6G Celicas Forums

Intro: I have changed my rotors to slotted rotors and now using ceramic brake pads because I suspected them to be better than my current setup. In the midst of all this, as some of you may recall, I had to get part numbers for 2 pins that connect to the horseshoe for the passenger side rear rotor. I got them and I installed them correctly by following the Haynes Manual. Now here's my problem....

It says how you adjust but using a screw driver on the "tension" gear like part that centers once you put your rotors on. I have noticed by adjusting this, I am able to get my rotor stuck in place, or able to slide it out, pending on which way I go (up or down). The book says to go all the way down and try to go 8 clicks up. When I did that, having new brake pads, there was a bit resistance on wheel movement. Is there supposed to be resistance? I dunno, so I freed it up a bit so it spins without a scraping sound.

Now tonight, I went out to the mountains because I was curious about my brakes. So I pulled the handbrake and I just gradually slow down, but no screech, even when I pull up all the way. I slam my brakes, and not so much a sudden stop, but better than what the handbrakes did. I am about to read up on ABS, as I do not know much about brakes, but I know my ABS module or motor or whatever is removed in my car, as the relays for ABS. I was wondering if that as an effect on the braking system, as when I applied the brakes, it kind of felt as if only the front were doing anything and not so much the rear. Now it is raining, so I am wondering if them being wet has any bit of impact.

I am barely learning engines, and I am eager to learn more about cars, so forgive me if my questions or statements sound n00bish. I just want to be able to have good brakes, and I am afraid to go beyond stock if I cannot understand or correct stock brakes.

"It says how you adjust but using a screw driver on the "tension" gear like part that centers once you put your rotors on. I have noticed by adjusting this, I am able to get my rotor stuck in place, or able to slide it out, pending on which way I go (up or down). The book says to go all the way down and try to go 8 clicks up. When I did that, having new brake pads, there was a bit resistance on wheel movement. Is there supposed to be resistance? I dunno, so I freed it up a bit so it spins without a scraping sound."

What you are adjusting is the parking brake shoes. There is supposed to be a small amount of resistance when turning the rotor by hand. Enough were you can turn it without much effort, and it stops when you stop turning it. Your hand brake should be around 3-5 clicks.

"Now tonight, I went out to the mountains because I was curious about my brakes. So I pulled the handbrake and I just gradually slow down, but no screech, even when I pull up all the way. I slam my brakes, and not so much a sudden stop, but better than what the handbrakes did. I am about to read up on ABS, as I do not know much about brakes, but I know my ABS module or motor or whatever is removed in my car, as the relays for ABS. I was wondering if that as an effect on the braking system, as when I applied the brakes, it kind of felt as if only the front were doing anything and not so much the rear. Now it is raining, so I am wondering if them being wet has any bit of impact."

You just installed your brakes so you need to break them in first. Also, I'm going to give you an answer as a Toyota Technician and not a boy racer. Your parking brake is not designed to stop your car while it is moving. The parking brake is designed to hold a vehicle in place, while the car is at a stop, nothing more. Did you remove the ABS relays yourself? All Celicas will have the relay box for the ABS, regardless of whether it came equipped with ABS or not. So just because you have missing ABS relays, does not mean your car has, or ever had ABS.

The front brakes are designed to do majority of the work during braking. That is why the front brake pads will wear faster than the rear pads, and also why front pads will be thicker than the rear when brand new.

you have a gt right? if so, then you have rear disc brakes and would have been adjusting the parking brake as derrick mentioned. if you have a st, they came with rear drums and would need to be adjusted to work as they were designed. derrick was also right as far as the front brakes doing a majority of the braking. the rear brakes are mainly to keep the car stable when braking and to keep the rear from lifting too much. if you have time tomorrow, give me a call, i don't go to work until 1pm. hopefully i can help walk you through stuff, about to go to bed.

yea the rears work only like 20% compared to the front. They are mainly for parking brakes.

Yep, I have a GT. So my car doesn't have ABS? I thought they came with it, but I see what you mean about that relay box. Perhaps it doesn't then.... Well I was on dirt one time, but I got the handbrake before to lock the tires a bit when I wanted to slide. My handle is 3-5 clicks, I learned how to adjust that, the clicks have nothing really to do with the mechanism of the rear shoes though of the rotors, it is only the travel of the stick that allows you to pull up without extra slack to assure that you do have them fully applied. I mean, we can make them 1 click and they should function the same, right? But if you say they are supposed to move with minimal travel, then I found where I made my mistake. If I went by the book, they can be rather stiff when I was turning them, but instead I said to myself "That's not right" and I freed it up more so they spun with a solid turn and taking my hand off. So I know what I have to do now. Thanks guys.

You CAN lock the rear wheels with the handbrake, but it is not designed to do that.



Yes it does . What do you think is causing your handbrake to stop at 3-5 clicks..

Huh? That's completely wrong. The ebrake shoes adjust exactly as he stated the Haynes manual said they do, by turning the adjuster wheel until the brakes are tight and then backing it up 8 clicks. He's trying to adjust his e-brakes, not the rear brakes themselves.

The 8 clicks thing isn't really so accurate I've found, as well. Tighten the wheel down until you can't rotate the wheel, then back it off 8 clicks and see where you're at. IIRC I had to back it off a few more after that. And yes, there should be some slight resistance when you try to spin the wheel by hand. Just slight though.

Ceramic pads are different than metallic or organic pads. The surface is harder, and they have a longer break-in period. I've got ceramic pads on all 4 of my wheels, and I like them quite well. Just allow some time for them to break in, and also remember that they take a little longer to warm up, so allow yourself a little extra room on cold mornings. I've been very happy with my ceramic pads, I'm pleased with the performance and VERY pleased to not have brake dust. They're definitely not as grabby as the other compounds though, but I don't tailgate ever so it's never been any kind of an issue for me. I've had a few oh sh*t moments where I've had to stop suddenly, and have not felt concerned or disappointed by their performance. (I don't have slotted or drilled rotors, either, just regular OEM style rotors from NAPA)

Yuh, When you get new brake pads they have to bed in to the shape of your disc rotors.

Not sure with drilled and slotted rotors, But usually when you get new brake pads the rotors should be machine skimmed/resurfaced (like a clutch)

See, I didn't know about brake pads being "broken in", I was just too excited to have my rotors and said to myself "This isn't right, why is there resistance?" but I see that it is ok with new out of the package pads. Well then.... I have some adjusting to do.

Yeah Derrick, but adjusting the clicks on the hand brakes are only the travel of how you pull it to a desired level is what I meant. Not that tightening down is really going to affect the back. Even the book says you want 3-5 clicks, but when you tighten it, you tighten to your desired level.

I asked my friend today too about on his prelude which is all discs. He says he can skid with his Ebrake too, so I want to fix this. I know I shouldn't skid to a hault, but to be able to have it affect my wheels to some degree would be nice for some winding road action. My slotted, powder coated rotors were only $150 shipped anyways. Not that I am made of money, but if I can go about 2-3 years before I have to replace them or something, I don't mind.

This post has been edited by Random_Stranger: Dec 11, 2009 - 9:33 PM

on a good note i finished up your DIY rear strut tower bar. i did it in gloss black with a clear coat. its not trd or cusco quality, but it serves its purpose and looks pretty decent. now we'll just have to get that puppy installed.