6G Celicas Forums

one step ahead of you. Now I can truely say this car is completely ghetto rigged

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 3, 2010 - 11:18 PM

this **** is happening to my car now at the moment.. it **** the bed and took soooo many cranks to get it runnin and when i got it running, it ideled lowww and when it was back to normal and gave it gas it gagged... we thinkk its the map sensor but we aint positive.. my codes came up as 24 and 31, one being a temp sensor and the other the map senor... cars in the shop now being looked at

wow that sucks man. Im not getting those codes (knock on wood) everything seems alright ATM, so i'll go drive out for gas.

***01/03/2010 10:12pm I think i found the problem. Fool around with every wire and part associated with the trouble code. Use a zip tie and a rubberband. Test drive, bridge TE1 and E1 terminals in diagnosis box and you get a continuous flashing CEL with key turned to ON. Continuous flashes means trouble gone!!! WTF!!!!!!

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 4, 2010 - 3:14 AM

then it may have just been a bad connection.

K that didnt solve the problem i just got lucky. with my new experiences now i have a better idea when the problem comes about.

Engine starts no problem when cold, but once the engine is warmed up that's when the idle drops and the car dies. After this I wasnt able to start the car again even with me fooling around with connections.

Now in my garage i warmed the car up then came back and gave the engine gas-------car doesnt stall
Gave it more revs are diff rpms to make sure that wasnt a fluke. This seems good.
Now coincidentally my dad touchs the oil pressure sensor and the car dies (no throttle given)
So i take out the sensor connector and shoot electronic cleaner (like brake cleaner but wont harm plastic)----Car starts (problem solved or a fluke?)
Well.......that was a fluke, car is running regular idle then a little gas was given and car dies. wtf?!?!?!
Car started right away again. My dad and I kept re-creating what we did to make the car die. No go car runs and didnt die out. So i turn off the car and call it a night.

Thoughts??? Next thing I should check is the igniter near the brake master cylinder on the firewall. Might have to drive out with Herosblade's igniter and drive in circles around the neighborhood until the car dies. Then carefully remove my igniter and install his. If the car starts and dont die Igniter is my problem (wont know till i try) If I still stall and die I'm lost

So would a faulty oil pressure sensor cause the car to shut off?? Also those 3 sensors at the end of the radiator hose, would they cause the car to shut off?? Other than that those were the only things my dad and I touched that caused the car to shut off at warmed temp.

k this morning the started the car and took a shower. came back down and the car was still running by itself at warm temp. i gave aboout 10-15 short 2500 revs and the last rev it died. i tried to start it back up but it wouldnt. so i waited 5 mins and tried again, 4th try it kinda started but i had to give gas (1500rpm worth) for the engine to stay alive for 5 secs. after that it wouldnt start.

changed igniter module, problem still exists its not throttle position sensor, idle air valve thing, or vac hoses. Its something electrical but i can find it. Still gettin hte code 12 checked distrib and connection, igniter and connection. what's left to check?? Last thing i know is ECU. help much??

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 9, 2010 - 1:42 AM

ya'll got mice and rats on them islands, check all the wiring.

wiring checked. now throwing code 14. checked connecter E5 pins 20 and 3 for IGT and IGF. those checked out. I'm not bothering with an ecu swap from Herosblade's car so either I find a good priced ecu (will be specific to my car) or the car will be parted and chopped. So you can start calling dibs on replacement parts cuz Herosblade got first dibs on lips.

This post has been edited by 808celica: Jan 9, 2010 - 4:24 PM

i want your clear door lights!!

I got dibs on the sides.

just use a tundra clear lens. search for my interior thread or search clear door lens and grab the p/n its way faster for oyu that way



sides were ghetto rigged and really damaged

anywho pin 20 and 3 on E5 connector was tested for ignition signal to the ecu. the IGT terminal isnt givng me 0.5-1v when igniter connector is removed and you "crank" the engine for no more than 2secs a time. also it must not read 0 or 5v on the IGT terminal. Problem isnt solved but I think I found my problem, the last option, ECU.

You getting an IS350? I hate those cars. They're quick, but too uncomfortable inside for a sporty luxury car. The back has no room. Might as well be a Celica, lol.

How much you want for the intake?

how much for the gt4 strut bar?

You're seriously going to part it out?

^^



Yes, I've bought a new ecu and still the problem exists.

Nooo don't part out and leave us!!! I will come down there and help you figure it all out .

did everything by the book. if it comes down to me pulling the motor just to get to something small im not game.

i'm telling you, its in the wiring. de pin the wires associated with the code from the ecu harness, pin in new wires (dealer sells pre-pinned leads i think) and run new wires all the way to the offending sensor/part.