6G Celicas Forums

Okay; so check this out;

it didn't happen first thing after the swap; but slowly emerged (within a week). quietly at first; but now it's getting really fcuking loud. I've already droped the tire and reallined the break/dust shield several times, (not the issue); then (remembering the D/S rotor conversion) i've swaped the pads arround (thinking they could be backwards), cleaned em (they had alot of debreis, but that may be unrelated) I've re-positioned the clips; i've remounted the tire a few times... (*NOTE: i have replaced the missing lugnuts the swap-shop fcuking lost...) yet this problem persists...

last though is that maybe there is insufficient grease in the hub boot where it hits the bearing?

here guys, listen for yourselfs!!

(only watch the first few seconds of this first one, afterwords, we're making our plan and my photographer was oblivious to the "end-video" key. enjoy our conversation... lol)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arIU_KJy6H4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1vdpGx6ZkQ

IDEAS?!?!

"This video is private."

I'd like to enjoy the conversation, but I can't.

sorry. fixed

let the repair resume

poorly lubricated muffler bearings

check the wheel bearing, it sounds like it could be a bad one. see to me, it sounds less like brake grinding and more like the creaking sound of metal on metal with alot of weight. i've heard that exact sound from bad wheel bearings before, but when they're that bad they make some bad sounds at regular driving speeds as well or are almost totally locked up. get the car up, shake the wheel around, check for play.

does it ONLY make the sound when braking or just whenever the car is in motion?

This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 4, 2010 - 7:39 AM

whenever the car is in motion. obviously you can hear it better when coasting. rolls just fine though. no play in hub. i've already checked that.

This post has been edited by D-Man: Feb 4, 2010 - 7:41 AM

any other sounds at higher speeds? roaring, rumbling, rythmic sounds? put the front wheels up and spin them with the engine and use a long handle like a mechanics stethoscope to listen to the hub, caliper, bracket, backing plate, knuckle, control arm, etc

again man, it's in revolution to the turning of the wheel. that's why my first thought was that the tire was mounted improperly, (witch it was, but that's fixed now) then thinking the rotor/break assy was off by a milimeter or so... break shield, ect ect ect.

i'm thinking it may be possible that rather the hub is insufficiently greased, or that this may be some tattle-tale of going bad (possibly due to reason number one). what do you think?!

it's getting worse day to day.

sadly the only way to look at the wheel bearing is to take things apart, its not a light task.

does the car make that sound with the wheel in the air?

The way i would tackle this is to take off the wheel, take off the caliper, take off the brake rotor and let the engine spin the wheel in the air. If you still hear squeeking, then its the wheel bearing for sure.

If the sound disapears then its your brakes assembly that is rubiing something.

well it's definitely giving off the tattle tale signs of the bearings not being properly packed when installed. it's now making a large squealing noise at regular driving speeds, and it's progressed from nonexistent to extreme within a few weeks. so i'll go ahead and run that test by removing the wheel; breaks; and rotors; but otherwise... i fear the worst here. damnit.

do we got a how to on how to PROPERLY pack and load the bearings around here? thanks guys!!

you were talking to your girl (beyotch?) so nicely in that im getting impatient but i dont wanna be in the dog house sort of way lol!!!


anywho, that sounds more like a creaking noise rather than grinding, i would say wheel bearing, but when mine was bad it sounded more like grinding.... it cant be anything else but something on the inside of hub since u checked everything else in the area

lol@ you. i know no doghouse.

yeah we'll be doing this today, does anyone have a breakdown of the hub/bearing assy? points to know as i tackle this?

they should come pre-lubed and are pressed into the knuckle. if the axle nut was not torqued correctly for some reason then you can have this happen as well. if it is the bearing then you'll just need a new one, be sure though to check it before you install it because i've seen some cheapy bearings come without grease or without enough grease. you'll want a high pressure high temp grease to lube them up with, the stuff that looks like it should have a flavor (because of its color).

well; turns out that my bearing were totaly molested....

see; first i asked my mechanic supervisor:


and she said every thing was way outta whack. she pointed this out to me:



EWWWWWWwwwwww!!!

so; i busted everything out; poped each ball out of the houseing and completely rebuilt/cleaned/and refurbished the whole damn thing!!







note the inside of the hub. compare the shiny side to the dirty side~


packed bearings and hub with high preform grease and replace~









runs like a charm now


i've got to get all the houston members over here one day; we need to scrub all this 11-16 year old dirt and crap outta all of our bearings. i noticed a large difference in performance with this!!


thanks guys~


another gemlin slain!!




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good work, but...and i'm sorry but theres a but to this, but you'll probably have issues with that bearing again in the not so distant future and you'll need to replace it, but for now you should be good to go

it's all good. i'm sure they will be needing it soon; but getting all the dirt and sh!t outta it was a help for sure! it was really gritty (sand/dust) in between the bearings so i'm sure this'll help much for now. besides; i'm intending on doing both sides w/new bearings next week (payday)

surprisingly easy to do too... i was always under the impression that would've been hard. lol

taking them apart like that is easy, problem is you have to replace not just the balls but the races as well, one is pressed onto the hub shaft and the other into the knuckle itself. it has to be pressed out and the new one pressed into the knuckle and the hub pressed into the new bearing, the old race can be taken off by cutting a slit into it with a grinding wheel and then using a hammer and chisel to split it, it'll come right off.

might i add good buddy, that you SHOULD NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE get your new bearings from auto zone!!!! they will sell you some from some company called motor city... ask illneversellmyceli they WILL eventually wear out.... go oem replacement!

Dont bash autozone; The price war between autopart stores force them to carry a line of cheapest of the cheap parts. Autozone sells timken bearings which is a well known bearing/seal manufactures.

IMO its OEM or timken for seals/bearings. Dont buy other off branded stuff even though they may be re branded parts, they lack the standards and specifications as OEM/timken.