6G Celicas Forums

Im new to the whole coilover suspension. And wanting to have a few questions answered before i go ahead and install them.
1. Can i measure a drop from a stock strut and spring. Putting them side by side and adjusting the coilover 2" higher from the hub mount. Tho i was thinking spring would compress differently giving off a differnt ride height already than the coilover as its softer.
Whats the easiest way to know how much im dropping without dropping the car on the coilover and looking at it. Then raising it back up. Take off the hub/rotor/mount and adjusting accordingly.

2. Im almost certain im not suppose to play with the spring height andonly the hub/rotor/mount height (where the rotor connects on). Is this right?
Eg. In this pic the person is adjusting the spring height. In the manual it tells me do not, but i see countless pics of people doing so.


And only adjust from where his left hand is?


3. How certain will i know if i have gotten the right settings, in a scenario where i go over a pothole in the road and the
wheel hits the wheel arch and ****s it up?

4. Should i get the right ride height on one side first eg. f&r of left first. And match it up with the right? or just raise the rear, do both lower it and do the front?

5. Anything i miss that i should know about before installing on the weekend please let me know.

This post has been edited by whatthe: Feb 2, 2010 - 9:53 AM

you need to count threads from bottom till the perches and make sure it is equal from LEFT to RIGHT (so your car does not sit crocked)
As for the right settings i would turn the dampeners all the way hard then probably turn them back soft ~5 clicks and work from there depending on your preferences.

1) you can't compare the stock stuff to the aftermarket stuff. Normally the aftermarket stuff comes with a manual of some sort which gives you a starting point. After that you'll have to install, wheels on and sit it on the ground to know if its the ride height you are looking for. To adjust all you need to do is jack up the car (you can leave the wheels on) and spin the perches up/down accordingly.

2) you adjust height via the perches like in the picture. putting your hand on the actual spring and spinning will do nothing. (you move the perches (bottom gold bits) up and down to adjust the ride height)

3) test and tune

4) you adjust ride height to match left to right. Front and back are more than likely going to be different settings.

5) take your time, use lots of lube!


V-----his pictures help make good sense

This post has been edited by playr158: Feb 2, 2010 - 11:29 AM

im sure someone can answer you better than me, but, here i go
1- where his right hand is, you just want to squeez the spring a little bit (so its not loose)(and you dant want to change the spring load by lowering or raising the suspension)
2- you install the coilover, notice that they are not the same height as the stock one ( for the height, i just guested it and adjust after)

3- make sure that both front are the same height (rear too)

4- put your mags on and put your car on the floor (the more even the floor is the bether it is)
5- mesure how much you want to raise it or lower it
6- when you want to change the ride height, you dont need to desassamble the hub and every thing
you just need to get your wheel off
7- first thing you want to do is loosen the bottom ring (a lot)(raise her a inch or two)

8- if you want to lower it, take the 'key', put it on the top ring and 'unscrew' it
(the tread will 'enter' in the hub and this will lower the car)
(when you work with the top two ring, you always want them to work against the other one, since you dont want to change the load on the spring)
(you will understand this part when you will do it )

9- if you want to raise it, take the 'bottom top ring' and 'screw it'

10- thighten the bottom ring and make sure that both front are the same height (and both rear)
11- put your wheels back and if it sit the height you want.......






....... LOWER IT MORE
12- ANJOY

P.S. i am no professionnal and this is what i learned by my self (im sure the're might have thing i could of do better)

P.S.2 english is not my first langage

Im new to the whole coilover suspension. And wanting to have a few questions answered before i go ahead and install them.
1. Can i measure a drop from a stock strut and spring. Putting them side by side and adjusting the coilover 2" higher from the hub mount. Tho i was thinking spring would compress differently giving off a differnt ride height already than the coilover as its softer.
Whats the easiest way to know how much im dropping without dropping the car on the coilover and looking at it. Then raising it back up. Take off the hub/rotor/mount and adjusting accordingly.
Not sure never checked but you can tell by your old height measurement and your new height. for example you had a two inch gap in your old sus and now your gap is 1 inch, you just dropped it one in. thats an example.

2. Im almost certain im not suppose to play with the spring height andonly the hub/rotor/mount height (where the rotor connects on). Is this right?
Eg. In this pic the person is adjusting the spring height. In the manual it tells me do not, but i see countless pics of people doing so.

You never touch the spring load adjustment unless thats what you want and know what you are doing. You can just use the damper control for the stiffness or softness.

And only adjust from where his left hand is?


3. How certain will i know if i have gotten the right settings, in a scenario where i go over a pothole in the road and the
wheel hits the wheel arch and ****s it up?
You have to drive and feel for it yourself, from there you adjust the fronts and rears according to your preference.

4. Should i get the right ride height on one side first eg. f&r of left first. And match it up with the right? or just raise the rear, do both lower it and do the front?
Suspension always goes by pairs like tires, do the fronts and then the rears or vice versa. You won't know whats going on to the height by doing one side. They are like tires change the front tires together. not one back and one front.

5. Anything i miss that i should know about before installing on the weekend please let me know.

did it by myself but got a sore back but if you can let me know, i noticed on mine the brake bracket was backwards and I had to bend it in order for it to reach. I am certain its not the wrong side because the end links only go in one way and the rears assys are not interchangeable like the fronts.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Feb 2, 2010 - 10:33 PM

Umm is there something wrong with my top? Its on a massive angle. And i cant seem to adjust it, or is this faulty?



With the camber plate off.

its suppose to be able to adjust. I recall some kits need to be maintained first before installing, I dont remember if it is lubricating it. Mine was moveable.

YOU HAVE TO RUN ON THE LOWEST SETTING POSSIBLE!!!!! OR ELSE.........

damn skippy. Mine is about 1/4 inch from resting on the back of my knuckle.



basically expect this to happen: You will set it all up, put all wheels back, take it off the jacks, look at it and go "ffffuuuuuuuuuu........." it isn't low enough. Then you repeat the whole thing about 3 times till you are somewhat happy. Then you realize how huge the celica fenders are and you can't make 17s look the way you want without the bitch dragging on the ground and looking dook. So you then need to order some 18s or 19s (if you are smart) and rinse and repeat all over again.

This post has been edited by Harold_Fastwaker: Feb 5, 2010 - 2:50 AM

Dont worry got it. Works a charm. Heres the forecast for tomorrow.
"Saturday Rain periods, moderate to heavy at times, and a few thunderstorms. Humid. Light to moderate southeast winds tending east to northeast."

Looks like it will be next weekend for the install. Sigh.

Just a couple quick tips

1. The best way to make sure your left to right is equal without having to take the time to count the threads is using a Vernier Caliper.

2. The adjustment for the base of the spring is for spring rate adjustment (adjust how much the spring will compress) tighten the spring for less bound/rebound (up and down movement)
3. The mounting points are on a ball joint to allow for proper alignment.
4. If you get an alignment at your typical tire place make sure there system can handle a car thats lowered other wise you will have worse alignment then before due to many alignment machine use a factory preset.

i just used a measuring tape...its close enough as well but above is more accurate.