 Manual to Power Windows/Locks Conversion, REALLY CLOSE NOW! Need help, see pg 5 |
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 Feb 26, 2010 - 11:01 PM
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 Enthusiast  Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%)  |
QUOTE (bmj67 @ Feb 26, 2010 - 5:00 PM)  the part you are missing is a blue box behind the dash most likely it controls the locking setup Read my post! QUOTE I've fabricated a harness from the donor car's dash harness to connect the door harnesses to the door control relay (DCM). DCM is the blue box. This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 27, 2010 - 7:46 PM --------------------  |
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Feb 26, 2010 - 11:05 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Nov 25, '08 From dillsburg pennsylvania united states Currently Offline Reputation: 12 (100%) |
QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Feb 27, 2010 - 12:01 AM) QUOTE (bmj67 @ Feb 26, 2010 - 5:00 PM) the part you are missing is a blue box behind the dash most likely it controls the locking setup Uh, yeah, that must be it. hahah and i am supplying your part. lol. i like what ur doing very complex and brainyyy. nicceeeee!!!  good luckkkNOT. Read my post! QUOTE I've fabricated a harness from the donor car's dash harness to connect the door harnesses to the door control relay (DCM). DCM is the blue box. --------------------  those with golf balls golf those with real balls race |
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Feb 27, 2010 - 1:59 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
i didnt read your whole post and didnt know what the box was called. go wire by wire and check that they match the specs below from the bgb
D10, D11 DOOR COURTESY SW LH, RH 1–GROUND :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR OPEN D13, D14 DOOR KEY LOCK AND UNLOCK SW LH, RH 1–2 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER UNLOCKED WITH THE KEY 3–2 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER LOCKED WITH THE KEY D13, D14 DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW LH, RH 4–6 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW AT UNLOCK POSITION U 1 UNLOCK WARNING SW 2–1 :CLOSED WITH THE IGNITION KEY IN THE CYLINDER D 7 DOOR LOCK CONTROL RELAY 11–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK CONTROL SW AT UNLOCK POSITION 10–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK CONTROL SW AT LOCK POSITION 1–GROUND :APPROX. 12 VOLTS WITH THE IGNITION SW AT ON POSITION 7–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE IGNITION KEY IN THE CYLINDER 6–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE LH DOOR AT UNLOCK POSITION 5–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE RH DOOR AT UNLOCK POSITION 9–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW LH AT UNLOCK POSITION 13–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW RH AT UNLOCK POSITION 12–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW AT LOCK POSITION 16–GROUND:ALWAYS CONTINUOUS 8–GROUND :ALWAYS APPROX. 12 VOLTS This post has been edited by bmj67: Feb 27, 2010 - 2:07 AM |
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Feb 27, 2010 - 7:39 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
QUOTE (TerBeau @ Feb 26, 2010 - 8:05 PM) hahah and i am supplying your part. lol. i like what ur doing very complex and brainyyy. nicceeeee!!! good luckkkYou're not really supplying my part, I have one, you're supplying the backup one in the even I blow the first one out, or so I can use it as the sacrificial lamb and take it apart to figure out what's going on inside. 
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Feb 27, 2010 - 7:45 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
QUOTE (bmj67 @ Feb 26, 2010 - 10:59 PM) i didnt read your whole post and didnt know what the box was called. go wire by wire and check that they match the specs below from the bgb D10, D11 DOOR COURTESY SW LH, RH 1–GROUND :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR OPEN D13, D14 DOOR KEY LOCK AND UNLOCK SW LH, RH 1–2 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER UNLOCKED WITH THE KEY 3–2 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK CYLINDER LOCKED WITH THE KEY D13, D14 DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW LH, RH 4–6 :CLOSED WITH THE DOOR LOCK MOTOR AND DOOR UNLOCK DETECTION SW AT UNLOCK POSITION U 1 UNLOCK WARNING SW 2–1 :CLOSED WITH THE IGNITION KEY IN THE CYLINDER D 7 DOOR LOCK CONTROL RELAY 11–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK CONTROL SW AT UNLOCK POSITION 10–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK CONTROL SW AT LOCK POSITION 1–GROUND :APPROX. 12 VOLTS WITH THE IGNITION SW AT ON POSITION 7–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE IGNITION KEY IN THE CYLINDER 6–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE LH DOOR AT UNLOCK POSITION 5–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE RH DOOR AT UNLOCK POSITION 9–GROUND :CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW LH AT UNLOCK POSITION 13–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW RH AT UNLOCK POSITION 12–GROUND:CONTINUOUS WITH THE DOOR LOCK KEY SW AT LOCK POSITION 16–GROUND:ALWAYS CONTINUOUS 8–GROUND :ALWAYS APPROX. 12 VOLTS I know you didn't read the whole thing, sorry, I didn't mean to bite your head off.  I'm just super frustrated with this project and need someone who can comb through what I posted above, interpret it, and tell me where I missed. I know it's a lot I'm asking, and time consuming. I just figured hey, it can't hurt to ask.I have that info you posted above, but there's 2 problems... one is that that info presumes the car came equipped w/power windows/locks. Since mine didn't, my dash harness does not accommodate the power window equipped door harness, so I've basically hacked up the donor car door harness to fabricate a new harness to connect the doors to the DCM. Basically I took the end that the door harness would've connected to, and cut them off. Took the end that connects to the DCM, and cut it off. Took those three crazy monster legs and joined them together. The other problem is that ^ that, above, that you posted, is basically greek to me. Were it not greek, would it still even apply necessarily, since I'm rigging up this harness all crazy-like? -------------------- |
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Feb 27, 2010 - 10:17 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 23, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 24 (100%) |
then numbers are the pin number from the dcm setup if you look at the wiring diagram it will show the pin number and the wire coming off the box. so for example 8–GROUND :ALWAYS APPROX. 12 VOLTS you set the multimeter to voltage put one lead on the wire from pin 8 and one to ground and you should get 12 volts. it might be easier for you to troubleshoot if you work one side at a time so start on the ds and try to get it working then worry about the ps
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Mar 2, 2010 - 7:53 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I actually only have the driver's side installed, I've left the passenger side with the manual crank so that I'd at least have one window that went up and down!
bumping this for a certain snowed-in brainiac who I know will secretly like the challenge.
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Mar 2, 2010 - 8:23 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
and actually, for that matter, I'll throw this out to the crazy smart cali man with the nice fast doggies.
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Mar 3, 2010 - 1:15 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
yikes! i hate messing with wires. withoug being there there isnt much help i can do.
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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Mar 4, 2010 - 6:04 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
*cough*bump*cough
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Mar 4, 2010 - 7:01 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Apr 28, '09 From York pa Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
how is the conversion going i was thinking about doing it but looks painful
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Mar 4, 2010 - 7:55 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Feb 25, 2010 - 11:27 PM) Bringing this back from the dead in hopes that someone who knows what they're looking at sees this and can help. Long story short, I've fabricated a harness from the donor car's dash harness to connect the door harnesses to the door control relay (DCM). It's pretty straight forward, but I'm not getting power to the motor and I'm not sure what I'm missing here. Here's my connections, I'll base it on the pinout of the connector from the DCM as the "center" of the "tree": 1. RED/BLUE : RED/BLUE of diode 2. RED/YEL : to nothing. Diagram says "LEFT DOOR COURTESY SWITCH" ? Is this to unlock the door/s from the key? 3. BLU/RED : BLU/RED wires off p/s and d/s door harnesses (locks) - the thicker of the two blu/red 4. BLU/WH : BLU/WH d/s door harness 5. GRN/YEL : GRN/YEL d/s door harness 6. GRN : GRN p/s door harness 7. YEL : nothing. "UNLOCK WARNING SWITHCH" I have no idea what this is or where it goes. Or if I have this switch. 8. WHT/BLU : positive lead off the battery 9. GRY : GRY p/s door harness 10. BLU/BLK : BLU/BLK of p/s and d/s door harnesses 11. BLU : BLU of p/s and d/s door harnesses 12. BLU/ORG : BLU/ORG of p/s and d/s door harnesses 13. BLU/RED : BLU/RED d/s door harness (the thinner blu/red of the two) 14. RED/GRN : "DOOR COURTESY SWITCH RH" I have no idea what this connects to 15. BLU/YEL : BLU/YEL off the diode 16. WHT/BLK : ground Leftover wires off the driver's side door harness: GRN/WHT : GRN/WHT on p/s door harness RED/BLU : RED/BLU on p/s door harness WHT/GRN : WHT/GRN on p/s door harness, and then to Power Main Relay leg 3 WHT/BLK : Ground (but it's skinny - seems to skinny to be the only ground for the master switch?) Result: DCM clicks when I use any of the switches, windows OR locks. But nothing else happens, no locks, no window up or down. WHAT AM I MISSING!?! -------------------- |
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Mar 4, 2010 - 8:19 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
I'm not sure where you really are with the wiring of all of this, but I'm sure I can probably answer some specific questions.
QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Mar 4, 2010 - 7:55 PM) QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Feb 25, 2010 - 11:27 PM) Bringing this back from the dead in hopes that someone who knows what they're looking at sees this and can help. Long story short, I've fabricated a harness from the donor car's dash harness to connect the door harnesses to the door control relay (DCM). It's pretty straight forward, but I'm not getting power to the motor and I'm not sure what I'm missing here. Here's my connections, I'll base it on the pinout of the connector from the DCM as the "center" of the "tree": 1. RED/BLUE : RED/BLUE of diode You're using a relay before the diode there right ? 2. RED/YEL : to nothing. Diagram says "LEFT DOOR COURTESY SWITCH" ? Is this to unlock the door/s from the key? no. It turns off the power to the windows when the door is open and car is off 3. BLU/RED : BLU/RED wires off p/s and d/s door harnesses (locks) - the thicker of the two blu/red 4. BLU/WH : BLU/WH d/s door harness 5. GRN/YEL : GRN/YEL d/s door harness 6. GRN : GRN p/s door harness 7. YEL : nothing. "UNLOCK WARNING SWITHCH" I have no idea what this is or where it goes. Or if I have this switch. don't worry about that one, it just makes the noise if the key is in the ignition and the door is open. 8. WHT/BLU : positive lead off the battery 9. GRY : GRY p/s door harness 10. BLU/BLK : BLU/BLK of p/s and d/s door harnesses 11. BLU : BLU of p/s and d/s door harnesses 12. BLU/ORG : BLU/ORG of p/s and d/s door harnesses 13. BLU/RED : BLU/RED d/s door harness (the thinner blu/red of the two) 14. RED/GRN : "DOOR COURTESY SWITCH RH" I have no idea what this connects to same as the other, no work when door opens car is off 15. BLU/YEL : BLU/YEL off the diode 16. WHT/BLK : ground Leftover wires off the driver's side door harness: GRN/WHT : GRN/WHT on p/s door harness RED/BLU : RED/BLU on p/s door harness WHT/GRN : WHT/GRN on p/s door harness, and then to Power Main Relay leg 3 WHT/BLK : Ground (but it's skinny - seems to skinny to be the only ground for the master switch?) you need all the pass side wires connected for the windows to work, they complete the circuit. Result: DCM clicks when I use any of the switches, windows OR locks. But nothing else happens, no locks, no window up or down. WHAT AM I MISSING!?! I assume everything is wired just like the diagrams right ? do you have the OEM wiring diagrams ? I can post everything up if you want. -------------------- |
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Mar 4, 2010 - 11:46 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Yes, it's wired like the diagrams (I have them, thank you)
So I wondered if I needed the passenger side to be wired in as well, and I actually had brought the p/s door harness out to the car, plugged in one end to the motor, the other to the p/s end of the harness I fabbed up, and got the same result. But knowing now that the p/s MUST be there definitely gets me one step closer, at least while trouble shooting it! Question (and excuse my ignorance, again, I'm just completely mental when it comes to electrical stuff): you asked if I'm using a relay before the diode. Uh... how do I know if it's before or after the diode? I have the red/blue of the door harness connected to the red/blue of the diode; IIRC the blue/yellow goes to one leg of the relay. I realized I forgot to post my connections to the relay. I don't remember off hand which goes to which leg, but I have it in the EWGs. Relay: one leg gets the white/green wires off the door harness and off the DCM; one leg gets the pos lead off the battery, one gets the ground off the chassis, and one gets the blue/yellow off the door harness and off the DCM. Should it be the red/blue instead of the blue/yellow to the power main relay? -------------------- |
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Mar 5, 2010 - 8:56 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
bump?
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Mar 7, 2010 - 5:57 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Mar 15, '07 From Tennessee Currently Offline Reputation: 52 (100%) |
the easier part will be just to get this harness...
 sorry i cant help.. -------------------- Learned a lot in 10 years... I hardly log in anymore, last login Today Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOL
If you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in 2grfe Swapped... Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here... A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within. @llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore. |
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Mar 8, 2010 - 2:16 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
QUOTE (njccmd2002 @ Mar 7, 2010 - 2:57 AM) the easier part will be just to get this harness... sorry i cant help.. I have the dash harness from the donor car, it's what I used to fab the "bridge" harness from the door to the blue box. I cut off the part of the harness that connected to the blue box, cut off the part of the harness that runs to the JB where the door harness should have plugged in to on botht the d/s and p/s, and then figured out which wire went to which part of the blue box and soldered the 3 parts together. There's a couple of reasons I didn't just swap out the dash harness all together to begin with, 1 being that it came out of an automatic, which concerned me a bit, another that IIRC the donor car is OBDII and mine is not, again, a compatibility/electrical gremlin concern and 3, that the idea of ripping out the dash was just not so appealing to me 
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Mar 8, 2010 - 7:13 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
QUOTE (GriffGirl @ Mar 4, 2010 - 8:46 PM) Yes, it's wired like the diagrams (I have them, thank you) So I wondered if I needed the passenger side to be wired in as well, and I actually had brought the p/s door harness out to the car, plugged in one end to the motor, the other to the p/s end of the harness I fabbed up, and got the same result. But knowing now that the p/s MUST be there definitely gets me one step closer, at least while trouble shooting it! Question (and excuse my ignorance, again, I'm just completely mental when it comes to electrical stuff): you asked if I'm using a relay before the diode. Uh... how do I know if it's before or after the diode? I have the red/blue of the door harness connected to the red/blue of the diode; IIRC the blue/yellow goes to one leg of the relay. I realized I forgot to post my connections to the relay. I don't remember off hand which goes to which leg, but I have it in the EWGs. Relay: one leg gets the white/green wires off the door harness and off the DCM; one leg gets the pos lead off the battery, one gets the ground off the chassis, and one gets the blue/yellow off the door harness and off the DCM. Should it be the red/blue instead of the blue/yellow to the power main relay? So, back to that. Anyone have any suggestions? -------------------- |
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Mar 9, 2010 - 11:23 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Mar 3, '04 From Portsmouth, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
Should be both. Looks like pin 1 RED/BLU goes to the diode then BLU/YEL out of the diode connects to pin 15 BLU/YEL before going to pin 1 of the power main relay.
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Mar 9, 2010 - 12:08 PM
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 Enthusiast Joined Sep 30, '02 From Washington Spokane / Coeur D' Alene Idaho Currently Offline Reputation: 11 (100%) |
once i dig into my blue car ill take a couple pics of my harness
-------------------- yea your 3sgte is cool but ill stick to my 7agte
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