6G Celicas Forums

Just purchased a 96 convertible with 138,000 miles and ride from the rear is pretty awful (harsh and loud, car jiggles over bumps) so I am thinking of replacing the struts. I have never done this before. What is involved? Do I need a spring compressor? Do I need additional parts other than the struts (which are amazingly cheap Any tutorials out there? Thanks

If you're just replacing the struts with an aftermarket replacement yet not changing the spring, you don't need a spring compressor. Just makes sure you don't point the assembly at anything vital when you take off the top nut, it won't go far. As for tools, an impact wrench is handy, along with several socket wrenches and an allen key for the end links. Some WD40 or the like is also recommended.

The strut itself separates from the hub by two bolts, and then the assembly comes off from the body by three bolts in the trunk on top of the strut towers. The end links come off with a lot of WD-40 and an allen key and wrench. The brake line comes off with a simple bolt.

Considering your mileage, you will probably want to replace your boots and you should also look at the condition of your strut mounts.

Take a look at this for reference.

Word of advice, there is an arrow on your OEM top mount which indicates proper alignment in accordance with the strut. Make sure you align this well or else you'll get a grinding/metal-on-metal clicking sound.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Mar 30, 2010 - 10:58 PM

Hi there, welcome to the Celica world. Are you planning on the entire strut assembly, or just the shock? The removal and installation is pretty straight forward if you just buy the entire strut assembly. On the convertible, you are going to need to do some work from the back seat. There is going to be a vinyl type of material in the back where the convertible top folds into when you have the top down. So with the convertible top closed, you want to go back there, and move the vinyl covering out if the way. I believe that there are a few 10mm bolts holding it in place. What you are trying to get to is the top of the strut mounts. They will have 3 bolts each (total of 6). I would remove these bolts last, but would at least make them visible first, because your hands are most likely going to be really really dirty after you do all the work underneath.

So when you get the wheel off, there are 3 main parts you'll need to remove to get the strut out.. Main part is the 2 large bolts at the bottom of the strut, very easy to spot. You will also need to remove the brake line bracket which is a 10mm bolt. One of the potentially hardest parts is removing the swaybar endlinks if you have never done so before. They can rust over time and make things difficult. You are going to need an allen/hex wrench, and a 14mm wrench. You will need to use the allen/hex wrench to hold the center of the endlink still, while you take your 14mm wrench and turn the nut. After that is all done, now would be a good time for someone to hold the strut assembly, keeping it from falling, while another person removes the 3 bolts on top that we discussed earlier. The rear struts should then be able to be removed.

For safety purposes, I can only recommend that you get a spring compressor. Sure you can do it without one, but I wouldn't want you to hurt yourself. So at this point, just swap over the spring, and top mounts or any other parts you don't have on your new struts, and you'll be good to go. Grease any parts that make contact with another, such as the top and bottom of the spring, and the top mounts to help control noise.

When you got your new assembly together, it's just as simple as reversing the steps.

I second that, use a springs compressor.

Also the top bolt is horrible to get undone as it just turns the shock, even if you put vice grips on it and turn it, they usually just slip so for that part you may need to use a rattle gun, before I owned a rattle gun I couldn't get it undone so I just took it to a shop and asked them to do it, when I've done shocks since its just made the job so much easier and quicker.

I love this forum already! Thanks
Can you give me the part number for the strut mount. I have studied the diagram but I am not sure which part specifically this refers to. Thanks!

Rear
R 48071 L 48072

Front
R 48603 L 48609

Also might be worth replacing bump stops, mine completely disintegrated.

Wow! What an easy job. (At least to remove. I need to order new ones tomorrow.) No need for a spring compressor. My bumper stops were fine, but I need new boots. I have yet to find boots without the stops so I guess I get new stops as well.

The struts I pulled out are stamped Toyota so they may be original equipment. I won't be able to drive it for awhile as I decided to put a new top on while I was working on it. Wish me luck with that!

what everyone said was great info. I'd recommend using spring compressors, but that's up to you ultimately.

I see you are in Colorado, ... If the car saw a lot of road salt I think the endlinks get rusted to the point where removal with the allen key does not work, try a vise grip around the rubber boot if that happens and think about replacing them if necessary.

Good luck.