6G Celicas Forums

Woot!

ok guys.. this is buy week lol..

So I've looked through my own thread again and again.. and other threads to see if people have had similar issues with me. Right now, the car starts up, but seems to lose power as I press the gas. Once the car is warmed up, I can rev the car up to 4,000 rpm but then the car looses power and sputters down between 1 and 2000 rpm unstable. Then, the car begins to make a crying noise as it gets to lower and lower rpms, before finally dying completely. Another thing to note is that the alternator is either dead or not working properly. I'm not so certain it's dead because Jim told me he checked the alternator before he sent me the motor.

Now, recalling what lagos said earlier:



I don't think I did this, and it might be possible this ground wire works with the alternator in terms of it being functional. If this ground wire isn't bolted on, would the car even start up? The only wiring that has not been done is the IC and IC wiring. I want to go either FMIC or a a2a TMIC as I think those intercoolers will be less maintenance. With that, I was wondering how the car would detect those different intercooler setups and allow boost. Because when no intercooler is detected I know the ECU turns off boost.

The parts I am going to order from toyotapartszone are:

VALVE ASSY, AIR CONTROL part # 17630-70020
2 hoses, part # 17342B

I'm going to get the passenger side axle from advanced auto parts. As for the transmission, I just dont see how it could be dead. When the car edged the pole it didnt even damage the front bumper and I don't have the crash bar on there.. so I how could that cause the transmission to go bad? So im going to buy these parts this week and I will continue to research this issues and hopefully have the answer to get this thing running.

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: Feb 21, 2010 - 1:33 PM

i'm going with the WRC 3rd rev 3S-GTE w/ E-153 LSD.... inner axles from a MR-2, outers from an st185, aftermarket axle cages (not sure what brand yet) due to the fact that i thoroughly enjoy shift-lock technique, st185 hubs, either the prolite or streetlite from ACT for a flywheel, and havn't decided on a clutch either.. either the twin-plate Exedy, or the HDG6, maybe XTG6, both from ACT.... then i'm going to up the PSI on the turbo, probably only to 10 at that point though....

that's what i have planned for phase-I.... hopefully the engine will be on it's way within a week...

He guys......... am the new owner of this trouble car........... and i would really apreciate the help
here is an update.........
1.Changed the transmission, put in the passenger side (correctly, it was not put in all the way, that's why it was not moving)...
2.Changing shifter cables... thats why it was not going in to gear
3. Installed, cooling fan
4. Replaced broken sensor that goes under the powersteering pump.

I still have a horribel vacuum leak.......
It does not rev pas 2K rpm

Here is a video of what it does
please let me know if you have any ideas of what could be wrong

Thank you in advance

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbyxY8m4SA8

We pulled some codes from the ecu the 1st time it was
1 , 12, 13, 14
After about an hour ago we unplugged the battery and did it again and different ones shows (we disconected the tps, we thought that might be the problem) codes where
12, 24 , 34, 35, 41.
And for the 3rd time we plugged the tps and reseted the ecu......
the codes where
35, 41

Good Good Good work man!! Im soo glad I sold it to you.. I'm sorry I could reply after I told you about the senor thing.. i was driving for the whole day basically.. So its still having a rough idle after putting in the new sensor????? geezus man.. that's crazy.. It could be possible it's a wiring thing then.. I'm gonna pm Batman and I'm sure manny can help with it also.. he's doing the swap as we speak.. give me a txt today also man.. I wont be as busy today.. you can call if you want also.

41 is the tps, and there is no code 35.

Thanks for the help guys, I will work on the car today.......

This is what a member from Celicatech is telling me... which sound pretty resonable so am going to check that too

"12,13,14 are all IGN related. - Check your connection at the distributor plug.

35 Turbocharger, excessive pressure. - Make sure your wastegate lines and the one going to the TVSV are in fact connected and do not have any leaks or breaks.

41 TPS - Did you make sure to use a set of feeler gauges when setting it along with your multimeter?
^^This can easily be done with the vehicle not running, but in the "ON" position. "


But I think the wiring is not right... ill show you why in a bit

the vac noise, is it coming from the charcoal canister ? is that plugged ?

From what I remember, those wires should just be re taped together.. When I was doing the swap.. a friend of mine snipped the wires in error.

This post has been edited by SlvrCelica09: May 4, 2010 - 1:28 PM

this is where the noise is coming from
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ngfqEhIOn8

well....... I took out all the spark plugs... they where flooded with fuel....... and one had some oil.. clean them and put them back on.... same thing...
Check for spark on the spark plugs... Good
Beside the wiring ........ am really out of ideas.......
help pls

there should be a hose that runs from that canister, to the back of the intercooler.
its a puke tank for it.

OK i will look for it.........thanks!

Anytime a car wont rev past a certain rpm in neutral, then its caused by an ignition related issue. Make sure the harness plug is connected to the back of the distributor, and verify that the car is using the correct igniter for the swap (often times people will try to use incorrect igniters because they didn't get the original one with their engine set). If both of those check out, go buy a new cap and rotor from toyota. Ive seen swaps not want to rev because of an old cap/rotor.

ps. whoever did the wiring needs to stay away from trying to wire cars. It would be a good idea to address that mess before it starts a fire in your fuse box.

This post has been edited by lagos: May 4, 2010 - 7:06 PM

The igniter is,

124
131300-1343


I checked the connection for the distributor and its seems to be ok.......

Please let me know if i have the correct igniter



PS..... I no longer get codes, 11-12-13
Only 35, 41

can the tps from gen 2 be use for the 3rd gen?

Probably, but you dont need to install a new one. Most of the time they just need to be adjusted. You can easily test if the tps is your problem by disconnecting it. The car will run without it, and if your problems go away, then you know thats what it was.