6G Celicas Forums

Pretty sure I found the problem...

I drove home today, same issues as stated in previous posts, lifted the hood and heard a buzzing noise I never heard before....It sounded like it was near the throttle body, I just trying to find it, and it turned out to be this thing.



.it had 2 lines coming from it, and a harness connector, and was mounted right above the firewall, one line going to the top of the intake manifold, the other seemed to be the bottom of the intake manifold. When removing it, the lines were fused together with the plastic, and just shattered inside the line...so need new lines, and whatever the hell that thing is. If it is the IAC, anyone have one of these laying around...cause they aren't cheap, and special order from Autozone or the simliar.

Side Note: Does anyone know what the hell that is? I cannot find it by part number, and from I've read on sites its saying it a A/C idle up valve, but searching for that at a parts store doesn't show anything...

I think its the vacuum solenoid valve

This post has been edited by rave2n: Mar 24, 2010 - 6:01 PM

Finally found it. Its not for sale at any local joint.

http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~...8691-12180.html

Thats for anyone looking for it, cause it was a major pain in the ass to find. Ending up using Toyodiy.com or something like that, and searching for idle up and there she is. Took the part number and googled...hopefully they can get it here soon.

rave2n--
I gotta hand it to ya!!
I am learning Celica stuff as things need replaced // worked on.
6gc is a FANTASTIC family community!!

presure2 & GriffGirl, along with richee3 & some others I can't recall right now have been life savers!!

I wish you luck on this venture!!

Yea the community here is a great help majority of the time. I always appreciate!

Good news, I found the part locally at a u-pull-it type joint. Of course the only cellie there was gutted, but a found a 96 geo prism LSi with the exact magnet valve (vsv) for 11.95 + 2.00. So thats alot better then what the dealer quoted...180...they can.....yea fill in the blanks =)

Well to revive a semi-dead thread.

I've gone through the works to figure out this issue. TPS, IAC, TB itself, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, Distributor, Wires, Plugs, Timing, distributor, distributor cap. Checked all of it, and replaced anything that looking even slightly wrong or worn.

Anything that could be related to this problem, I've checked it and replaced anything that is slightly out of spec, even things I didn't need to change just cause I was tired of nothing fixing it.

Now, I've been shooting in the dark to possibly find this issue. Then I remembered my last oil change, I didn't do it myself, being I didn't want to have another dirty weekend. I took it to "Tire Kingdom" becaue I was getting an alignment done, so figured what the hell why not.

When the did the oil, they spilled a bit on the valve cover and altenator, and just left it there. I of course cleaned it off, and figured shouldn't be much a issue. Well 2 days after the change is when this issue arose. I spoke with someone at TK and they said sure bring'er in and we'll take a look (Probally because I've dropped 1600 bucks in 2 cars there within the last month). I get there, and the manager is present. He instantly starts arguing with me that its not the altenator, its my TPS. I inform him, my TPS is within spec, and all the other things I've replaced or fixed. He continues to treat me like I know nothing about a altenator...but the more he talks the more he shows his ignorance. Thus I ask him where his vehicle is, he informs me in the lot. I then ask him if i can dump some oil all over his altenator and then see how his car runs, then of course they kick me out.

Either way, I do not have the funds to replace it at the moment, being I want to go with a higher amp output altenator for future plans, but after all that i've done, its the only thing left. It just makes sense, oil on the bushings would ruin the surface area, thus less then required output of electricity is there when its needed (When I pound the gas).

The problem itself has evolved, it no longer stalls out, or do I have to tap the gas to get'er going.

It drives relatively normal except in idle, you can watch it randomly just drop and return, and some slight hesitation on lower RPM takeoffs. For instance taking a turn, dropping to second, with engine at 2k RPM it'll hesitate, but be gone once you pass 3k. This of course sounds like the TPS, but I've checked that several times.

My car has been doing this for the last week or so as well. I was pretty scared and stopped driving it because I have almost an hour commute in stop and go traffic and that is when the car stalls the most, on low rpm. I too have had similar experiences as well with sputtering at low rpm, engine going up and down just like yours on your clip. Please keep my updated if there is any changes good or bad. I called a trusted mech and he said that it could be many things but if it's the Fuel pump then I should not continue to drive it until it get's replaced. But you said you already checked your pump right? I hope things get better for you. In the mean time I drive it every few days to close places but am too scared to drive it far. I get a few sputters every 5 minutes or so still.

Yea I wish I had a answer, I'm still looking myself. Its been worse the last few days, its comes and goes which makes me think its electrical.

I removed my TPS yesterday and checked continuity at .020 mm, and up. It seemed to be within specifications, but the haynes manual is very limited on information for the 7a-fe engine. The only one that was close to my TPS was the 3sge, all the others were only 3 pin connectors where as the 3s-ge was 4. So I just went off that.

I've been spraying carb cleaner in the altenator just for giggles, surprisingly it worked better for a few days after, payday is right around the corner, so I might just invest in another alt even though I was trying not to spend money on this engine being I was saving for the swap, but it appears you have to spend a little to get a little.

I hate to just throw money at the problem and hope I find the issue. I'm debating on just taking it to get a dianostics and hope they can just tell me what it is. I've probally already found the issue, just didn't realize it. Being mechanically inclined is great and all, but does make up for lack of experiance as i'm learning =P

Would a timing belt possibly stretch?

Cause I checked my timing before, and it was fine, but at the time it wasn't having issues....

I just don't want to change it, if its not the problem, as its not a fun task

I had a similar problem with a bike I was driving it would run great until it warmed up
then it would sound like it was running on three cylinders
turns out it was the thermostat
by the time i figured it out I'd blown the head gasket

If it was thermo wouldn't I overheat? - Temp is always the same.

http://www.autotechonwheels.com/smfeb08.htm


I found that information quite interesting, its very similiar to the issue i'm having....changing the timing belt this weekend, shall be fun. Anyone have any tips, like where I should support the engine from once I remove the side mount? I have a couple big jacks and i figured a 2x4 to distribute the weight to support the engine, just don't want to damage the oil pan.

never seen that before but would be enough to do it

as for changing the timing belt I hope your changing the water pump
idler pulley and a new toyota tensioner cause this is a must for these type of engines
I used a jack with a piece of wood under the transmission to support the engine

Yea, I was trying to ignore the fact to change those things, but it seems its gota be done.

Got a distributor on the way, should be here monday, slap that in. If its still there after I take the EGR valve off this weekend, then next weekend its timing belt, water pump, and tensioner...yay.

Well, did the whole EGR thing this weekend. Didn't quite go as planned, stupid me forgot i had to plug the holes of the equipment i was removing, so i ended up putting it back on, and just blocking the EGR intake side with a piece of a aluminum can. Issue still there.

So distributor today, and fuel pump should be here tomorrow. Timing and teeth were all fine, belt appeared to have less then 20k on it.

Atleast through all this hell, I'll know for a fact everything I've messed with is now new or fixed =P

Well...its solved, which might surprise some. It was the distributor...its been solid all day today. Heh, atleast its fixed.

Congrats on getting it figured out... at least in the process, you learned a hell of a lot!

Very very true, lol it was a crash course, but atleast now I don't look at the engine in utter confusion.

Lol all fixed, and have a walbro pump laying around for the swap one day, turned out aok.