6G Celicas Forums

So when I first bought this car, it had a really bad erratic idle, that would drop down to 0 and bounce right back up in a matter of a second, and keep doing this. It would flicker, and then stall. It's not fuel related. It'll actually stall when I'm driving and then not start back up. I replaced the ignition coil and all was fine. Now, three months later, it's doing this again >:( What do you guys think? It's throwing a 12, 13, and 41 codes. Could these all be related to the 41 (TPS?)

distributor.

Do you think so? I figured 12 and 13 were leaning towards that, and 41 is obvious, so dizzy and tps?

Ok, so normally when I start my car it revs to ~ 1500 rpm and then drops to normal idle of about 750 on the first turn. Starting last week though it's been starting weakly at about 750. I had the fuel filter, cap, and rotor replaced yesterday but when I tried starting the car this morning it turned but didn't catch...just died. Upon turning the key and pressing the gas it fired right up like normal.

So my question is...do I need to replace the distributor?

pull a spark plug, attached to a wire, ground it on the valve cover, disconnect the igniter, have a friend crank the engine, and check for spark. Blue= good spark, yellow= not so good, none= broken.

u wont get a spark with the ignitor unplugged

oops, didn't mean to put that, was thinking about something else. Leave igniter connected. just bump it though, don't start it

clean your throttle body throughly with TB or CARB cleaner, and try again



pull your EFI fuse for ~ 10 min, if that doesn't correct your problem, replace the dizzy && adjust your TPS.

Stephen,

I'm guessing the line above my post is directed to me; the throttle body was cleaned last year...should I still do it again?

keiri, yes the line above it directed at you.

clean the TB, make sure your vac lines are still ok. are you having any drivability problems?

No drivability problems; once she starts she's fine. The first 5 minutes or so of driving the car is at a higher RPM until it warms up and then it drives like it's been driven all day.

The only problem I found on the vac lines was the little connector at the rear of the stock intake has a couple really small hairline cracks at the top of the tube radiating out from the middle.

Reviving an old thread- my car's still doing this. I replaced the ignition coil now. It's no longer throwing the 41 code, but in place of that it's throwing a 14. It's all ignition system now. I have 5 different igniters and they all do the same thing, so I'm thinking it's not that.

its the distributor, like i said in the first reply after your first post.

Now, to be sure, and I'm not doubting you in the least; just giving you more details. This is an intermittent problem, sometimes it'll drive for a week and be fine, and then the next day it won't start, or it will start and the rpm's will be incredibly unstable. I probably should have told you this in the first place. Is it still the distributor?

yeah same happened to me it was overheating till i replaced it and all was good again

I really hope this is the problem.... will one off a camry 5s work?

should i got mines off a rolla

Cool, I'll let you guys know how this works out on monday

Bought a distributor from checkers auto in oklahoma... It said MR2 distributor, non turbo, so I got it shipped to me. Not only was it not for an mr2, it was from a 6 cyl Mazda "mr3" I'm pretty sure mazda doesn't make a 6 cylinder "mr3"

?

ouch hope u getting ur money back