6G Celicas Forums

okay first off i have new wires cap and rotor, ... I was driving normal and car was missing and sounded like a subaru so i pulled over and saw that my one of my ignition wires came right off the cap so i put it back on and ran fine well i get back in the car and no more than 1 minute the car does it agian and dies well i look under hood and everything looks okay but wont even spark...... i have walbro fuel pump and that is fine switched fuel pumps and its not the pump.... i did have timing advanced and running 93octane but i have been doing that for over a year,........ but i have noticed every now and then for the past few months when i start the car it will act very sluggish and wont even go past idle even when i put it to floor it just bogs out and i would have to shut car off and start it back up and run perfectly fine. lately the past 2 weeks it has been worse and started to bother me and notice now and then it will back fire out of intake....... today i worked on car and played with timing and putting car in diagnostics mode and got car to run and idle but once you give it gas it doesnt want to go up in RPMS and just falls on its face and die....!!!!! so any sugestions ??? plugs look kinda bad ill change those but the way it runs smooth and then just dies and wont start unless you play with timing, its got me stumped bad...... thnx in advance for all of u girls and guys help !!!!!!!

Sounds to me like your ignition timing is not advancing properly when you open up the throttle, I'm pretty sure on all 6gc it's ECU controlled and is effected by engine rpm, AFR and TPS data, might want to check related components. You have a 95 so no OBDII for easy data readout, have to check them individually. Older cars used to have centrifugal/vacuum advance mechanisms which would sometimes get stuck and exhibit similar behavior.

It's odd though that even with OBDI, you don't have any trouble codes or a CEL lit up.

This post has been edited by Jamchell: Jul 2, 2010 - 7:24 AM

could be a failing ignition coil.

Mine was doing this not to long ago. It ended up being the distributor.

yea i have one on way but is over w week late so i think i got ripped off here on the forums but thats another story so anyone that has a spare one let me know asap!!! also timing belt i think may have slipped or "jumed" timing, and while i adjusted timing i had car in diagnostics mode so computer wouldnt put car in "safe mode"..... and keep the setting i had car in as far as timing.... the igniton coil is mounted where?? firewall?? thnx for all the help !

7a coil is in the distributor.

it does sound like the timing belt jumped a tooth.

yea that is what my moms BF had mentioned who owns a car dealership and shop so him and i will have to check that out.... is there any way of testing the coil ignition?? or distributor as a whole lol other than car not running right ..? also doing some research i have read that having a wire pop off and putting back on while is running can actually cause damage to distributor any inputs on that guys??

other than being a stupid idea, attaching the wire while its running isnt an issue

yeah that is what i thought too but just had to ask lol.. the ignition coil it self can just be replaced right...?? they list it at the parts store so common sense tells me yeah but sometimes you just never know ...... goin to try plugs too cant hurt it !
how hard is it to replace ignition coil??



This post has been edited by 95celicastLSR: Jul 2, 2010 - 12:46 PM

7 screws. easy.

okay so after new spark plugs and changed ignition coil it did not fix problem... so that left me to check timing as in timing marks and timing belt still in place , Well that checked out perfecly fine belt nice and tight still and put motor to TDC with number 1 piston top and made sure the rotor was pointing to number one ignition wire, well it all was in check still so i have new distributor on way from autozone and will be here tomorrow after i install it and make sure everything is good ill post up if it was the initial problem so others can use this to help them out...thanks for all the help guys
Lance R.....

could also be a weak fuel pump that can't keep up with demand from the engine.

it has a Walbro 255 in it lol think that is more than needed .... no but i did suspect that at first so i replaced it with a stock one and didn't change anything one bit, so i installed the Walbro back in it.. After i change distributor it should be up and running if not...... then i will look into ECU problems, but car has original distributor from factory when bought new over 250,000 miles ago. lol Sh1ts getting old and worn out... car is slowly going down hill and when it does hopefully i will have my Pauter racing rods in on top of my forged internals and Wiseco pistons and toga racing bearings and port and polish head... turbo and tuned Ect. Ect... but that will be a new thread when the time comes and i am going to push car to the upper 250+Whp to wheels no matter what people say it can or cant do... planned on doing race tune around 18psi and street tune at 10PSI.... well any other input would be helpful to me and others but till tomorrow i amm sticking with distributor is main problem at this point..

if you're going that balls out, i don't think the factory ignition system will work well at 18psi. may as well save yourself the money and setup your coil pack ignition now.

yeah that has been an on going research and i found AEM makes some nice coil on plugs and stuff to go with it to make it work but i also seen they make a universal type twin fire modules that works with coil on plugs and distributor.... after it gets close to the time to park and start build ( in about 8 months) ill be in contact with Pure tuning out of toledo,ohio... on what would be easier and better tune and power wise.... should be pretty sweet deal when all done and finished .. as far as what i think has failed on distributor is the pick up coil inside..

first i was just goin to use factory ECU and use AEMs F/ig*c but if i max out ignition i can just go stand alone since it would not require igniter or ignition module, plus so many upgrades like programmable traction control, boost cntr, 2step launch control, Ect. Ect....... deponds on how much i get back from taxes this up coming year..

just use a GM setup, the 2 tower coils are cheap and fire off a switching ground. its fairly easy to use and they make hi-power coils as well. you can just fire all 4 plugs at the same time or setup to fire them seperate (waste spark).


This post has been edited by Bitter: Jul 2, 2010 - 11:16 PM

ya that sounds good.. and would save a bit..... as for car i still have the same problem so i towed it to the shop and monday morning were going to check timing belt agian cause only way i can get car to run some what was to pull the 2 bolts and turn distributor way way advanced so maybe it jumped timing by a tooth or so but tried whole new distibutor and that didnt change a thing so back to the drawling bored!!!! i am also going to try out a new relay for the EFI under the hood but i checked all and every single fuse just incase but nothing blown.... i did check timing by just looking at top half as in where it lines up the cams and the notches and it was fine with the rotor pointing to number one but couldnt see where the timing marks are without taking tire and stuff off but i have a new timing belt laying around house so i may just replace it .. last resort is new ECU

.... UPDATE... okay after a weeks worth of work i found out that the timing did jump a few teeth.. so i had an extra timing belt on hand so i fixed that and realized what caused this to happen.. the keyway on the crankshaft that keeps it in time came apart and messed up the belt, harmonic balancer, and the small crankshaft gear..... so i fixed all of that and replaced the keyway... so i put car back together and still will not fire... i have access to brand new parts so i have tried new distributor and nothing.... next was to put it on computer and check for codes while it was loading codes we ran a test and MAP sensor was reading 751 ?? while car was NOT running and unplugged it to see what happened and it read 321 ??? .... so it pulled code 31 MAP sensor. i ordered one and put it on and car started and ran fine for about 30 sec and died agian ..... so i am at the WTF stage with car and waiting on a new ECU to get here and figure out if that is my main problem !!!! more than likely my best bet it is fried.... car wont even pop or try to fire anymore..

are you getting injector pulse when cranking? getting waveform from the cam sensor?