6G Celicas Forums

Spacers for the wheels? I'd like to see what you go with, since the rears are atrociously sunk in...it'd be awesome if they could be made flush.

No I need to make spacers for the end links. The mount on the strut and the mount on the sway bar are offset so I want to make sure the alignment is right and doesn't bind.

If there is interest I can put these together and sell them. There is a pretty steep discount for ordering quantities of the parts to make these. When I ordered these they gave me a break because I was a new account. The allthread also comes in three foot lengths and I only needed 2 1/2 inches for each side.

the bad thing about those and twosrus are the sperical bearings.
the great things about the miata ones is they are stiff, no ply, just hold the rear in place. I have seen a notcable difference since installing....I will never go back to those...the stiff miata one are where it's at, and I drive my car like it should driven

couldn't have said it better myself.. this was the point i failed at trying to get across when i made this thread.
these are so much better than the twosrus links.

.. and is the cheapest, best upgrade under $100

Has anything else been found for the front either then modifying the racing beat rear's to fit the front?

Just for comparison purposes everything cost me a little over $100 for all four corners. Buying only two of the male threaded joints made the price a little higher than it could be.

So if you lower your carr, should you have your endlinks adjusted to be shorter than from the factory, Or longer?

Also, is the purpose of having adjustable endlinks so that you can adjust the enlink so there is no preloading in the sway bar?

Sorry I don't meanto bring back a thread, but I read a bunch of links posted, and I got kinda confused. Any answers would be awesome, thanks guys.

these are just about removing the purpose of the endlink altogether... they are going to add side to side motion to the endlink... which is not possible in the sphere... there is little to no rotational movement - you might as well just weld a bar between the mount and sway bar... it would serve the same purpose as these endlinks

as far as the distance between the endlinks... it makes absolutely NO difference as to how long or short the endlink is as long as you can get it to fit... the adjustable idea is to remove the preload... which as long as you do everything right, you shouldn't have any anyways... getting the bar to be horizontal as stated is the biggest lead on i've ever heard... its the bolt in the endlink that needs to be horizontal... the sway bar is to reduce side to side motion since the invention of independent suspension.... yes the polymounts will give you a stiffer ride for the time being... but you are going to burn out other parts very quickly including your shocks... you are putting all the stress on the shocks rather than on the sway bar, not to mention your a arm bushings are going to get destroyed as well... this is a cheap mans bandaid to the problem of suspension... put the money down and upgrade the parts that need it... first off... thicker sway bar... the stock sway bar is junk

these are in no way a better upgrade than the twosrus endlinks...

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 3:40 PM

So your saying that the twosrus enlinks would be better then these ones? Would the twosrus be better then the stock endlinks? And how would you remove the preload from the sway bar?

From what i've read, I thought that the length of your endlinks and a car would determine if there is preload. Like if you lower your car and have he factory endlinks on, the sway bar will always be pre loaded, unless you get shorter end links. And I've also read that the sway bar needs to be parallel with he ground.

This post has been edited by jordisonjr: Jun 6, 2010 - 4:18 PM

NO BOTH OF THOSE ARE FALSE - if you lower your car, as long as both sides are lowered the same amount, there is no preload... it may limit the effectiveness of the endlinks because the bolts may no longer be parallel with the ground, but with the celica setup - the front has NOTHING to do with ride height... the endlinks are attached to the A-Frame, not the shocks, the back it is attached to the knuckle... some of the things said in the thread are ridiculous... i really need pictures to fully show what is going on with these...

the sway bar being parallel with the ground has nothing to do with the endlinks at all... the endlinks affect the degree between the mounting location on the knuckle/aframe and the pivot point... think of it like this... take a piece of wood like a 2x4 for instance that is say 6 feet long - now push on it against a nonmoving object like a wall with the 6ft section between you and the wall.... so one end of the wood is against the wall and the other is against your stomach or arms... you are pushing on it with the width of the board parallel to the ground... now rotate that wood so that is it perp to the groun or at a 45 degree angle... push on in the same way... does the rotation make any difference on how strong it is? the mounts (pivots) of the sway bar to the frame MAKE IT PARALLEL to the ground in the orientation that matters


the racingbeat endlinks will give a stiffer feel - but limit the POSITIVE movement of the suspension... putting terrible stress on other parts... the twosrus endlinks are made to create a stiffer feel while REMOVING stress on other parts of the suspension... if you drive your vehicle once a month at a track event and want the best feel - skip the racingbeat endlinks (the only time these would even be considered) and weld a bar between the mount and sway bar- thus eliminating independent suspension, otherwise for daily driving that is improved while not sacrificing reliability - twosrus are the way to go

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 5:59 PM

thats wrong... the good thing about the twosrus and those ARE the spherical bearings...

the sphere allows rotational motion ONLY
the bushings allow rotational and transverse motion... the bolt can move as a whole from side to side as well as up and down

Toyota decided to use the spherical endlink for a reason - a bushing puts stress on all other parts of the suspension... thus limiting effectiveness and reliability in the long run

This post has been edited by pittfirefighter: Jun 6, 2010 - 5:48 PM

I agree they put more stress on the rest of the suspension, but so does lowering springs, poly bushings, or any sort of suspension upgrades.

Toyota uses many things (like sperical bearings) for better ride quality. Once you do any suspension upgrades you put more stress and weaken many componets in the long run.

Alright so I'm pretty confused on this, and I need to replace my endlinks pretty bad. They are stripped and won't get any tighter and make a terrible clicking sound.
I daily drive my car, SO which endlinks should I get, the racing beat? or the tworus?

Will these work for the ST205?
Any insight would be appreciated.

Ive been using the racing beat end links for a coupe of years, the problem ive found is there is a vertical distance between the two ends (sway bar and strut tab) meaning there is unusual twisting on the bushes in the end links. Im pretty sure thats whats squeeking in the arse end of my car (since every single bush is new as of a couple of weeks ago)

Other than the Megan Racing coilovers and a bushing set that I'll get in the near future (no extra money right now) My suspension will be pretty much stock. Would it be a good idea to get these Racing Beat end links?

I'm in the same boat! Anyone have an opinion on this? I am planning on getting the Megan's, the bushing kit, some new sway bars and these end links, is there anything else I should upgrade while I'm at it?

3SGTE? lolol

That comes after the suspension upgrade!