6G Celicas Forums

Right this is going to be pic heavy but I have been building my car for a good while now and its pretty much finished. Done 2 threads on the TOC and gt4oc.net and i know most people on here are americans so i thought this would make a good source of info as you guys didn't get the st205 over there officially.

This is basically how the engine looked before i started stripping it, unfortunately the car club nazi's on my military base have taken up all the room in the garages I had to do this outside over late summer and through the winter. I'm sure people know about the UK weather so its not the best way to do this as i got frozen many a time.

Now as you can see the intercooler route isnt the best and basically the more i stripped the engine the more i learned and i would consider myself quite a knowledgable bloke on engines now cause i cannot stress how much you learn from doing this from rebuilding, general maintenance and modifying.





As you can by the big gap at the front i took the turbo off in a oner including the exhaust manifold, comes off really easy altogether was quite surprised. As you can see the exhaust valves are nicely scorched and gave me the idea of replacing all valves and doing a little more head work than planned. After i took the head off i took it to get skimmed and a bit of a clean up, this is what they found while skimming it, basically these are either det marks or where a piston ring exploded. Luckily as you can see on the picture all marks fit inside the gasket bracelet making the head still serviceable to use. Basically i have had 2 blocks before this so some parts have migrated over to this engine, back then i didnt do much on the car myself so whether i had cowboys working on the past engines who knows. My other two engines basically what happened was, crashed my car and cracked the block so rebuilt the car, finally discovered the block was knackered after elimnating everything else and got a new one in. After a few thousand miles i was having minor temperature problems with the new block so enough was enough, plus my last few gfs pissed me off enough to decide screw women for a while my car needs me more. You will see the problem i found later on but for now the head was skimmed by 0.005"









For uprating the head i decided on getting ferrea valves, titanium retainers, new collets, new buckets with 8mm shim, dual springs, HKS 264 camshafts and some vernier pulleys. 272 camshafts would have put the power band way up the rev range and would require extra machining on the valve train. The dual springs are proper nails, just so much stiffer.
New setup


Old setup

and where the engines at for the time being

Plus Suspension and driveshafts need disconnecting

Underneathe the car, prop shaft disconnected

Cross member needs to come out

Must apologise for the lack of action shots, this is my first strip and build, did it mostly on my own and was really focussed when i was set about the engine.

Right now for the fault with the engine, once i pulled the engine out the car i removed the pistons and this is what i found

A horizontal crack, quite rare as usually they are vertical and with a bit more blackening around it. Unfortunately this meant new block but someone off the gt4oc.net sourced one for me and she was in much better condition than my current block so was very happy.





After pulling the pistons, i did actually think to myself wouldn't it be great if they were some gucci racing pistons and this is what i found



Oh yes CP 86.5mm pistons, quids in boyos

Will start a second post cause this is going to be super long.

Once I got all the gubbins out, i took the block to get machined and the crank, flywheel, clutch to get balanced. Took it to performance unlimited in York and they did a top job, even other engine builders that i showed the block to said the finish on the cylinders were second to none. I got an F1 stage 4 clutch with an F1 flywheel which is highly rated on the gt4oc and for very little money, weighs about half the weight of a standard one and is easier to drive with rather than a fidanza one.

When i got back i started to assemble the rods and pistons after weighing the rods and pistons and matching them up together. Now i'm an aircraft engineer in the military working on the harrier. WHen it says in an air publication use a 7/16 bolt it refers to the head size. When you get Eagle rods you get a spec sheet with all the torques on, basically i over torqued the arp 2000 bolts for the rods as it was a 7/16 head but 3/8 thread :S gutted! Anyway got some more arp 2000 bolts and torqued them correctly.











Main and Rod bearings i used ACL with 0.001" extra oil clearance X series. Piston rings as you can see i used Total Seal piston rings based in Arizona with a gapless second ring and filed them down using a blade file we use to blade blend on compressor fans. Now there is some concern over these rings, i have heard stories of them not bedding in properly but dave at performance unlimited recommended them and he knows his stuff. I decided to take a chance on them plus they help raise compression so i'm hoping for good results.

STarted putting her back together, you can clearly see the oil strainer, sump tray, new oil pump, my new flywheel which lets be honest looks sexual and my new clutch. As i remember at this point the weather was seriously seriously cold and i could only do an hour up at the garage max it was that bad.











Got as far as i could with the engine waiting on parts so i did a bit of re-assembling the head.



and then..... the best thing out the lot turned up, my new garret gt3071r with a 4" intake, 4bolt 3" exhaust with a 0.86A/R turned up




Was bored one night and did this as i decided i wanted polyurethane mounts so i drilled out the rubber of the normal mounts and hacksawed the inner ring, quite easy to do.




Start another reply now, too many pics ha

Once a few parts turned up i started plodding on with the engine again. I mounted the gearbox to the engine and to be honest i must have got the clutch pretty damn centred as it went really well and didnt take us much time at all, very happy. I couldn't be bothered cleaning the gearbox, i just wanted to get it finished by that point. I then installed my arp head studs and as you can see i'm using an apexi 1.1mm head gasket which to be honest isnt super expensive so i would recommend getting one as they do them in 1.1mm, 1.5, 1.8 and 2.something. I then mated the head with the block and torqued all the nuts down, just remember there is a torque sequence for this or you can end up warping the head. All new timing gear was then put on along with a new water pump and my HKS timing belt put on. Timing belts are a right pain in the arse so don't worry if you have trouble getting it on it is supposed to be like that, i had to loosen one of the idlers till it was flapping about so i could get it on. Try keep the belt tight between the exhaust cam and the crank and leave the looseness round by the hyd tensioner.











Once the engine was pretty much together minus the turbo system, i started a bit of pipe identification as although i remembered a lot some pipes i just did not have a clue about. I ended up undertanding that a lot of pipes i could get rid of. To give you some good examples, there are pipes going to the throttle body to heat it, this is mainly for cold starts but why have it being heated? Just making your inlet temps hotter so off they went, along with things like the power steering idle up which you don't need this just idles it up at low revs for parking but hardly makes any difference. The charcoal canister which from what i remember lets fuel vapour from your fuel tank into the inlet. The tvsv pipes and solenoid, basically i have got rid of a load of clutter out my engine bay.

Wow thats quite the work you've done ont his motor. definately keep this thread updated as you do more work, if your doing more. I'd follow it! keep it up man

Really must apologise here, no action shots of putting it in, was only two of us and time was against us. So bit of a jump but, the engine went in, some tips to doing it is makes sure the radiator is out, the turbo system being off makes so much more room, leave the alternator off and the thermostat housing. Remember when you put the worm drive on the transfer box, basically the device that translates the drive into the prop shaft make sure you put this on while the engine is like 3/4's in otherwise you won't be able to tighten up all the bolts.

So the engine is in





At this point in timing there was a lot of waiting around for turbo parts, plus i decided to try a tubular manifold off ebay and see if i could rig up some struts to take the weight and stop it from cracking. However once i got the manifold, basically it was **** so i sent it straight back and turned my attention to the cast iron manifold. The cast iron manifold is a great bit of kit although heavy its a strong old thing and will around max around 500bhp. Some fettling was required though as my garrett is a single engtry turbo and the standard turbo is twin entry so i needed to take the bridge out of the manifold. You can do this by grinding it which takes ages and i gave up after 37minutes, came to my senses and took it to the machinist. They took it down to a knife edge for me but do not leave it like this whatever you do, the knife edge will be hit by exhaust on more than one side and i was told will probably melt at 1000deg and go down my turbine. All you need to do is getting something like a dynafile and flatten the edge out so its nice and blunt. To helpt the engine breathe porting and polishing down the runs of the exhaust manifold with a flexi shaft is a must, opening them out will help quite a bit.


Like i said do not leave it knife edged!


Then ceramic coated it using some stuff called cermakrome from demontweeks which isnt too expensive but has had good write ups, anything to keep the heat from radiating.

I got this idea off my mate for the water injection nozzle (by the way never get your car mapped with water injection, put it on afterwards. If its mapped with it and the water injection fails, engine will go bang), the gt4 throttle inlet is this rubber thing, the mr2 turbo rev3 onwards has a solid inlet which you can fit to the gt4 and this is where i will drill and tap the inlet for the wi nozzle.



The car was coming along nicely now, as you see in these 2 pictures my additional oil cooler (blue one) for the engine. This is a must on any gt4 as the normal oil cooler just cannot cut it and standard cars see oil temps of 100deg's at crusing speeds. The other is a bigger gearbox oil cooler with the power steering cooler removed, you don't really need one unless on track and its not hard to setup.



By now my header tank had turned up, something the gt4 does not have and will help massively in reducing temperatures. Always use one in conjunction with a swirl pot which will help take air bubbles out of your coolant system something that you do not want. The header tank must always be higher than the top of the radiator so the suspension tower is always a good place to mount it. I made up some crude brackets (i'm not going for presentation by the way) and awaited the arrival of my swirl pot. Now that i remember, the standard over flow bottle is no longer needed so get rid of that, get rid of the rubber seal off the bottom of the rad cap aswell. The 3 ports on the header tank are for rad overflow to header tank, swirl port to header tank, and the big one is the drain from the header tank. You will need an alloy T piece plummed into your cool system so the tank can drain into it, best place is the bottom rad hose just as it comes out the radiator.








My turbo parts now in my possesion i hooked the turbo up, the turbo inlet needs to be pointing directly on top of the turbo and the oil drain needs to be made sure its point downwards otherwise oil will build up in the turbo and you may blow the seals, this is why garretts need a restrictor piece for the oil turbo feed. Unfortunately i had to use an adapter piece which is what the blue wastegate is attached to, the wastegate was resting on the standard oil cooler in this position so i bought a relocation pipe to fix this. The oil drain i just made up of silicone pipes, bends and alloy couplers, a lot of people go for gucci braided hoses but i am mr cheap when it comes to this as i got a lot of my parts so much cheaper by shopping around and prowling ebay. I got my conrods for 180 quid and my brand new garrett was 600 odd quid when they go for 1500 usually.

One problem i had was my intercooler, bottom line, it was ****. I decided to get something with better end tank design and something that would allow me to keep the crash bar as i had to remove it when i had my old intercooler in. I decided upon an aftermarket evo style intercooler that fits pretty snug inside the crash bar.



Heres the car as it pretty much is at the moment, thankfully its on base so i can move it around and stuff without getting screwed by the filth. I have since put a 4" intake on her and i am awaiting a TTE(toyota team europe - toyota rally team basically) replica cold air box. She sounds like a V8 at the moment as she has no downpipe on her as the my garrett has a different flange. So i need a welder to modify my downpipe, modify my wastegate relocation pipe as the angle doesn't work for me, and possibly modify my screamer pipe which is easy enough.





Problems i've had with her is just the timing, its really hard to setup the timing as the hks camshafts have no cut outs on them and the timing marks on the cam cover case are not the most accurate. Using the strobe gun when setting the base ignition timing is also a pain, with bigger cams you get a lumpier idle so its doubtful you will ever get it 100% at 10deg's, i had to create a slightly higher idle using the accelerator cable adjustment nuts as i think those dual springs are so stiff its makes it die when you bridge the te1 and e1 to do the timing. Other than that she's fine and revs really well, sounds very healthy when revved i must admit. Just done an oil change/filter change after 50miles, magnetic sump plug was like a hedge hog which is normal, next oil change should see less debree. I will get my spec sheet on here off my other laptop for everyone to see what parts i used. Anyone has any questions or need help just ask, i'm sure i've left loads out.

Oh yeh some handy info for everyone. There is a generic water pump that most places sell that fits the 205 also i think it fits the 185 and looks like this with a metal impeller. I'd advise people to stay away from this model, its not genuine toyota and yes it does its job it won't fail on you but it is of bad design. The impeller is of poor design and causes cavitation, meaning bubbles are being created and will cling around your cylinders creating hot spots therefore giving more chance of cracking. You want the genuine toyota one with the plastic impeller, much better design and less chance of cavitation, if anyone has a st185, you can get this one to fit but it will take some fettling of where it fits on the block.


I did this at the weekend actually, ripped out all the rear interior to lighten her up if anyone wants anything. Trust me those panels in the boot, each one costs around 300 quid each! scandalous




Mike

SPEC SHEET

HKS 264 CAMS INTAKE AND EXHAUST
FERREA VALVES
DUAL SPRINGS
TITANIUM RETAINERS AND NEW FERREA COLLETS
SUPERTECH 8MM SHIMS
SUPERTECH NEW BUCKETS
VERNIER PULLEYS
HKS CAMBELT
1.1MM APEXI HEAD GASKET
ARP HEAD STUDS + NUTS
CP 86.5MM PISTONS
TOTAL SEAL GAPLESS PISTON RINGS
EAGLE RODS
800CC SARD INJECTORS
WALBRO FUEL PUMP
ARP 2000 CON ROD BOLTS
ARP MAIN BEARING STUDS + NUTS
ACL ROD BEARINGS 0.001” OVERSIZED
ACL MAIN BEARINGS 0.001” OVERSIZED
ACL THRUST WASHERS
F1 CLUTCH RATED TO 450BHP/420LBS FT TORQUE
F1 CHROMOLY 11LBS FLYWHEEL
40MM CORE ALUMINIUM RADIATOR
TRD 71DEG THERMOSTAT
4LIFE COOLANT
SWIRL POT AND HEADER TANK ADDED TO COOLANT SETUP
BIGGER GEARBOX COOLER
ADDITIONAL 10 ROW OIL COOLER
FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER WITH LAGGED PIPES
NGR TYPE S BOV (ATMOSPHERIC)
GARRETT GT3071R WITH 0.86A/R TURBINE HOUSING, 4” INTAKE, 3” 4 BOLT EXHAUST
4” STRAIGHT INTAKE
EXTERNAL WASTEGATE WITH 0.9BAR SPRING
STANDARD EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH DUAL ENTRY BRIDGE REMOVED
3” DOWNPIPE (CURRENTLY MODIFYING)
3” STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEM
SLIMLINE PULL FANS
BATTERY WHERE REAR SEAT WAS
PLATINUM PLUGS HEAT GRADE 7
POLYURETHANE MOUNTS
RTP GAUGE PODS
GAUGES - WATER TEMP, OIL TEMP, OIL PRESS, BOOST

Think thats everything

This post has been edited by cloqwise: Dec 19, 2010 - 5:31 PM

thats a pretty awesome celica there

i guess copper spark plugs are better than platinum for performance builds. you just change them more often, but spark delivery should be better if you plan to run high boost.
what ECU ? oem st205 ?

not diggin the FMIC, i`d paint the whole IC system black, as the pipes look a bit rice behind the bumper.. other than that, awesome build!

im not really going for presentation so not too fussed. Plus in my eyes painting the fmic is adding a layer and hindering the cooling process, thats my view anyway.

move that front plate to the side so it doesnt block the intercooler like that. but damn am i loving this celi. i envy your motor. looks good keep it up

Ha already ahead of you mate, ordered a self adhesive number plate at the weekend. There seems to be some inconsistancy with the rozzers in the UK, some fine you for having one and others don't. In my opinion if its a clear plate of the correct size and font, then shouldn't matter of what it is made of but i heard it is the position people put them in, just at the edge of the bonnet.

Cheers mate, its my first build so i have enjoyed doing it so much. I could have really gone to town and got some even more gucci stuff like bigger valves, bigger turbo, more expensive rods like wossner. My goals were around 500bhp with a gt3076r but head lift seems to happen with the arps around 500bhp and for a fast road car it probably was a bit of over kill. So i dropped my goals to ideally 420bhp at around 1.6bar.

As for ECU, i'm not sure yet, might go for an apexi power fc as they are cheap and a good ECU but i am also looking at a link and a hydra nemesis, all depends on money.

I have got platinums in at the moment as i was using irridiums before, platinums seem to agree with the st205 a lot better where irridium can be hit and miss, think i'm going to drop to irridiums heat range 6 next month while i run it in as i think the platinums are fouling on start up.

This post has been edited by cloqwise: Aug 3, 2010 - 10:58 AM

Very nice work. I just wish I didn't have to daily drive mine. Or else she'd be sitting in the garage waiting for a Beams 3SGE to come in.

Beams is pretty good engine weren't they like 200 odd bhp? On other forums there is some debate to which is the strongest 3sge block. Beams is believed to be one of the stronger later spec blocks when you are going for big power along with late spec mr2 turbo blocks, TTE blocks and to some extent people believe the gen 2 block to be stronger than the gen 3 block in the st205. Cracking isn't a big common accurance but it does happen i'm afraid, a lot more compare to something like an evo, me and a few others believe that good cooling mods will prevent this. Also i don't think i have put it on my spec sheet looking at it but i have had my block cryo frozen as this is believe to make the block stronger.

I don't care about big power. I just want a great engine that will be a comfortable 200-230hp and Beams looks like it I prefer handling over speed. I'm about to upgrade 50% of my suspension, other 50% comes with sway bars and polyurethane bushings.

Yeh i see what you mean, good handling, good power is always going to be quick and nimble. Yeh i have plans for polyurethane bushes, just going to do them all for the suspension and sub-frame just buy a few each month and replace the rubber ones. Got some polyurethane mounts that i got from the GT4 guy in poland on ebay that have pretty much eliminated all engine movement ha.

that's good stuff! The other day, the bolt hold one of my mounts actually slipped out. Not enough to make my motor drag, it was still hanging there, but it slipped out nevertheless. I got the car jacked up and luckily the bolt wasn't bent. I popped it back into place with loc-tite and turns out, it had been that way since I got the car, it just got bad enough to notice it a lot just then. Because as soon as I shifted, it was 5 times smoother and I didn't do anything different

Very lucky the engine wasn't really torque reacting, would have been interesting to see the movement of it but glad it cause no damage

great build man, loving all the pics.
only thing im not a big fan of is the silicone oil return line for the turbo.
i'd be worried about it melting with all the heat in that area.
have you used some sort of heat wrap on it?

Really glad you pointed that out, such a daft mistake, will leave it as it is until next oil change in about 100miles.