how to install walbro fuel pump |
how to install walbro fuel pump |
Aug 18, 2010 - 11:52 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 19, '09 From caribbean Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Is there a write up on this site about the procedure? .. i have a 255 psi pump to install but i don't have the end clip for it. and do u think it will add some Hp once i combine it with the MSD igniter and HKS limiter for the 3sge Non beams?
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Aug 18, 2010 - 1:43 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 20, '08 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
you mean 255 lph? Gonna have to drop your tank.
edit: No increase in horsepower, just the ability to pump more fuel. This post has been edited by mak5603: Aug 18, 2010 - 1:44 PM -------------------- 2006 BMW 330i - 6 Speed - Dinan Stage 1
2014 Toyota Rav4 XLE |
Aug 18, 2010 - 2:35 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 19, '09 From caribbean Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
you mean 255 lph? Gonna have to drop your tank. edit: No increase in horsepower, just the ability to pump more fuel. yea i mean lph..... hmm well if there is no increase in Hp ..i shouldn't do this then!! i would only burn more gas -------------------- |
Aug 18, 2010 - 3:41 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
it will add volume but thats it, and you dont have to drop teh tank, just pull out the back seat, the pump assembly is right there. but unless you are boosting, you dont need it.
this is the stock pump assembly by the way This post has been edited by Smaay: Aug 18, 2010 - 3:43 PM -------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
Aug 18, 2010 - 4:44 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 19, '09 From caribbean Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
it will add volume but thats it, and you dont have to drop teh tank, just pull out the back seat, the pump assembly is right there. but unless you are boosting, you dont need it. this is the stock pump assembly by the way Thanks for ur reply.....i c now thats under the rear seat...... so question......... even though i am adding the msd igniter and the hks.. i will not need the fuel pump if i am not adding turbo? -------------------- |
Aug 18, 2010 - 5:55 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 12, '08 Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
it will add volume but thats it, and you dont have to drop teh tank, just pull out the back seat, the pump assembly is right there. but unless you are boosting, you dont need it. this is the stock pump assembly by the way Thanks for ur reply.....i c now thats under the rear seat...... so question......... even though i am adding the msd igniter and the hks.. i will not need the fuel pump if i am not adding turbo? I highly recommend learning a bit more about modern fuel injected engines before attempting to mod anything. Not trying to be a dick in any way, but you can only hurt yourself if you just slap on parts because they sound like they would improve something. heres the wrong reasoning: "more fuel = more power" true, but only under the right circumstances. The stronger spark from the MSD wont give your engine any more air. And in fact I think its safe to say that the MSD is overkill unless your running insanely high compression ratios or high boost. The HKS rev limiter WILL allow you get more air through the engine per unit time but you have to be careful. Rev too high and something might shatter from the force of it all. Also, how sure are you those extra few hundred rpm will really make the most out of the air? This isn't a beams so revving higher will go past the motors volumetric efficiency, thus offsetting any gains from the extra air. I guess a good way of explaining it would be to say that by spinning the motor say 500 rpm past the redline you move X more air per unit time causing the motor to dump more fuel and make X more power. However because the motor is a giant air pump, it takes more power to spin the engine those 500 extra revs, thus offsetting any gains. Taking the 5sfe as an example, the motor is out of its volumetric efficiency range at anything past ~4800rpm; after which point it feels that the engine is just getting louder but not really accelerating the car. One way Hondas fight this is with having multiple cam profiles which in essence change the efficiency range of the engine on the fly. On top of all this you also have to realize that there is a trade off on your hands with the limiter: more power in exchange for putting the motor at risk. Toyota engines are strong but not indestructible, and the factory engineers decided on the stock rev range for a good reason. Either way the stock fuel system should be more than able to keep up with the increased rpms. So hold off on the fuel upgrade until you have the proper mods that will make use of it. the right reasoning: "I increased engine air intake either through forced induction, or cams, or a dry shot of nitrous. Now I need to increase my fuel to compensate for the extra air and prevent engine knock/preignition" There are SO MANY variables to take into account when modifying an engine that you really have to have an in depth understanding of what all the systems are doing and how they affect each other. What I wrote above is just a fraction of the thought process that should be running through your head while picking things to modify. Otherwise you're just shooting in the dark. This post has been edited by enderswift: Aug 18, 2010 - 6:21 PM -------------------- |
Aug 19, 2010 - 11:34 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 19, '09 From caribbean Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
it will add volume but thats it, and you dont have to drop teh tank, just pull out the back seat, the pump assembly is right there. but unless you are boosting, you dont need it. this is the stock pump assembly by the way Thanks for ur reply.....i c now thats under the rear seat...... so question......... even though i am adding the msd igniter and the hks.. i will not need the fuel pump if i am not adding turbo? I highly recommend learning a bit more about modern fuel injected engines before attempting to mod anything. Not trying to be a dick in any way, but you can only hurt yourself if you just slap on parts because they sound like they would improve something. heres the wrong reasoning: "more fuel = more power" true, but only under the right circumstances. The stronger spark from the MSD wont give your engine any more air. And in fact I think its safe to say that the MSD is overkill unless your running insanely high compression ratios or high boost. The HKS rev limiter WILL allow you get more air through the engine per unit time but you have to be careful. Rev too high and something might shatter from the force of it all. Also, how sure are you those extra few hundred rpm will really make the most out of the air? This isn't a beams so revving higher will go past the motors volumetric efficiency, thus offsetting any gains from the extra air. I guess a good way of explaining it would be to say that by spinning the motor say 500 rpm past the redline you move X more air per unit time causing the motor to dump more fuel and make X more power. However because the motor is a giant air pump, it takes more power to spin the engine those 500 extra revs, thus offsetting any gains. Taking the 5sfe as an example, the motor is out of its volumetric efficiency range at anything past ~4800rpm; after which point it feels that the engine is just getting louder but not really accelerating the car. One way Hondas fight this is with having multiple cam profiles which in essence change the efficiency range of the engine on the fly. On top of all this you also have to realize that there is a trade off on your hands with the limiter: more power in exchange for putting the motor at risk. Toyota engines are strong but not indestructible, and the factory engineers decided on the stock rev range for a good reason. Either way the stock fuel system should be more than able to keep up with the increased rpms. So hold off on the fuel upgrade until you have the proper mods that will make use of it. the right reasoning: "I increased engine air intake either through forced induction, or cams, or a dry shot of nitrous. Now I need to increase my fuel to compensate for the extra air and prevent engine knock/preignition" There are SO MANY variables to take into account when modifying an engine that you really have to have an in depth understanding of what all the systems are doing and how they affect each other. What I wrote above is just a fraction of the thought process that should be running through your head while picking things to modify. Otherwise you're just shooting in the dark. WOW!!.. THANKS THIS REALLY HELPED. was wondering why i didn't really hear about this set up before. i was looking it up on the net but found nothing really...... but to be honest i got these stuff from my bro who use to run this this set up in his 2001 noah, with the same engine.... and he was saying how it helped him out run some euro r and some other cars that were clocking it (top end power) but now i realise it was just the engine pretty much .... he added nothing other than the msd ,hks and fuel pump ..... oh he piped it out....... good thing i asked about it here before i jumped to that one. -------------------- |
Aug 19, 2010 - 12:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
yeah for the most part, you dont need any of these mods. a better flowing exhaust and intake will be your best mods
-------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
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