Weird braking at high speeds, NEW TOPIC! how to replace rotors and pads |
Weird braking at high speeds, NEW TOPIC! how to replace rotors and pads |
Aug 19, 2010 - 11:04 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) |
When I'm going above 55 or so and I apply the brakes, the car seems to shake... the pedal shakes and the steering wheel shakes. Lower speeds, it's just fine. What could that be?
This post has been edited by HectortheRican: Aug 23, 2010 - 2:09 PM -------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
Aug 19, 2010 - 11:07 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '04 From Newport, RI Currently Offline Reputation: 63 (99%) |
rotors are grooved.
time to replace the pads and either cut the rotors or get new ones. -------------------- |
Aug 19, 2010 - 11:47 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) |
What does that mean?
-------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
Aug 20, 2010 - 1:42 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 3, '09 From UT Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
When you press the brakes, they rub on your rotors/rear drums. The friction wears down the brake pads as well as the rotors/drums. Eventually, the spots that arent rubbed by anything wont be worn down and they will form a lip around where the brake pad does press. You need to get rid of this lip by shaving off the rest of the rotor to wear it all down to the same surface or get new rotors.
Take the rotors to an auto shop and get your brake rotors milled or go to autozone and replace them. Getting them turned will cost you about $20 per rotor. Autozone will charge about $40-$50 per rotor new. |
Aug 22, 2010 - 7:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 17, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I also thing the problem might be the rotors I have replaced mine and the car feels great. I had cut them the first time but later i put new ones at the front and it feels great mine also was shaking and at high speeds without to apply the brakes.
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Aug 22, 2010 - 9:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 23, '08 From Muskego,Wi Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
warped rotors
-------------------- 2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!
97celiman "92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM" |
Aug 23, 2010 - 1:40 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 16, '07 From Chicago, IL Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
-------------------- 1999 Celica GT Hatchback
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Aug 23, 2010 - 7:50 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 11, '10 From Los Angeles Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I had the same issue. It's exactly what everyone is saying. I took mine to get replaced but the shop ended up just shaving them (said they were off because the car sat for most of the winter in New England cold) and now they're fine. It didn't cost me more than $50 for all 4 to be shaved, plus a tire rotation.
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Aug 23, 2010 - 9:03 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 12, '07 From Lancaster, Pa Currently Offline Reputation: 35 (100%) |
yea... it isn't worth resurface rotors. buy new!
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Aug 23, 2010 - 10:13 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) |
That's what I'm planning on! It'll have to wait a bit though, I'm jobless at the moment because I had to move for college
-------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
Aug 23, 2010 - 2:10 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) |
I like to do as much as I can myself, so could someone give me a how-to on replacing rotors and pads? Thanks in advance.
-------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
Aug 23, 2010 - 5:06 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 11, '10 From Alberta Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I like to do as much as I can myself, so could someone give me a how-to on replacing rotors and pads? Thanks in advance. Can't give you a how-to since I've never done it before on a Celica but I can say it should be fairly easy. I did the brakes on my 2003 Elantra GT and after wrecking 2 calipers I finally got the 3rd to work. I failed on the first caliper for over tightening the brake line, and the other one I ripped the rubber boot cause I didn't know there was such a tool as a "rear caliper tool". I assume the Celica is no different and you will require a rear caliper for the rears. Otherwise it's pretty straight forward, you have to remove a part of the caliper off the rotor to remove the rotor and place the new pads. Make sure that whatever brakes you get that you properly bed them in, this involves specific braking for about 10-20 mins depending what pads you get. I personally recommend the Hawk HPS pads if it is strictly a street car. If you do any auto-x or lapping events I recommend the Hawk HP+ pads, I had them on my Cobalt and once they are warm they are like glue, I LOVED them. This post has been edited by RockyMountainCelica: Aug 23, 2010 - 5:07 PM -------------------- 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS Turbo "Torque Monkey" SOLD
1993 Honda Civic Si "Mean Green Cornering Machine" Track Whore 1995 Toyota Celica GT "Baby Supra" Daily Driver |
Aug 23, 2010 - 8:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 11, '09 Currently Offline Reputation: 11 (100%) |
its easy, take off the brake caliper, and then take off the mounting bracket that holds the cailper in place, either get a hammer and knock off the rotor or get 2 screws and stick them in the holes on the rotor to get it to loosen up..
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Aug 24, 2010 - 12:55 AM |
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Moderator Joined Nov 5, '07 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
do you have ABS?
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Aug 24, 2010 - 1:38 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) |
-------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
Aug 25, 2010 - 1:54 AM |
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Moderator Joined Nov 5, '07 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
bleed your system (properly with a bottle and hose) when you are romoving the calipers. If you dont you will push the fluid back up into the ABS motor and do damage.
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Aug 25, 2010 - 8:18 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 26, '09 From Albuquerque, NM Currently Offline Reputation: 19 (100%) |
bleed your system (properly with a bottle and hose) when you are romoving the calipers. If you dont you will push the fluid back up into the ABS motor and do damage. So before I remove the calipers, bleed? -------------------- taking too long to mod since '09
June '12 COTM '95 AT200 |
Aug 26, 2010 - 1:04 AM |
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Moderator Joined Nov 5, '07 From New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
as you are pushing the pads out and removing the calipers. Since you dont want to force any fluid back up the system.
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Aug 26, 2010 - 10:29 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 17, '08 From JB MDL, NJ Currently Offline Reputation: 30 (100%) |
Its good practice to bleed the system while you are changing pads anyhow. I think its a lot easier with no wheel in the way.
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Aug 26, 2010 - 3:58 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 19, '07 From tx Currently Offline Reputation: 22 (100%) |
Its good practice to bleed the system while you are changing pads anyhow. I think its a lot easier with no wheel in the way. If you are gonna do that you might as well flush the entire system by pumping a bottle of cheapo brake fluid through it before you put the good stuff in as well -------------------- ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI] PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO SUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/ INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports EXT: WRC/TRD/404 Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them. Slow down Paul Walker. 6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url] |
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