6G Celicas Forums

Hey all with my current audio setup when there is a high bass beat on each beat (doof of tha sub ) all the interior and headlight will dim slightly...

Currently have it set up:

Headunit (50x4 RMS)
powers: 6.5" 3-way speaker 55 watts RMS (back speakers)

600 watt 4chan amp (75x4 RMS at 4ohm, 100x4 RMS at 2ohm, 195x2 RMS bridged at 4ohm) powers: 6.5" component speaker splits 70 watts RMS (front speakers)
and 10" subwoofer 150 watts RMS (boot, through LPF)

900 watt monoblock amp (240 Watts RMS at 4ohm, 350 watts RMS at 2ohm)
powers: 12" subwoofer 250 watts RMS (boot)

Now doing a little reading and what i have gathered that will fix the problem is a Capacitor?
and from what i have read about them for ever 1000 watts of amps i need 1 farad.
So for my current install id be looking at 2 farads to be safe, but im also looking at getting another of the 900 watt monoblocks and the 12" sub to replace the 10" so that would be 3-4 Farads to be future proofed...

I have looked at some capacitors and they seem to be big $$$ and then some that are only $90-120 is there a difference in them, will they cause problems or are they the same basic thing?

Thanks all and if a capacitor isn't the solution what is?

A capacitor is your solution, but you will need about a 4 to 5 farad to be on the safe side. plus your not going to have your system maxed out at all though.

ok cool and any specifics on what to go for what to stay away from with them?

Well since that isnt too much power to the amps, A cap may help, but i couldnt guarantee it
I have a very power hungry amp now (4000w) and I had a 5 farad cap with it and it didnt do a damn thing. And I had that 5 farad cap with my old system that was 1500W (plus the headunit) But honestly it still dint do much, they are designed to take a few bass hits and have to recharge (they have very fast recharge rates)... but if your listening to good bass songs, it doenst get a chance and just stays down and ur lights will still dim.
What I suggest is a Kinetik battery (I have one) and the cheapest one, you can find for around $150. And has more power than a 100 farad cap (whether that is 100% true idk) Its designed specifically for audio, just like a giant! capacitor

Highly recommend doing a Big 3 as well. Just look it up you'll find all the info you need, which will allow for a better connection, and less voltage loss.

What you really need is a highoutput alternator Mines very top notch but there are ebay ones for like $250 and will put out double what the stock alt will, at driving RPM's. The alt is where it all starts and with a stock one, your only "cushioning" the bass blow, ultimately with out it your car, or battery can only charge as much as it can... if that make sense.

anyway ive done countless things with audio, and used to be really really into it, so have alot of useless info further than this if you need to know something just ask

you can get a cheap sh!t Power Acoustik 5-Farad for $80 from bestbuy, but go with a better brand name like rockford fosgate or something like that. Those ones are wayyy better

its still best to just get a battery if your spending the money on a capacitor. Ive had 4 different ones (3 were 1 farad though) and my cousin had a fosgate 10 farad, and i hooked him up with my old kinetik battery (HC800) and it worked alot better as far as not letting voltage drop, and dimming lights
ive gone through alot of audio stuff, and done endless research a battery is the best bet for the money imo

ok so maybe a new battery or alt. otherwise try the capacitor... thanks (mgnt232 u are full of info on alot of things thanks again)


kinetik battery on ebay $150 aud + $180 postage -.- lol

This post has been edited by lilguy: Sep 8, 2010 - 11:34 PM

Honestly a capacitor won't do much, I've had plenty of setups and people always say they fix the problem, to a degree they sort of do, instead of the total load being on the alternator its also bridged onto the capacitor which slowly fills power rather than hitting hard on the alternator so there is some benefit to having a capacitor. It will stop the dimming slightly because like i said it allows less power diverted to your amps from the alternator. If you're really looking to solve the problem you'll need to replace the alternator with one with higher amps and change out the batter with that which puts out more volts. I'd recommend the red top optima battery they're amazing.

ok cool looked in to each of the batteries both are going to be in excess of $300 plus the cost of an alternator which i haven't even looked at yet, So i think i might try my luck with a 5 farad capacitor shipped here for all up $80 off ebay. See how that affect the car and work from there...


Thanks for the handy info

DEFINITELY look into a voltage stabilizer or voltage condenser. I've done a lot of research on these things. It'll more than likely help.

Sun Auto and Buddy Club are good brands.

cool will look into them as well thanks.

I have a thread in this section of the forum about voltage stabilizers, it might help. It's on the 1st page

Get a new battery, I chose Yellow Top Optima, Made a HUGE difference and im pushing atleast 2500 watts. Made my bass alot louder, lights dont dim anymore, even my deck worked better lmao. There are alot of batteries out there that do the jon I chose Optima bc of the reviews and the 4 years replacement warranty.

If the battery doesnt help much upgrade the alternator and get bigger ground wires. The ground wires actually help alot beleive it or not. and as for a capacitor i have a fosgate 10. Doesnt help much at all it just looks cool.

Get a capacitor anyway, regardless of whether or not you buy a new battery and alternator. A large sound system will kill your alternator and leave you stranded on the side of the road. A capacitor will at least delay that.

i have a 2000 watt rms system, and a carPC.
i had major dimming with that setup.
i upgraded my grounds, got an optima yellowtop, with a stock 70a alt..no dimming

now my setup is still 2000watt RMS
carPC
4ga grounds
4ga from 160amp alt
4ga from battery to starter
redtop front/yellowtop rear
1/0 ga power to rear batttery/power block
4ga to amps

of course no dimming lol.


NO CAPACITORS. theyre BS IMO.
i've had the first setup for close to two years w/o issue.
i upgraded because, well.. i like upgrades

I'd like to know what alternator you got, like send a link or specifics.

I have a good battery, but stock alternator, and get dimming when I use my car pc, when I turn on healights etc - and when I get to a stop sign or red light, the engine idles, and my lights dim - will the alt. fix that?

I sell car audio for a living, and as stated, yes, caps are BS.
Yes they make me money by selling them, but honestly, they are like covering a wound with a bandaid when you need stitches,
this is why I recommend my clients to do the following..

Get a better battery and upgrade your alternator!
Our cars come with what 60 amp alternators? And are almost maxed out from all factory electronics.
Get a 100-140 amp alternator and a better battery and you won`t have to worry about your headlights dimming.

/End thread.

IM pretty sure you wouldnt even have to get a bigget alternator. I think if you just got bigger grounds, and bigger gauge wire from the alternator to the battery it wouldnt dim at all. I have about the same setup as Stephen, im running about 1500-2000 RMS just no carPC, I have a deck that has navi,sat radio, touch screen, ext. No dimming. Dont waste your money on a capacitor. In all honesty unless your pushing BIG RMS there not worth it.

I know with my cousins civic, he just bought an ebay HO alternator. He only kept the car for a year, so I cant be sure on the life of them, but I can suggest them for at least a year lol.
The stopping thing is more complicated i guess. Since you have a manual, when your stopping or the clutch is depressed, the engine RPM drops to the idle, and with that the rpm to the alt is alot lower, and the alt puts out less. (more rmp, more amps out... to an extent) And our alts are 70 amp yes; But 70 amps is MAX more than likely never achieved under regular driving conditions.
To get NO! dimming at all, what so ever when just idling (and a large system, demanding more power) You would need to get alot of things done. Big3 (or more depending on how the system is setup) with at least 4 gauge (i used 1/0 throughout) better batteries, and make sure your connections are very solid! with bad connections, come voltage drop
And as said before my cousin had an ebay alt with his system (all RF and alpine, 2000 watt) (had a big 3 with 4 gauge, and a cap) The lights still dimmed at idle (even after i gave him my old kinetik battery as well) But at driving speeds they didnt dim at all.
Cheap alternators will not give you much power at idle, its just the way it is, but any alt company can give you more power, with higher rpms.
If i remember correctly my cousins was 60 at idle, and 140 max.
Mine is a Mechman alternator (wouldnt recommend buying one because the price is insane! i just got a good deal from a previous member) and is 135 at idle and 250 max. And my lights have never ever dimmed since. Just showing you get what you pay for.
But most any HO alt can handle a large demand at driving speeds. Just a matter of how reliable they are.

This post has been edited by mgnt232: Sep 9, 2010 - 4:19 PM

im running 3500 watts and i had to put a batt. in the trunk. it was cheep and works grate. no power drain now. if u do that u half to make sure it a gel batt. or canetic.