6G Celicas Forums

**** Problem Solved ***** JDM head has different size injector seals. (had to use some from a USDM 2jz -go figure-)
Thanks for the help of all those who responded.


The car will run w/my foot on the gas some.

the good:
vacuum lines are tight or capped off (no known leaks)
timing is set perfect, including dizzy
new wires/plugs
will boost and seems to run fine w/foot on the gas and RPM's above 2k (fuel pump is on, fpr and injectors should be working...)
mechanically sound (bottom end & head)
current AFM hasn't been adjusted (adjustment screw is still capped)
throttle body has been pretty thoroughly cleaned (idle set screw is set the same as 3 other throttle bodies I've got sitting around
brand new battery
harness was made by Tweak'd Tunning (previously Phoenix, Josh in particular?)
swapped out turbo's too, newly flushed coolant & oil, all coolant lines are tight.

unknown:
AFM could be causing issues but I've got two of them and switching them out doesn't seem to change anything
IAC may or may not be working, but I've switched it out w/the others
I've switched out ECU's (matching year and such)

There are a couple local shops that know jack about Toyotas or this swap in particular. I know I'd end up taking it there and $2k later they still wouldn't know whats causing the problems or how to fix it.
Any help would be greatly appreciated (especially local) as this swap is going on a year and a half. Thanks in advance.

This post has been edited by cjh4l22: Sep 29, 2011 - 1:21 PM

check the sensors on the coolant neck?
do symtoms change as the car warms?

did you uninstall the throttle position sensor ?

Check the piping between the afm and the turbo for any loose connections or air leaks.
Check BOV for air leaks.

This post has been edited by lagos: Sep 22, 2010 - 10:48 AM

Idle air control valve?

^^^What he said!

all sensors on the coolant neck are connected and seem to be working fine



i have not thought of that... might be my next step for sure.



i'm pretty sure all piping is hooked up properly (followed vac diagram) and held tight w/worm driven clamps.



ya know... i'm starting to get the feeling that it might be. even thought i've switched out (another throttle body).

if you haven't uninstall it, don't remove it, but if oyu did, make sure is set correctly, is a pain to get right

i pulled the connector from it completely earlier and it wouldn't really run at all. died pretty much instantly. so it is functioning, just might need adjustments.
need to check IAC and AFM the same way and see if they act similarly.
sound like a plan anyone?

you still haven't answer the first question

DID YOU REMOVE THE TPS SENSOR at any point ? not the plug but if you actually removed the sensor from its location

no i haven't removed the tps sensor. no need to yell lol.

Uses either a scope or test light on all sensers mentioned above to make sure they are getting power and sending a signal to the pcm. If your getting power to it and no pulse to the pcm, its a bad senser, or if your not getting power to it check the ground if the senser has 3 wires and ohm the wire to make sure it is still good.

do u have a check engine light on?

this is one of my next steps.



nope

I feel for you dude - the only thing I can say is stick with it. Once you get it running right it will make all this seem like a necessary step.
Good luck

Yea I am getting a little frustrated though and getting to the point where I'm willing to send it to a shop. If Tweak'd wasn't in Georgia (14hours from me) then I'd take it there...

If the shops around your area don't know jack about the swap don't waste your time and money, just stick with it, when everything is all figured out you will be happy you did

I don't get the problem. Are you saying the car doesn't hold idle by itself?

yea...