6G Celicas Forums

all you really need to do this is pull the EFI fuse in the engine bay fuse box for ~10 seconds.
that way, you dont loose your radio presets as well.
you need to check mechanical timing.

no. nothings clogging the intake



okay. i'll recheck the distributor timing. and my buddy just helped me doing a compression test. it was 170 for all for cylinder

when i turn the key, yes, it attempts to start. it sounds like it wants to start running, but it never does.
and yes, when i start the car i could smell gas like its running rich.
my engine has 138,000 on it.
no, the check engine light isn't on.
when it did start and run, after the engine was warm, there weren't any problems starting the engine again. you could shut it off, and wait like 5-10 mins or so, and it'll start like nothing's wrong with it.
no, i bought the car like this. this is why the owner sold it. cause it wouldn't start most of the times.

yea... ok i helped him look at the car. he did a coil and a distributer along with new ignition wires and spark plugs. i did a dry compression test for him and got around 170 psi in all of the four of the cylinders. we also taped on the tank to check for a bad fuel filter and smelled that there was fuel coming to the engine. the car still does not run. i am think is it a timing belt issue... and for the "timing the distributer" idea, is that a necessary thing to do with a 6gc? lets here some input.

when it doesnt start..

does it get fuel?
bridge B+ and FP in the diags box and listen for the fuel pump/fuel flow
crank it over about 15 times, pull a spark plug and see if it smells like fuel/is wet.

does it spark?

yea, when the engine doesn't start, its getting fuel, spark and air compression

its missing one of them.

my 5s is doing almost the same thing, throwing a p1300 for ignition circuit malfunction #1. Just over 150k miles


Starts first thing in the morning when its still cold and runs fine, however, refuses to start in the PM after its hot.

replaced the distributor, timing belt, cap/rotor, plugs, wires all within a year.

Ignition coils are not avail anywhere (on island) and have to be flown in from state-side. Otherwise, I cleaned all the connectors and checked for bad wires and hoses.

plan to reset my ecu and shoot the timing today and see where that takes me.

either wiring or coil.

pretty certain its the coil.

Timing was was pretty spot on, and after 20 min of failed starts, it finally started and ran normally.

yeah, i thought that it would have been the coil, but i changed it with a brand new one and it wasn't either.

would you have another ECU to test?

It could still be the ignitor coil wiring. I had the wiring burn up on me a few years back on my '99 GT
check the wires by feel - do they feel crispy and hard? Is the insulation cracking or looking burnt at all?

yea, i have another same year celica. but its automatic. would that work?

it should

Yes - been there, done that. You just can't swap the oposite way [obviously]. Just be sure the pins are all in the same places - there were some differences over the years.
You'll get a code cause of the lack of auto tranny but it's easily cleared and you can defeat that code with some simple wiring.

After slaving a new coil, still have the same problem. i'll see about getting an igniter to slave in and unwrap the wires

after poking around and trying different things, found a little oil in the distributor so cleaned it out and replaced the cap/rotor after they looked worn.

changed the spark plugs and wires.

Had to replace the battery.

car ran fine after all of that for a little while and went back to p1300 no spark a day later.


Pulled the lead from the coil and found it only sparks once when I turn the key to <on> and no spark during cranking.

The wires look ok, but are pretty stiff.

Can't find a way to ohm the igniter itself, and getting to the crank sensor just to check if its dirty is beyond what i'm willing to try next.

All of the manuals I could find are more or less pointing to the distributor or ecu.

besides replacing those, i'm out of ideas...

id try the dizzy

Replace the cold start sensor it is only $15 and causes the problems you describe. Mine was doing the exact same thing for a year before I solved it.

It is on the right next to the heater hose hookup, it is the right hand sensor next to temp gauge sensor.