6G Celicas Forums

Hey guys,
So I decided to start tucking my engine bay.
I didn't expect to go as far as I am now, but once I started hiding things, I wanted to hide more & more stuff. I'm not going to the extreme like coomer did, just wanted to clean up the motor a bit.


Engine before I started the tuck, it was neat, but I wanted to venture further.


I started with the passenger side, because its the easiest.
I had to remove the fenders, front bumper, and eventually the hood.



I will get better pics tomorrow, my camera ran out of battery.
Here is a blurry cellphone pic of the frame rail tucked.



I'm happy with the results, then the wiring to the alt and O2 sensor started to annoy me. lol
So I jumped in on the drivers side


Here is some of the tuck and the relocated fuse box


I can't believe how time consuming this is. I have the engine harness out of the car now, I will rewire the entire harness so I can completely hide it.

Blurry pic warning, its getting there.




I still have a ton of work to do on it, consider that the almost half way point, still plenty of things to hide and relocate. I have a feeling I'm gonna pull the engine
I will get some better pics tomorrow.

Any suggestions ?

DEF

lookin good! Its so easy to get hooked on tucking things and get carried away. The results are always worth it though. I noticed you shortened the washer fluid resevoir neck like I did on my old 3s hatch.

Keep it up

this means your not selling and making a comeback?

dont hide the engine... lol

I'm curious as to how you did this
I know its a pretty straightforward process but seems pretty difficult.
Did you have to extend all the wires to hide them?

Very nice work will keep an eye out for updates too

I'm going to try and re-route the harness first, the hardest wires to hide are the few running to the fuse box. Everything else should be easily laced around the engine. The only wires that bug me are the set running over the top of the engine to the altonator. I will take some more pics in a little while.

I'm going to try and keep extending to a minimum. The more I think about this, pulling the engine out will make things much easier to wire.

lookin good so far man!

Passenger side




Drivers side





I have decided to pull the engine out, in the next couple of weeks. I will clean it, rewire it, clean the firewall, re-route the harness entry, mount a new smaller fuel filter.

Where did you tuck everything?
Under the frame rail or something?
Sorry If that's a dumb question, I just love the look of a tucked bay, but have no idea how to do it haha.

^^ i think hes doing a wireless conversion.

no, jk it goes under the chassis.

AHHH! ive been wanting to do this. looks great mane!

So far I re-routed the body harnesses to the fender wells. As for the engine most of the wiring will be routed to the lower rear of the engine, then to their proper locations. The rest of the wiring runs to the EA1 plug in the fuse panel, I will probably run that part under the frame rail. Or I will run it into the drivers side fender well, to plug back into the fuse box.


I need to buy an inline fuel filter, I removed the stock filter. Those fuel lines will also be cleaned up. I also need to find a very small coolant reservoir, I tossed the stock one.

I think I'm going with this filter, small black, easy to hide.



Fuel Filter, Competition, -8 AN Male In/Out, 3.250 in. Long, 1.250 in. Diameter, Black Anodized


I need some help figuring out what size fuel line to buy. I need a line from the new filter to the stock fuel pressure regulator. Can you guys help me out.

Thanks guys

-8 AN inside diameter is 7/16 or 1/2 inch. Depends on brand.
Jegs & SummitRacing have hard line { aluminum, steel, & stainless steel } in blue, red , & natural colors, & adapters to connect to AN fittings to // from hard lines.

If you want to go braided lines, they have stainless steel braided, & synthetic rubber braided with nylon fiber. The nylon fiber made by Russell is black with a lil blue stripe in it about every inch or 1 1/2 inch.

Earl's has all black synthetic rubber with the nylon braid.

Go to Jegs.com & Summitracing.com, look in the "plumbing" sections.

All depends on what ya go with. I use summit & jegs for our other car's performance parts & to compare prices. They are pretty competitive, so if you call the tech lines, they can answer more direct & factual if you decide to call.

Fittings can be had in black, black//nickel, red//blue, blue, & nickel finish.

IDK what size the stock lines are or what the fuel pressure would do using different sized lines.

Word of advice... since I've been there and done that...

Fusebox in the fender will result in it filling with water... and then shutting down while you're driving down the road. Coomer did it to the Yelli Celi, and I paid a large sum of money to have the harness redone to put the fusebox back in the bay.


Unless you aren't ever EVER going to drive in the rain.



This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Oct 17, 2010 - 1:04 AM

And you've done most of this with only removing the fenders bumper and hood, without cutting and extending the wires?
Where will you run the fuel lines, under the chasis as well?

waterproof?

Yeah. I thought I waterproofed mine... Water will still find its way in.


Unless you want to make it SO waterproof that you have to remove the fender to change a fuse... which would be retarded.

tru water will find its way

I don't think Jeff needs to worry about water, he doesn't drive the car in any weather anymore

Good to see you around again, long time no see. I hope everything else is going ok