6G Celicas Forums

the picture shows front disc, but yes C-one rear slit ( slotted ) disc would work perfect for it, also grab some race spec pads that can withstand the heat ( EBC red ? )

would you happen to have a pic of the 5mm spacer i need to get it to work?

these are not my pictures, these are taken from Lubu's thread

but same thing ST205 rear brake system on a regular celica

you can see he used a few washers until he got the desired thickness





his overall thickness ( of the washers together ) was 5.5 mm


Link to his thread !

in case you want more details on it.

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Nov 19, 2010 - 11:41 AM

Thank you.. you guys are the best and all the post were very informative.. Now its time to buy and build.. Thanks for all the help...

are you looking to spend a lot?

there is some good stuff on rpmgarage.com
http://rpmgarage.com/new/detail/?tid=14395

shipping is still going to kill me on thos.. its 150 shipped to my location. Ill figure someting out... The good thing is that i know what i need now..

well being an avid drag racer. the racetrack MUST have 3 times the runoff as the length of the track, so if its a 1/4 mile then there must be 3/4 mile after the finish line. I have raed several 9 sec Supras that trap 150+ and my 7th gen celica traps in the high 130s so i can tell you the second you pull that parachute, you are gonna stop no problem. I have stock brakes on all my cars. Oh and its also a NHRA rule that if you trap 150 you must have a parachute

i know and have read about the role cage/Para shoot requirements. But those will be the last things to get installed on my car. My first few runs will prob be at ATCO in NJ because i like to race in Englishtown. So if i get kicked off the track at ATCO i wont have problems after i get the shoot installed to race at Englishtown =)

Ok, I have been working with a company that offers a big break upgrade using the Forged Superlite Internal 4 piston calipers for the front and rear. They have designed a kit using 12.8ish/12.3ish front and rear crossed drilled/slotted rotor that will keep the rear drub for the emergence break. They want 1900 for everything. I questioned the integrity of the Forged Superlite Internal 4 piston caliper and they said that it will be more than enough stopping power for my car since I’m only going to be using it for drag. They stated that they use those calipers on cars with weight well over 3k and on road courses with fast breaking for long periods of time and high MPH. I did research on them and it seems that the supra guys se them with no problem and my car will never weigh as much as a supra.

They suggested that for aprox 450 more they can upgrade the calipers to the Billet Superlite 6 Lug Mount. So do you guys think ill need to do the upgrade? And the ones that I am getting are made to be used on 17 inch rims. I have seen MR2’s go into the 9’s on 18 inch rims and drag radials so I don’t think 17’s will be too big.

Forged Superlite Internal

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperLis...?subname=Forged Superlite Internal


Dynapro 6 Piston Lug Mount

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperPro...mno=120-6584-FS

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 7, 2010 - 1:01 PM

both kits will do the job for you, so I think is a matter of personal preference at that point.
Personally if I have to choose between those 2 I would pick the cheaper one because it will be more than enough for the job, look just as nice and cost less.

i was thinking the same thing.. I might just go with the 4 piston setup and be done. I was reading more on the supra forums and it seems that the 6 pistons might be a little much for the street although this will end up being a track car.. and wow.. my GT is 2,580 lbs stock.. i thought it was like 2200 for some reason.. I need to work on that.

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 7, 2010 - 2:40 PM

so i got some options.. standard one piece rotors are crossed drilled.. should i leave them like that or do crossed/slotted or slotted only?

i wouldn't touch anything that was drilled and slotted....you'll just crack them.

Solid rotors or slotted rotors.....and if you're going to spend so much money on brakes you might as well do a two piece rotor.

ill just go with slotted and what is the big diff with 2 piece vs 1? do you really feel it would be that much of a diff? from what i understand there will be a little weight savings and they will also run cooler as well and have a slight bit longer pad life because of that. but for dd and track use, do you think ill need them? ill check the price and see what they tell me. i would guess they can only do the front inn 2 piece because of the drum in the rear for the e-brake.

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 9, 2010 - 12:44 AM

oh and i got the answer for 1 vs 2 here: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407519

yes advantages are weight and they run cooler, much higher warping resistance.

drag racing = weight is important

sudden high speed braking with large heat generation = cooling + warp resistance is important.

wow.. ok.. for the 4 piston fron/rear/slotted/drum ebrake is 2050. if i wanted to add a 2 pice slotted im looking at an additional 500 for the fronts. hmm..

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 10, 2010 - 2:14 PM

Wait, so now this is a 800whp daily driver/drag/track car?




Popcorn is done. brb.

those 500 bucks can lighten up another section of the car other than the front disc.

I looked into 2 piece brake disc, and unless I was getting them from sponsors for free, I would never pay for them.

Its a car.. it should be drven...



I’m thinking that.. but less rotational mass = faster.. Maybe I should ask for a weight diff to see if its even worth the 500..

This post has been edited by eazy2001x: Dec 10, 2010 - 3:24 PM