6G Celicas Forums

I had considered getting the ant-lag to work, but did a lot of reading into it....i can't afford to blow turbo's on a weekly basis haha. I'll likely replace the turbo in the future. This one has a tiny bit of shaft play. Pisses me off that there is no rebuild kit for it because I would prefer for it to run like new.

there are shops that can rebuild your turbo, but for the cost, it might be cheaper to do a replacement or CT27. call ATS and see what they can do with the CT20b. you might get lucky. i do believe that turbonetics can also rebuild the turbo and actually upgrade it at the same time.

ats diesel?

Small update....
Half the wiring harness has been removed, and the ecu has been unmounted. Dash is nearly ready to come out. carpet has been removed.

The list for tonight:
Disconnect power steering
Disconnect a/c
Disconnect throttle cable
Remove dash
Remove downpipe
Remove turbo
Remove turbo manifold

Btw...if you see anything I'm not using, then it's for sale. Make me an offer.

why are you pulling the dash?

Once ive removed all the parts I need I'll cut the frame up for disposal. Didnt know if anyone would be interested in the dash or the other parts im not using.

Alright
Small Update

I didn't get as much done as I had hoped to last night. I'll post pics later.

I was only able to drain the transmission, remove transmission cooler lines, detach brake booster and several other vacuum lines, pull the ecu, pull harness through firewall, and attempt to remove the passenger side axle.

Any advice on how to remove these damn axles?? They are really in there, or i'm going about this the complete wrong way. Also having trouble removing the downpipe. I can't get to the last bolt holding the heat shield to the downpipe, and after messing around trying to remove the alternator so I could get to it; I decided to call it a night.

Aside from that I should be on schedule to remove the engine from the frame today

when you say passenger side are you refering to the left side or the right side? when i pulled my right side axel (driver side cuz im in japan) it came right out with a little bit of leverage and a good pry spot. it gets agravating that Super Strut suspension is very different to mess with.

Yes. Japanese passenger side

I'll keep working on it. There aren't any retaining clips on the axles are there? Im not worried about the side with the mid shaft because that should come loose as soon as i unbolt it. but the axle on the japanese passenger side is really in there. There are two grooves on either side of the axle that i've been sticking my pry bar in to break it loose because it is too tight for me to get my pry bar between the transmission and the back of the axle. when i put my pry bar between the tranny and back of axle it looks like its just damaging the back of the axle.

both front axles use snap rings to hold them in at the end of the splines.

Got the motor out today!

backside of the huge plug we had to disconnect. it was a pain in the ass.

relays and fuses on the front right relax box that we completely tore down

what that area looks like without fuses mwahaha

just pics while working on it

disconnecting charcoal canister

engine mounts disconnected. motor, trans, exhaust, and subframe are being supported by a jack underneath the mid crossmember

motor sagging out of the bottom.

engine harness backed away from the side rail. i put it on top of the motor.

success


the disaster.


ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THOSE THREE WIRES THAT HAVE BEEN RIPPED FROM THEIR HARNESS GO TO??? I CAN'T FIND THE HARNESS ANYWHERE!!!

That looks like the Engine/ECu ground....usually connects to the back of the manifold...never seen the actual amount of wires, but i do know that the only "wire(s) that have that type of sheilding around it onthe back side of the engine, is the engine/ecu ground...

anywho, care to chime im with pics of a "still together" one?

Btw if it is the ground the it terminates into a normal ol' connector end that can be bolted down...there wouldnt be any bit more to it than that O- type connector..lol, sorry but my terminology is all messedup today..

This post has been edited by 3WayStunna: Jan 19, 2011 - 2:34 AM

nope, thats not the ecu ground, that goes thru the middle of the intake manifold.

looks to me like the map sensor wiring by its location.

::edit::
looking back thru your pics, i see the map sensor attached to the firewall, up till your starting to drop the motor down, then its gone.
did you remove it as you were dropping the motor?
definetly looks like it got pulled out of the back of the plug, possibly while dropping the motor out?

Oh god I hope not. Im certain we disconnected it from the fire wall before dropping the motor. I'm at work now so im going to be antsy all day until I can go home and find what has happened to it.

i think its either that (my first guess)
or the IAC valve plug.
both are 3 wire sensors.

::EDIT::
i can almost garantee its the map sensor wiring.

the wire colors are the same as the map sensor wiring.

brown=ground
red = 5v
grey/w black = signal

also, i can see the map sensor attached to the intake manifold by the vac line on the top passanger side of the intake, but the plug is not attached.

Should this be any cause for alarm? Should be a fairly easy fix....right?

yup, you should be able to cut and splice in the connector from your stock harness without issue, no biggie.

That's good news. Thanks for your input.

Small Update:

Got the downpipe/remaining exhaust off. Had to push the oil cooler aside just to fit a breaker bar down in there. Needless to say the entire task was full of gremlins, and a complete pain in the a$$.

Upper timing cover, alternator, a/c, and all the associated brackets have been removed.

At the bottom of the catalytic converter there is a plug that bolts in to a bung. This plug has an electrical connector that clips into a harness around where the a/c sits. Any clue what this is, and if there is any need in keeping it?

Also desided that i'm going to get the berk downpipe. I never want to deal with that crap again.

oh, and ps.....timing belt, cam seals, and tensioner look great.