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> turn signal indicators acting funny, ST205
post Jan 31, 2011 - 3:06 AM
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nammer

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Today I noticed that my left turn indicator was out while the right was still on (when low beams are turned on for night time driving). At first I thought it was because of a dead bulb...but when I flicked on the left turn signal...the left indicator blinked as usual...

In other words, when not signaling....only right indicator is on (when both is expected to be on but not blinking)
signal left...left blinks
signal right...right blinks

any ideas why this may be?


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post Jan 31, 2011 - 4:43 AM
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808celica



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the contact between the bottom of the bulb and socket isnt good. did you try swapping bulbs right to left???


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I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
post Jan 31, 2011 - 7:44 AM
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azian_advanced



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the turn signal bulbs have two filaments: the brighter one for flasher and the other just stays on with the headlights. one is probably burnt out.


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post Jan 31, 2011 - 2:31 PM
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nammer

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QUOTE (808celica @ Jan 31, 2011 - 1:43 AM) *
the contact between the bottom of the bulb and socket isnt good. did you try swapping bulbs right to left???


no i didnt yet. I will try this today. Thanks.

QUOTE (azian_advanced @ Jan 31, 2011 - 4:44 AM) *
the turn signal bulbs have two filaments: the brighter one for flasher and the other just stays on with the headlights. one is probably burnt out.


thanks. Ill switch the bulbs like 808 said and see if i need to get new bulbs.


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post Feb 28, 2011 - 4:47 AM
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match220



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the solder points on the bottom of one of your turn signal bulbs might be melted flat and connecting to each other, either that or I've seen the inside of the bulb short out somehow and it connects the two circuits.

If your solder points are melted together on the bottom of the bulb then check all of your ground connections. A bad ground will cause the bulb to generate more heat at the contact points, and it ends up getting hot enough to melt the solder and connect the two circuits. If this is your problem then fix your ground.

Either way, it sounds like you need to replace one of your bulbs.


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
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post Mar 10, 2011 - 1:24 PM
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justin3

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I had a question on my turn signals, i just changed my front turn signals 1157 from stock to LEDs and for some the reason when i hit the left/right signal they seem to be blinking a lot faster, is that normal?
post Mar 10, 2011 - 1:42 PM
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mkernz22



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you need an inline resistor because the LED's barely have an resistance compared to the regular bulbs. Autozone or advance sell inline resistors
post Mar 10, 2011 - 1:55 PM
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justin3

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i mean it dont bother me, do i need the inline resistor? is it bad to leave it the way it is?
post Mar 10, 2011 - 2:58 PM
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match220



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if your state requires a safety inspection on your car every year then you might fail. Here the blink rate has to be no more than 2 blinks per second, so we have to put the resistor in when changing to LEDs.


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 10, 2011 - 3:32 PM
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justin3

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how much do they run for the resistor? and are they easy to install?
post Mar 10, 2011 - 4:46 PM
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match220



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i just bought a pack of two from radioshack for no more than $2.50, and prices are higher here than in the mainland US. Part number is 271-0132. 10w10ohm resistors


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-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
post Mar 10, 2011 - 4:49 PM
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schmooot



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you can actually upgrade your flasher relay and replace your old one...they make ones specifically for LED's which blink the same regardless of load. I think they are only $10-$15 and saves you cutting your wires and soldering in resistors at every bulb


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post Mar 18, 2011 - 4:46 PM
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nammer

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it's been a while and i still haven't done anything to fix this lol

does anyone know what bulb type GT-Four turn indicators are? Also, do the bulbs have an amber tint or are they just clear? My guess is clear...


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post Mar 18, 2011 - 7:29 PM
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schmooot



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1156 bulbs for the GT4 turns, they are clear as the lens is orange...if you upgrade to clear lenses then you need to put in an amber bulb...chromed preferrably

This post has been edited by schmooot: Mar 18, 2011 - 7:30 PM


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post Apr 1, 2011 - 3:13 PM
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nammer

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QUOTE (schmooot @ Mar 18, 2011 - 5:29 PM) *
1156 bulbs for the GT4 turns, they are clear as the lens is orange...if you upgrade to clear lenses then you need to put in an amber bulb...chromed preferrably


Thanks! Fixed!...just a dead bulb....there are two bulbs in the indicator housing...one was just dead =D


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post Apr 1, 2011 - 4:37 PM
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Rusty



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didn't think the Japanese Celica's had double filaments in their turns?


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post Apr 2, 2011 - 2:17 AM
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delusionz



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Yeah Just T10's in there for JDMs. You can change the flasher unit for an LED compatible one, no idea where the factory flasher is located.


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Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR
GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC
269awhp / 273ft-lbs
post Apr 2, 2011 - 3:38 PM
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schmooot



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QUOTE (Rusty @ Apr 1, 2011 - 2:37 PM) *
didn't think the Japanese Celica's had double filaments in their turns?

mine doesn't, just the single filament bulb. weird. nammer what the hell man? what do you mean there are two bulbs in your front turns?

This post has been edited by schmooot: Apr 2, 2011 - 3:42 PM


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post Apr 4, 2011 - 5:47 PM
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nammer

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QUOTE (schmooot @ Apr 2, 2011 - 1:38 PM) *
QUOTE (Rusty @ Apr 1, 2011 - 2:37 PM) *
didn't think the Japanese Celica's had double filaments in their turns?

mine doesn't, just the single filament bulb. weird. nammer what the hell man? what do you mean there are two bulbs in your front turns?


Haha i don't know...I pulled it out and saw two bulbs... laugh.gif...one that flashes to when i flick my turn signal, and another one that just stays on when I turn the light switch one click, and two clicks


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post Apr 5, 2011 - 1:08 AM
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azian_advanced



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i'm curious now... pic?


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