6G Celicas Forums

I have literally checked everything on this car, had engine harness redone for 3sgte st205, ( originally 5sfe ) coil checks out good, but have power going to coil when key turned on, as well as negative side of coil has constant power, is this right???? Is something screwed up in the wiring? As well, checked an injector clip, and have constant power to black/ orange wire, but nothing on the other...when trying to crank, could my coil check out good from a multimeter, and still be shot or something? Have no spark coming from coil, to coil wire, really driving me nuts right now. I'm plugin, but I'm not playin.

silly question, but the ignitor is making good ground thru the bracket to the firewall, right?

Very good question actually, yes, just thought of that last night and scraped the bracket and firewall down to nice bear shiny metal, and torqued tight against firewall, coil is tight against igniter as well,
Reason why I keep going back to wiring, is because I had spark before harness was converted....now after conversion, I have no spark, I guess it is possible for a part to fail consequently in that time but I've checked everything, Am2 fuse, Am1 fuse, ignition fuse 7.5a, igniter, coil, grounds-I have 3 total, heard of this problem in toyotas about something called a condensor inside the distributer that can meltdown causing my problem, or a noise filter, or both...was told to disconnect which ever one the Problem is, and car will start, but I don't know where these items are???

in theory it could be wiring...but they shouldnt be touching any of that stuff in the harness anyway..its just one wire on the interior (clutch start switch), and a handfull at the EA1 plug in the fusebox that need to be worked with that are for the w2a ic system, and the fuel pump relay.

What about if I don't have a water pump for my w2a unit, and bought a bosch aftermarket pump to circulate water off a toggle in dash switch, cause that's what I did, and harness was wired as if I was running a front mount cause that's how they wired it when I told them what I was doing, so the clip that plugs into intercooler pump has been eliminated from harness, as well as my intercooler level sensor clip, it's probably routed in the harness to the right spots to eliminate error codes, but if something was wrong in this circuit, could that cause my problem...

nope, the car will run without the pump being wired correctly.
if there is a problem with the IC pump, or level sensor, it will set a code 54.

the fuel circuit and intercooler pump circuit run really close especially where the plugs for the relays are, and is easy to mess something up on the fuel pump relay while working with the pump relay.

make sure is not a fuel issue you are having rather than ignition

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Mar 26, 2011 - 12:05 PM

Ok, that's what I thought as well, figured maybe there was more to it. How bout the coil...is it odd to you that when key in on position, the clip that plugs in to it has two wires....both light up as constant powers, is that strange,




Well, I do smell fuel when cranking......can that circuit cause no spark? If hooked up wrong?

Where do you suggest I look for this, in the engine bay driverside fuse box?

that will depend on how they converted your harness, I did mine myself and I still have the ST205 factory relays on a box mounted by the radiator.

HEY TRY THIS OK are you ready! send it to dr tweak save your self now before u mess somthing up like i did lol i tired to wire my cadlina harness oh yeah i messed it up bad so call him and just let him do it for u it would have cost me just 500 dollars to get it done the first time since i messed it up so bad it cost my a 1000+

Iirc he had the harness done by tweak.

Ok Pressure, here it goes, what do you think of this, pick-up coil, the clip that goes to distributer, R, Y, B, L, colored wires right, traced wires back to C4, C5, C17, C18, are the pinouts for the ECU clip C......Well, red, black, and yellow are correct, but the solid blue wire from distributer, turns into a blue with a thick black stripe at ECU pin.....there is a solid blue wire in this clip, but it's going to C 21 or 22 ( can't remember ) will have to see when I'm home. Point is maybe these two wires need to be reversed?? Regardless, I will take loom out of ECU/firewall tonight. And test distributer wires to ECU, make sure there is a path....

My 205 had problems with the relays I would lose spark and my gauges would go to 0...a good kick into the relays got it running again....Ive had it ziptied as best as zipties can zip tie

Lol, nice man, just did ohm test on distributer, I believe you hold multimeter on G- and test with the other end G2 G1 and NE my readings were 154ohms across the board, except NE, that read 191ohms......big difference there, don't know the ohm range for the disstributer to be good though,

If the fuel resister shorts out, could that cause my problem of no spark????

i'm pretty sure if the resistor went out you wouldn't be getting fuel pressure.

Do you get a signal from the cam sensor at all? You should see a on off on off on off type of signal correct?

I will have to check that, when home from work, I will check the fuel resister first, Manuel says operation is 0.73ohms. Anything else, replace.
Where exactly is the cam sensor.... Distributer side or timing belt side???

if you had your harness done by tweak then its right check the Distributer coil wen im working on cars and they wont start i find this to be my problem most of the time check your relay's fuses and make sure your engine is grounded your fuel has nothin at all to do with your car not gettin spark i can tell u that right now check your starter relay to by the ecu but if u have power going to the Distributer then your problem is the coil i can put my money on it and if not then its your ecu its not gettin the signal to the Distributer coil telling it to spark your ecu might be bad but if your have power to the Distributer there is no reason at all u should not be getting a spark unless u have a bad coil and remember just because its new doesn't mean its good they seel bad coils all the time make sure your rotor button is good to it maybe bad or your cap

even if u have a bad cam sensor your car will still spark ive had that problem before to the way u see if the cam sensor is bad the best way is to take it out and see if it will pick up anything metal or steel if it doesn't it is bad now if u have a bad crank sensor your car will not start because the cam sensor keep it in time the crank sensor does both it lets your ecu know the car is trying to start and it work with the cam sensor to keep your car in time