6G Celicas Forums

Agreed. There are a few good threads around with enough solid info in it for even a beginner to do it.

Pressure2: thanks for the links thats exactly what I was looking for.

I'm just worried about doing my own clutch incase I install it wrong and majorly screw something. My mechanic skills are minimal, and the most work I've done was install lowering springs. Is i possible to do with a couple jackstands and basic tools?(Sockets, wrenches etc.)

okay so I priced it out on lithiatoyotaparts.com and its approxiately 260 dollars canadian shipped, haven't checked out partznet yet though, but the prices were basically the same, but shipping will probably be a bit more.

Should I go this route instead of the exedy oem replacement?

When I ordered my clutch from Napa a few years ago, it was an Exedy clutch kit. Also the factory clutches do last forever, mine lasted 178K miles although I did drive mine until I could almost sit and idle in gear at a stop sign.

it really depends on your budget.
the exedy replacement will be fine, provided its installed correctly.
hard to beat the feel of a new OEM clutch tho..its just SOOOO light and slippable.

Isn't that a bad thing that its "slippable" ?

no.
by slippable, i mean that its super easy to ease into gear, the clutch engages very smoothly.
unlike a performance clutch thats more on/off with a hard bite when you engage the clutch.

Ohhhhh okay makes sense.
Well I'm pretty sure I"ve decided on the OEM clutch over the excedy replacement.
Gunna order from lithiatoyota parts.
The little extra money will probably be worth it in the long run.

Still haven't decided if I'm gunna do it myself or not though.
Thanks for all the info.

Just want to confrim before I order, all I need is the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing correct?

Yup.
If yo call them, they should be able to get you the "kit" with all that and a plastic alignment tool

i just found out that the 7A-FE (ST) uses the same clutch as the 1ZZ and 2ZZ. Southbend has a fantastic clutch

Thanks for the help Pressure2, Just finished ordering the parts so hopefully they are here by the time the snow is gone and my acrs is ready to drive!

Hei!! i need a wiring diagram or manual of Toyota 89661-12431 Denso ECU .. anybody have any idea plz let me know. thanks

Yeah, in another thread.

^ lol.
so I called a few places,the two chepest were 480 and 650, and both will charge an extra 80 to resurface the flywheel.
One of the other shops said I should also change the slave cylinder while I'm in there.
Are they right or just trying to get more money out of me?

GL with the clutch.

Just recently did mine with a friend. Took us 12 hours.

Hardest part IMO was the rear mount and crossmember removal. We messed with it for hours, ignoring the guide we had, which simply said remove the bolts from the block instead of from under the crossmember. Once we did that it was butter.

Have multiple jacks, wood blocks, hoist, and plenty of buckets for fluids. Don't forget to remove your top radiator hose when lowering the engine like I did and bust the top off of the rad. Standard metric sockets, and one big one for the axle nuts, i think its like a 32 MM, i'd have to look when i get home.

There is a step by step on one of the stickies here. no pics, but easy enough to follow.

Hope that helps! The memories of that day are still quite fresh, was one hell of learning experiance. Once done I felt quite less intimidated to do serious work on her now.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Apr 7, 2011 - 8:49 AM

Yea I don't think I'll be doing it myself.
I had surgery on my wrist and have pins and stuff in and the cast comes off next week.
But its probably gunna be stiff fo a while so I don't really want to wait till its good to go to start working on it.
Should the slave cylinder be changed as well when doing the clutch, thats what I have been told, but not sure if i should or not.

oh yeah if you had a cast on your wrist will NOT be strong enough to do this job, the tranny is super heavy. as for the slave cylinder, you dont have to replace it, in fact dont open the fluid system at all. just move it out of the way

Alright,
A mechanic said that I should do just because if it happens to need replacing down the road, it will cost close to the amount of replacing the clutch, so I should just do it now to avoid the hassle later on.
I found a place that will do it for 480, plus 80 to resurface the flywheel.

Is that a reasonable price, or should I keep looking around?

Thats quite the reasonable price, cheap enough that I would question it =P - Lowest I found in my area, excluding going to the shady tree mechanics, was 800 without plate, or slave.

There shouldn't be a need to change the slave if it is working correctly. Nor would cost anywhere near the cost of getting a clutch done as its fairly easy to get to.

Doing it yourself you wouldn't drain the system at all, most you would need to do is, re attach to the casing, line up the arm, and bleed the line if need be. Real easy to get to, just have someone push down on your clutch pedal while looking at the transmission. The module that pushes the arm on the trannie is the slave, and you'll notice a bleeder valve on it too. Real easy to replace.