 Code 54, Does this put computer in lymph mode? |
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 Apr 2, 2011 - 4:47 PM
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Enthusiast  Joined Jan 10, '11 From Trail BC Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%)  |
Question for all you gurus out there...if the st205 throws. Code 54, which I believe is faulty IC pump, or coolant level sensor, or both...will this cause ECU to go into lymph mode/protection mode, meaning will it cut your boost in half to about 6-7psi,
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Apr 2, 2011 - 5:37 PM
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 Moderator Joined Oct 1, '02 From fall river, ma Currently Offline Reputation: 13 (100%) |
Yes. It's called "limp" mode. (aka "safe mode")
The ecu dont don't allow the tvsv to open (if you havent bypassed it) It also locks the ecu into a Map with very retarded timing, and very rich fuel tables. -------------------- Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)
 13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 9:16 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I bridged the sensor on mine and code 54 went away, But I'm wondering if this is what caused the car to fail to notice a non functioning IC pump leading to the overheating i experienced not so long ago...
Or atleast when I rev the engine with the cap off I can't see it swirl anymore... -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 10:48 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 10, '11 From Trail BC Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 3, 2011 - 9:16 AM)  I bridged the sensor on mine and code 54 went away, But I'm wondering if this is what caused the car to fail to notice a non functioning IC pump leading to the overheating i experienced not so long ago... Or atleast when I rev the engine with the cap off I can't see it swirl anymore... I would say yes to that, because you bridged the sensor, the ECU has now been over ridden, thus not being able to tell you your pump is not working.. |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 11:16 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
so the only way it can tell the pump isnt working is by the water level sensor? because i kept it full, i thought it was just a faulty sensor because in the past its always been tricky to get it to play ball
-------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 12:18 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 10, '11 From Trail BC Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 3, 2011 - 11:16 AM) so the only way it can tell the pump isnt working is by the water level sensor? because i kept it full, i thought it was just a faulty sensor because in the past its always been tricky to get it to play ball Yeah those sensors are extremely finicky, but that is correct, cause it was bridged, code was eliminated, but, because of being bridged, ECU was not able to tell you your pump was not working, by having your engine light come on...hey, I would have done the same thing you did if i encounterd a problem like that, kind of a freak thing that your pump would go, especially in the situation you had....but I guess all parts wear out some time or another. |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 12:56 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
D'oh.
-------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 1:45 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 10, '11 From Trail BC Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 3, 2011 - 1:56 PM) D'oh. Lol! |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 2:11 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 10, '10 From Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
It should still be able to tell if the pump is not working even if you bridge that connector (all that sensor is, is an on off switch, you've just got it permanently set to off now). It's got a separete circuit that is supposed to be able to tell if the pump is coming on or not. My 205 was giving me code 54 even with that connector bridged. The pump was seized up (one of the 2 bearings inside it was completely seized, and a few of the connections on the stator were burned up too). I was able to fix it for about 2$. (a new bearing, and a bit of soldering and its been working great ever since..)
If your not up to the task of taking it apart yourself.. any starter/alt rebuilding spot can probably do it for you (they are pretty well just a wiper motor with an impeller on the end). There is a pretty good DIY instruction thing at http://gtfour.co.uk/ under the How to > Repair/maitain > overhaul IC pump The easist way to tell if its working or not is to pull the cap off the intercooler and rev the motor to see if it will pull the level of the fluid down.. (another tip about this is that if it IS pulling the fluid down, you have to fill the ic up while the pump is on otherwise that level sensor is likely going to tell you that its low and throw the light on, so hold the throttle, fill it to the top, and then put the cap back on while the pump is still running.. kind of a pain in the ass haha) If you want to really confirm its operation you can jump power to it through the relay which is located in the small relay holder near the rad. (I don't recommend this if your not confident that you know exactly what you are doing, as if you jump power down the control side of the connector you will likely cook the ecu) |
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Apr 3, 2011 - 6:54 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 10, '11 From Trail BC Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (Geddes @ Apr 3, 2011 - 3:11 PM) It should still be able to tell if the pump is not working even if you bridge that connector (all that sensor is, is an on off switch, you've just got it permanently set to off now). It's got a separete circuit that is supposed to be able to tell if the pump is coming on or not. My 205 was giving me code 54 even with that connector bridged. The pump was seized up (one of the 2 bearings inside it was completely seized, and a few of the connections on the stator were burned up too). I was able to fix it for about 2$. (a new bearing, and a bit of soldering and its been working great ever since..) If your not up to the task of taking it apart yourself.. any starter/alt rebuilding spot can probably do it for you (they are pretty well just a wiper motor with an impeller on the end). There is a pretty good DIY instruction thing at http://gtfour.co.uk/ under the How to > Repair/maitain > overhaul IC pump The easist way to tell if its working or not is to pull the cap off the intercooler and rev the motor to see if it will pull the level of the fluid down.. (another tip about this is that if it IS pulling the fluid down, you have to fill the ic up while the pump is on otherwise that level sensor is likely going to tell you that its low and throw the light on, so hold the throttle, fill it to the top, and then put the cap back on while the pump is still running.. kind of a pain in the ass haha) If you want to really confirm its operation you can jump power to it through the relay which is located in the small relay holder near the rad. (I don't recommend this if your not confident that you know exactly what you are doing, as if you jump power down the control side of the connector you will likely cook the ecu) Nice info man... That's why I love this place, you learn something new everyday,  |
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Apr 6, 2011 - 3:51 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
When I rev the motor, the water doesnt go down.
Is there some other logic to it? Like a certain temperature, Or length of drive or what? The water sort of ripples from vibrations, but unlike before it doesnt swirl and go down. Is the pump expensive from Toyota? I was thinking of getting 2 general water pumps of 500gph and making an ice box for a custom system -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Apr 6, 2011 - 7:06 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 10, '10 From Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
No the fluid should go down regardless of temperature. Clear the code, start the car and try it immediately.. if it doesnt work at that time.. its not working ever.
My toyota dealer couldnt get me a pump.. and the price from the importers around here was about 800$ canadian.. which is.. absoulutely insane.. However where you are, you may have better luck at your dealer  I would pull it apart following those instructions I posted before you get a new one though.. like I said.. I was able to fix mine for 2$.. haha The thing about a custom set up on this is that if you look at a wiring diagram for the intercooler set up.. there is a 5 wire connector going to that pump (although only 2 wires actually make it to the pump itself). If that whole rig isnt working properly it will still throw code 54.. unless you have an aftermarket ecu that can disable that. The other option I was going to try if I wasnt able to fix my pump was to repalce the pump itself by soldering in a new one in place of the old one while leaving the other resistance wires in place.. I don't know if this will work while keeping the light off or not, if anyone else has any experience as far as that goes, feel free to chime in . A buddy of mine had a spare bosche one kicking around from his set up so I had one readily available for me to try out at no cost if it didn't work out.. but as I said.. I never ended up having to.. All of this is assuming the pump itself is bad of course (which it likely is as the seal on the impeller shaft tends to allow coolant by so if it has sat at some point in its life it corrodes the inside of the pump. Mine was so full of rust I could barely get it apart.. ), so also be sure to check your wiring out.. make sure you've got power and ground for the pump too! |
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Apr 6, 2011 - 10:59 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 10, '11 From Trail BC Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
delusionz, if you go on the buy/sell forum, there is a factory pump that bsamps is selling for $120.00 i believe, pg2 or 3, check it out.....geddes is right, didnt get a pump with my swap, bought a bosch pump, and Tweak as we speak is trying to wire it so it doesnt throw the 54 code....once i get harness back, will let you know how it works out, incase you dont want bsamps second hand pump, and want to go bosch pump.....i bought mine for $115.00, but, mods need to be done to work properly.
bsamps is a good guy, and his part i know will work great, i can vouch for him, done bussiness with in the past... 
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Apr 7, 2011 - 2:22 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I looked at the 205 IC PUMP overhaul guide, They list bearing numbers from a UK supplier, I don't think they will cross reference in NZ will they?
ill find out what those blank wires do soon, they could possibly just terminate at the plug. I know window washer motors have a 3rd or 4th wire which doesnt go anywhere. -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Apr 7, 2011 - 8:39 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 25, '06 From Box Elder, South Dakota Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
The bearings should be standard types, meaning you should be able to find them at any brick and mortar store or online shop. Im in japan and found those bearings in the same guide for about 10 bucks for both at a local beaing shop (lucked out with that).
-------------------- (\__/)
(='.'=) This is bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination. |
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Apr 8, 2011 - 7:37 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 10, '10 From Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE (3WayStunna @ Apr 7, 2011 - 9:39 AM) The bearings should be standard types, meaning you should be able to find them at any brick and mortar store or online shop. Im in japan and found those bearings in the same guide for about 10 bucks for both at a local beaing shop (lucked out with that). Yup same here in east canada.. walked into a tranny/bearing shop and they had them right in stock.. they were 2$ here 
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Apr 11, 2011 - 10:43 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I got quotes back from Toyota NZ,
Level sensor $138 Pump $95 Postage $9 NZD -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Apr 13, 2011 - 8:48 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 10, '10 From Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Hahaha.. thats a far cry from what the importers wanted here
95 is much more reasonable
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