6G Celicas Forums

if you can get ahold of some info from a manual there are specs on the resistance of the distributor for the coils. I just had to check the same thing on my 3s distributor.

Atleast now you know that it is a spark issue not something else. What year celica is it again? i could try to pull up some info for your from my work.

1994 5sfe. Yep, glad ive got that sorted but its strange, I wouldnt expect it to start at all, anytime if it had no spark but I can still roll start it most of the time

Okaaaaaay...

Today took the car (after roll starting) to the shops and came back, no worries. Went to roll start again and it didnt start. Tried my luck at cranking and the car started. Put it into first and went to take off and the car died, no electrics worked, no cranking, NOTHING. Disconnected the battery for ten min and put terminals back on, negative then positive, as I was putting the positive terminal back on it sparked HEAPS, far more than normal, and smoke started coming out from underneath the startermotor (not from the starter, just the area) aswell as melting a bit of the + battery terminal. I have no idea whats going on and I really need some help...

do u have a sound system with a compaciter? maybe the cap released its energy making the big jolt

No sound system. Pretty much all stock.

You do know you hook up the positive first, then the neg side for the battery (and disconnect in opposite order)?

Ive always done negative first, thats what ive been told. Weird, regardless the problem happened before the terminals were removed and its still not workin for me :\. Im thinking its a bad earth but i'm not very good with electrics

You still pulling that code?

yeah

To me it sounds like your Idler control valve has gone bad, this is very common to our cars. The perpouse of the valve is to bypass the throttle body, the throttle body is controlled by your accelerator pedal when you have your foot of the pedal the throttle body is completely closed. When it is closed there is no air going into the engine, thats were the IAC valve comes in, it lets the air enter I'm assuming you also have a rough idle? thats because the valve is filthy and can't maintain a good idle, it maintains a good idle by opening and closing rapidly.

-FiveS-FTE

It idles fine, no problem what so ever. The iacv is clear, ive had a look through all that and its fine, Ive fixed the starter motor today and now theeres no sparking but still having cranking problems car died again today and wouldnt even roll start, I had to get it towed from where i was. Im am pretty sure its a distributor problem but where to get one that doesnt put me completely out of pocket i dont know. Getting sick of this car now.

changed the dizzy for a brand new one that came with coil and rotor andcap aswell, still no start

i read somewhere that ur fuel pump will make too much noise when the wire are not connected properly

(the walbro do lots of noise , u can hear it from outside the car when the wire are not fixe solid)




btw, im getting sick of my car too lol, wont turn over, that worst lol

This post has been edited by Needles: May 7, 2011 - 12:03 PM

have you tried replacing the ignitor?

lol yep, know that feeling well needles.

I changed the igniter with another used one from a camry. It didnt make any difference so i changed it back to the original one from my car and I got it started, very low idle, revved it a couple times and about 1 minute later it died again and would crank but not start again. its definatly got fuel, I still am getting no spark or atleast a very weak spark. so far the Distributor, cap, coil, rotor, sparkplug leads, igniter, starter motor and battery have been changed... Im fresh outta ideas

found a bit of oil on the spark plug in the 1st cylinder..

This post has been edited by PolliS_5S-FE: May 7, 2011 - 4:34 PM

Theres no spark on any cylinders

I'm having a similar issue with my car. I'm thinking it may be the distributor as well as ther eis some oil on mine. I also already replaced the igniter & the fuel pump so I know its not those two things.

The problem with my car when it would randomly start was the temp sensor located at the rear of the top water hose. When I would wiggle the wiring harness car would start . then die. Well I found out the temp sensor there (right hand one from front view) was cracked inside after a new one it never happenned again. Worth a check

maybe check ur ground setup....

grounds seem to be ok, i added another t oday and still no run. would the temp sensor being knackered cause no spark though.. :s??