6G Celicas Forums

Well I should have saw this coming.
Put the new strut and spring insulator and mount on the passenger side which was the one making noise.
And sure enough, it still makes the sound.

I have no clue what it is.
Although the rotor on the passenger side can move in and out about 1/4" when the wheel is off, and the driver side doesn't move at all, so I'm thinking that may be the problem.

Any one got any ideas?
Help would be great.
Cause I have absolutely no clue what it could be.

So me and a buddy crawled under there today and were pretty determined to figure out what it was.
We pryed around at the bushings and didn't really find much and were pretty stumped.
So we put the wheel back on and dropped the car, and tried to make the car clunk again just by moving the wheel forward and back by hand.

We managed to make it clunk, so one of us clunked the wheel while the other looked, and we found that the rear bushing on the lower control arm was the culpret.
Everytime it would clunk, the lowere control arm was pivoting forward about an inch or so forward and back, so I guess when the break is applied it puts a force on the LCA which caused that clunk only at initial breaking.

I find this kind of odd, because the noise was not there before the clutch was replaced, and after it was one the clunk was present. I'm thinking mayb just having them working around the front end agitated the already worn out bushing enough to produce a noise.

The other thing that kind of pisses me off is that the second shop could not figure it out, because they said they checked all the bushings and that some were a little worn, but couldn't produce that noise, and made me go and change the struts and the axle. Now I know the struts needed to be changed, but to have to change the axle when it was not needed was quite the waste of money, so now I have a perfectly good axle sitting in my garage.

But on the other hand, i had been looking into the poly urethane bushings from gt4-racing.eu already, so now I have the chance to upgrade, and hopefully my car can be back on the road ASAP.

Thanks for everyones help, I appreciate it alot, I dunno what I'd do without 6GC.net, I've learned so much already ust from reading.

And If anyone is looking for a GT passenger side axle, I may sell it for the right price.

thats great that you found the problem =)

Yea, its too bad I had to dump all that cash into it, but at least it was fixing one thing that already needed to be done haha.

yea im going to have to get new suspension soon, thinking of progressive springs and new struts

I have the same problem with my 94. It's that bushing at the base of the rear adjustable control arm. Both sides clunk when I go over bumps. Dealer wants $300 for both sides, so I just have to come up with the money.

I just called Toyota and its even more in Canda.
ITs 256 per side, for each control arm.
They don't sell teh bushings separately.

Your better off to just get the poly urethane bushings for 100 bucks, and put them in.
Even if you ahve to apy someone to do it, it will probably be cheaper than buying new control arms and installing them yourself.
I'm planning to get teh Poly urethane bushings, ASAP, and Ill try to put them in myself with a buddy.
It doesn't look too difficult

Does energy suspension make bushings for them? I would totally do that. That way I wouldn't have to get an alignment. I already have the bushings for the sway bars by energy.

I'm pretty sure they don't.
As far as I know there is only one person who makes them.
Theya re polyurethane bushings, so it will improve your suspension as well not just make it stock.
But I just ordered mine from here: http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...spension-bushes Because thats what most of the other members are using and I've heard good things.

And I couldn't find anywhere else that had them.

Wow thanks for that link. That'll help for sure.

Yea no problem man.
I just found it myself actually. ordered from them on tuesday:)
Hopefully I can tackle the task of installing them myself.
The most work i've ever done on my car was lowering it.

Well the car is basically ready for the strut and the bushings to be installed, just have to remove the control arms, and wait for the parts to get here.
Unfortunately, Canada post is on strike and only deliver a couple of days of the week ATM, so hopefully it doesn't take too long for the bushings to get here..

We're almost half way through the summer and you haven't driven your car yet? ouch. It seems like there's always one problem after another. Well goodluck with the repairs. Hope you get the car back on the road asap.

Yea its been a nightmare.
Just one thing after another, and its all been out of my control.
Shouldn't be a problem gettin it done, as long as nothing else comes up once its done..

when its happen to me whit my old 5gc 1991, (paid 300 buck) i didnt want to spend money , so i fix it for 0$ in 10 minute, putting whit hammer some little nail inside around the bushing, and cut some rubber in circlev( buy strap rubber and cut it) and put it on the back of the bushing and put back the bolt whit some washer to push the rubber , it will affect the movement if you tightened too much, but

pro- its work, no shaking no more

cons- u lose comfort and stability, since its metal to metal, and no more bushing
but u feel more the road from the rear, not a big difference for normal driving,
u have keep the wheel centered to keep alignement- tough (u can change the alignement later whit some more pin inside the bushing
but i wont suggest to do that,

but for someone who dont have money or want to fix it now, it can help
that least on my old celica till she died

This post has been edited by Needles: Jun 16, 2011 - 7:15 AM

You want me to put nails in my bushings?
No thanks.
I don't want to ghetto rig my car like yours..

A buddy came over tonight to give me a hand.
On the driver side we got every bolt out for the lower control arm, except we ran into the endlink dilema.
Could not get the end link off, so we moved to the passender side.
On the passenger side, there was no problems with the endlink, except the bolt on the control arm that threads into the sub frame (19mm), came out about an inch and will not come out any farther by turning it with a wrench.
It started to rain, and I don't have a garage to work in so we had to call it quits.

With the endlink, I tried using the allen key method and a wrench, and the allen key started to slop so I left it so it didn't strip.
We then tried to hold it with a vice grip and turn it with a socket/wrench, and it didn't budge.
I want to avoid having to cut the endlink at all costs, cause I can't afford new endlinks right now.
If I do have to cut it, is it a harm to drive the car without the front sway bar hooked up for a while till the endlinks came in the mail?

Not sure what to do with the last control arm bolt, has anyone else ran into this problem while removing their lower control arms?

it's ok to drive without the front sway bar hooked up but you will have to drive slowly through turns and avoid large bumps while avoiding sudden movement with the steering wheel to avoid body roll. a temporary solution would be to get some wire and loop it through the sway bar and control arm several times, but you'd still need to buy a pair of links asap if you do.

Yea, I'd just be thinking about driving it like that while waiting for endlinks to get here. and I twould only be on the driver side, because we managed to get the passenger side off.
I'm still gunna give it another shot today later on after the car show.