6G Celicas Forums

Well I replaced my clutch last year with the help of my mechanic buddy and it seems it was time to do it again....

Out of no where, one day i was driving and all the sudden between gears, the clutch wouldn't disengage. So I checked all the normal stuff, master and slave were good, made sure the shift linkages weren't bent. Unfortunately, everything was fine on the outside

So my worst thoughts were realized and I figured it was probably one of the the pressure plate tabs broke (last time we put my new clutch in with a hurry, so the OEM kit we got didn't include a pressure plate)

I've never done a clutch job by myself, plus without a hydraulic lift, so this is a first for me for sure. (I'm more of the computer nerdy type, all this hands on dirtiness is pretty new to me)





Popped the trans out earlier today to find this




same reason I replaced my clutch last year, one of the springs broke on the clutch disc.
I guess I just shift way too rough?


Anyone have any good suggestions on an after market clutch I should go with stronger springs to make sure this doesn't happen again?
I'm just running stock, 5fse, nothing special. I'm surprised I was able to break the clutch so soon with a stock engine.

thanks for your input

**(BTW) Kudos to chacha and his trans removal write up!**
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78327
Sure helped me get through this smoothly!

This post has been edited by Rymaster: Jun 7, 2011 - 11:56 PM

Just go with oem or exedy, and get your flywheel machined. What kit did you go with last time?

No way its from shifting too rough, I've driven my car for 3 years hard and I don't even know if the clutch is oem.

i like spec

Last time was an OEM clutch i believe. It was at my friend's shop and it was ordered through their kunkles parts delivery service. (they literally delivered it in like 1 hour)

I did a little bit of searching on the forum and was looking at Southbend clutches. http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/
Looks like I'd be dropping around $200ish

Looks like I can get an OEM one for $95 http://www.allreplacement.com/index.php?ro...mp;path=1_2_3_4



I really want this, lol. or would this just be total overkill?
http://www.clutchstar.com/product/f1-racin...race-clutch-kit

^^

I'll probably just end up going with an exedy stage 1, or a southbend stage 1 clutch, depending on pricing

I was looking at possibly lighting the flywheel too while I have the trans down, however I doubt this will happen. Only light flywheel I can find under $400 is the 10lbs and that is just too light for a DD. I was looking at possibly getting a 15lbs or so, just slightly lighter then out 18lbs OEM ones. Plus, I also read a lot about the aluminum not being as good as the steel, and blahlabhlabh.

This post has been edited by Rymaster: Jun 8, 2011 - 5:28 AM

I myself had exedy organic stage 1 on my previous st and it worked very well

I have a southbend stage 2 kevlar kit and I love it.

get the fidanza flywheel and southbend clutch, call southbend and talk to Andy in the import dept. tell him i sent you and he will hook you up. I really should be a supplier for them.

dont worry about the light flywheel. dont get scared from what you read online, once you drive with it, you will love it! TRUST ME IN THIS!

another thing you should get is ARP flywheel bolts for the 4A-GE. you should never re-use flywheel bolts because they are torque to yield and they never have the same strength a 2nd time. get the ARP bolts from here http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_...products_id=372 oh and these are re-useable

If your running a stock 5sfe, dont plan to seriously upgrade(turbo), and dont race the car then there is no need to upgrade everything with southbend and ARP. Southbend and arp are both AWESOME companys that make incredible products, but at an oem level it is complete overkill and a stage 1 exedy or other will do you just fine for a fraction of the cost.

ARP bolts are cheaper than OEM, thats why i mentioned them, and southbend has a good non expensive OEM replacement. and you have a real person you can talk to for tech support if neded.

I understand this, but at the same time, i blew through this OEM clutch within the year. I just want to make sure whatever i put in is a little tougher do the next one doesn't do the same exact thing. I can't find a exedy stage 1 for the 5sfe......looks like they only make one for the 1.8 SL engine.

Ok well then i would definitely recommend you to go southbend and arp as previously stated then. That way the clutch will probably outlive most other parts in the celica(make sure to get an entire kit, not just the disk). Also either get OEM replacement or stage 1, do not go any higher or it will make it a pain to daily drive.(OEM will be just like your old one, stage one wont allow you to ride the clutch as much like you can with the OEM)

Sounds good! I'm just going to skip the whole lightened flywheel idea. Its just not worth it for a stock engine plus they are costly as poopoo!

offtopic:

is that a huge band-aid on your dent? If yes then that's just awesome lol

yeah it is lol. my buddy backed into my car with his big truck's tail hitch one night, my car sits too low and he didn't even see it in his mirror.

insurance cut me a ~$3,500 check for the damages, which is well more then I paid for the car itself, so i just left it for now. Restoration is something I can only think about for now until i have the means.

The front is all multi-colored too from a tree the jumped out infront of me a few years ago. We have some serious wild growth problems around here..

These bolts will fit for using the stock 5fse flywheel again?
Just wondering cause my flywheel reads 5Y3 on the back and I can't really find an other bolts for it lol.

Reviews say they are longer then stock bolts, so I can just use spacers if so?