6G Celicas Forums

Slight change of plans- Because I'd like to drive the car after I swap a BEAMS into it, I won't be putting the Redtop in my gray Celica. The Redtop will be going into this...



This weekend. I could put it in my gray car but there are still a few parts I need before I could drive it and it's more cost-effective to put it into a car that I already know is totally drivable. The Greytop will eventually end up in my gray Celica, but not until I've repaired some damage to my Lexus. And probably not until after I pay the Lexus off. And even then, I might either swap a 2JZ-GTE into the IS or maybe get a mkIII Supra and do a 1JZ swap. If somebody decided to buy my gray Celica, I'd go ahead and sell it to them. But as it stands, I'm swapping the Redtop into my old black Celica, the girlfriend's current Celica, this weekend and the Greytop into my car next Fall. Stay tuned- swapping this weekend.

Nom nom nom nom 1jz nom nom nom...haha I would put the greytop in the grey car and DD it..AND TT the lexus

you need more VQ in this thread.














































just sayn'

redtop in black celica wooooooo!

cya at the meet

so who owns the black celica..

Noob

This post has been edited by SupraKid: Jun 14, 2011 - 2:44 PM

Swapping the Redtop into the gray car would be a moot point right now. The front bearings are screwed, plus I don't have a bracket for the carrier bearing on the passenger axle. I could drop the motor in the car, but I wouldn't be able to drive it anyway so what's the point? We're going to put my good motor in the good car and the lesser motor in the bad car. Once the 5S is out of the black car, I'm pulling the wiring harness off and sending that and my Greytop harness to mr220v to have them spliced together. After that I'd just need to get an intake, carrier bearing bracket, clutch/flywheel, and a few other small things to put the Greytop in my car. However...



That needs to be fixed before I spend another penny on my Celica. And truth be told, I'll probably pay the last little bit I owe on that car off before I touch the Celica again. Then I'm seriously tempted to boost the IS or drop a 1JZ in a mkIII Supra. Andrew, I'd totally buy your white one if it had a Targa top.

Noberto- the black car used to be mine, but the girlfriend bought it from me last year.

Scott- This thread definitely needs less Lexus and more VQ.

Luke- I'm not sure that we'll be able to make it to the meet. I'll talk to Brigette tonight and see if she feels up to going to the meet. I'm sure she will since she just got her front windows tinted and now she's about to get a new motor that much more suits her driving style. I'm sure she'll be wanting to show it off. Are you definitely in for the meet?

The Redtop is going in tomorrow!

How's the swap going?

ill get the pic of the sensor



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Jun 19, 2011 - 11:00 PM

Problems... To be expected with any swap. It's in the car but not started yet. Going back out to work on it. I thought I had the clutch start wire all worked out since my BEAMS came with an auto. Turns out I still have to repin that wire. I still need to do that then hopefully it'll start. Right now, it doesn't do a single thing. After I get it started, I still have to address the issue of why I only have an oil pressure light on my gauge cluster- no check engine light, no battery light, no anything else that normally comes on when you turn the car on without starting the motor.

did you swap your cluster. or is the original. check the fuses, or one of the plugs in the fuse box, you may have forgotten

I had a very similar problem with my Beams swap, and part of the problem was that the big grey plug in the fuse box wasn't plugged in properly. It feels like it plugs in fine, but unless you put the little clips in place it doesn't connect properly. I'd check that first.

Slight update, it's turning over. That was the clutch start wire, just as we thought. I was under the impression that I just had to splice two wires on a plug for the auto tranny and it should start, but it turns out I still have to move the clutch start wire. Anyway, it's turning over now, but not starting. I think it's a fuel issue. When we crank it over, I can't smell any fuel in the exhaust at all. Suggestions are welcome.

Noberto- all the plugs are fine, fuses are fine. I kept the original cluster but I have a Dakota Digital tach adapter to get the signal to work.

S8S8- The EA1 is securely plugged in.

As far as the gauge lights go, stephen_lee says it could either be the b+ on my ECU or that I'm missing some 12v switched wire. For some reason, my battery light works now. Still no check engine light or anything though. I'm less worried about the gauge lights than I am the starting issue. I have three choices with that- one, relay for the fuel pump- Bad splice or something. Two, I don't have the o2 sensor that goes in the b pipe, so if I got the car started, it still wouldn't run right. That sensor could be keeping it from starting at all. Three, I know how sensitive the AFM is, but I'm 99% sure that it's more likely one of the other two causes.

All I have left to do is fill the tranny up with gear oil, wire the tach adapter in, get the exhaust fabbed up, and actually get it started.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 20, 2011 - 6:53 PM

check for codes. check the efi fuse. check for codes.

Here's where I stand. The engine will turn over continuously but will never show the first sign of wanting to catch and start up. After trying for a while, I finally smelled fuel in the exhaust. This could just be from the vacuum in the cylinders sucking fuel in rather than the fuel pump sending fuel. So far as I can tell, the fuel pump isn't working at all. For what it's worth, I've never once heard the fuel pump work in that car. It's a pretty quiet pump. My wiring so far is: EA1, pin 17 to pin 4, and pins 2 and 12 bridged together, and the clutch start wire has been moved. I have NOT wired in the tach adapter yet, although I seriously doubt if that's the cause of my problems. Still no check engine light, which to my knowledge should at least be coming on to show that my ECU is getting power. I don't want to pull the wiring harness apart but I will if I have to. I'm going back out to play with the car and see what I can get done, but I doubt if I'll make any progress. For now, here are a few pictures.

Last picture of the 5S in the car.


Finally, an empty engine bay.


The 5S out of the car and on the ground, where it belongs.


Resurfaced 3S-GTE OEM flywheel, thanks Chris!


The BEAMS getting ready to go in the car.


Typical of any swap, I had to use Gojo as a body wash.


Finally in!

another way to tell if the ecu is getting power is to crank it and see if u have spark. if u have spark the ecu is for SURE getting power. i think on afm motors u can open up the plate and the FP should come on.. but i havent played with many.. on my v6 though if i opened up ALL the way up, it will spary fuel.. even with the engine off & key on.

That guy has some serious ratchet skizziles

Funny you should say that... I hadn't even read this post until just now but one of my friends and I were out with the car earlier when we decided to stop scouring our wiring and wondering what I did wrong and we decided to check the basics. We pulled the plugs, no spark at all. No spark, no fuel. No check engine light. I've noticed the 5S ECU says "5S-FE, M/T." All the pictures of the BEAMS ECU I've seen say "3S-GE, M/T." My ECU, on the other hand... says nothing. Just has a Toyota part number. No spark, no fuel, no CEL... All signs seem to point to a bad ECU.



That man bent my 1/4" S-K ratchet.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jun 21, 2011 - 8:47 PM

if you need help with the intake I'm doing some R & D with air/fuel ratio's and different intake setups. I saw you posted your progress thread on celi tech. Take a look at beams forums. I'm always on their as well. Don't buy a injen Camry intake for $200 its a waste. The best investment would be to make a Custom 70mm intake piping yourself for $250. Good luck finding the stock intake, if you do find it I'll envy you. And if you do buy an oem intake it probably wont run you more than $100 shipped. Not so much that its a rare item but that engine swap places throw them away without knowing the importance of them...