6G Celicas Forums

I guess I'm going with the power FC due to the plug and play and its 1300$ and not 2000$


these are the pistons and rods im getting

775$
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CP-Forged-P...sQ5fAccessories


the seller has 100% positive feedback not a single negative comment...I believe thats as safe as I can get...



Well the build would have been cheap except I have the need to boost to 25 psi lol I get alot of taunts and dares at the eighth mile track that I wont even reach 8.5 seconds also my car has been PRE-RAPED in japan which might account to the piston rings failing...the smoke isnt that heavy so it is just a minor loss... but that minor loss with 23 psi blow by causes massive oil rising and flowing out the PCV and breather pipes also out of the oil dipstick which caught fire on my heat shield...luckily I only got black smoke and not a FIRE FIRE

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 26, 2011 - 9:23 PM

you should never have been running boost like that in the first place with a turbo like that on stock engine and ecu, thats asking for disaster.

I got a peashooter compared to what you got, and by the looks of things, your power starting at 5000 finishing at 7000? ive got more power than that starting from 2200rpm. Not to mention my engine is still healthy and strong.

20+ psi on a turbo like that running correctly it should have been alot faster, check this out for example

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18TpS5fBbRw

one of my all time favourite st205 vids, that car hauls ass!! wastegate sounds awesome, but ofcourse that has to be a well built engine, possibly with a stand alone ecu

You have quick spool, I have power from 4000-End of the world... It just keeps pulling and pulling my wastegate still hasnt been connected to the boost controller its opening up...or else It would spool even faster...

At 4000 I am about 14 psi and it climbs by like 3 psi every half a second maybe?

I am far cry of 553 horsepower at the moment lol that guy has cams aswell

"on Dynorun we reach 553hp@1.9bar. But it was a first Dynorun after building up a new engine even without cams (phase) tuning - "as it is" after engine run-in (about 3000km). I hope to make another dynorun with complete engine setting"




Also my TRD speedo 0-300 makes everything look kinda slow lol




I wasnt at 20 psi before I hit fuel cut way before the 20 psi it shows is the spikes right before fuel cut

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 27, 2011 - 9:52 PM

Ok this is kind of urgent...

I bought a head gasket for the celica but it is a 87mm bore... I cant seem to find any 86mm bore....Am I being stupid? are gaskets supposed to be a bit larger than the bore? or is ebay being a tough nut for me?





EDIT: I Googled...apparently 87mm works with 86 standard bore as its crushed and lives a lil room for piston rings?



Just had the water to air intercooler sandblasted and will be polished by tomorrow

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jun 29, 2011 - 3:28 PM

hey guys I have a problem I bought top feed injectors apparently and I needed side feed, any way around this mistake?

Do i just have to change the fuel rail to top feed? I read that the 5sfe fuel rail will fit? i am lost here...googles not helping

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Jul 18, 2011 - 10:43 AM

I had a fuel rail made and adaptors so that it will all sit in right, got my top end gasket set from england waiting for the rod bearings and that engine is coming together.

Still no luck finding a Power FC but i am hopeful, Im trying to read up as to how the wideband sensor can be hooked up to the ECU and another one go to the gauge I bought.

spent about 180$ on head studs 2 boxes I got sent the wrong studs twice too short and sent in the right bolt with the 2 boxes hopefuly I will get refunded and a box of the right ones shipped back to me, BC racing coilovers still havent shown up at miami. and my cometic head gasket that was 2nd gen was sent back with the correct 3rd gen headgasket (used) so they can send the right one this time, I got one from the england gasket set I believe but I will hold on till I get the cometic HG.

Any suggestions? death wishes etc? im open to all suggestions

engine is being built as we speak ( or i speak to myself) car should be running by next week, ordered 3 gauges with sensors (EGT, Oil Press, Oil Temp) and a triple 60mm gauge thingymabob hopefully it will look well on the dash

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Aug 11, 2011 - 4:41 PM

got a used Power FC kit even with a turbo timer for 450$ in Chile waiting for me should be here in the course of the next 2 weeks, anxious to develop my engine will run 1 bar of boost max, 200 miles and oil change mineral oil only, then another 800 miles and oil change, oil detergent engine cleaner and switch to synthetic 0w-30 or 10w-30 if i cant find the first. Having trouble getting CO2 since the threads doesn't match with the industrial plants feeding plug (lame I know doesn't kill them to be prepared with different sizes for different tanks) I will try at a fire extinguisher company as a friend recommended since he has NOS and CO2 in his cars, also, NOS is 500$ a pop down here...co2 is about 6 dollars a pound. I will see if I order some cheap cam gears and a 264 intake cam, and retard exhaust 6 degrees. I think I might be nearing the end of this "Cheap" build thread. the DNA cam gears are cheap I cant remember where I read you might want to change the bolts for nicer ones...

So Specs might come down to this in the end,

Engine:

Forged 3SGTE
CP Pistons 9.0:1 Compression 86mm bore std
Eagle Rods
ACL Main and Rod bearings

To do:
Cam Gears DNA
Intake 264 BC camshaft
exhaust 264 BC camshaft

Pic shows 2 for 550$ I guess if not it will only be the intake cam


Hopefully new valve springs and 1mm over valves
I want to rev to 8k rpm

Turbo:
Currently the KKR480 I want to see how much juice and reliability I can get out of this thing with the external wastegate maybe planning to run 20-24 psi depending on the AFR values I get.

Fuel System:

I have a walbro 255LPH and will use that with the stock rising rate FPR Should be enough my power goals are under 500 horsepower
750cc top feed injectors on a 8an fuel rail

cooling:

Koyo Rad alluminum

Stock W2A intercooler, run the CO2 cooler ontop of it to cool it for drag runs, will run the purge under the turbo and upwards incase of a fire I will fill the bonnet with CO2 my guess being that if oil catches fire it will be near the hot turbo and if the fuel system catches fire cutting ignition and flooding the bay with co2 will be sufficient.
Had the W2A intercooler polished and sanded again because it does not shine it is a dull color so I had it painted metallic blue (cusco color) and it is beautiful.

Suspension and Brakes:

BC Racing full coilover kit
Stock brakes with new Eagle Pads

Clutch is atm stock pressure plate with a ceramic 6 puck ACT clutch disc launches fine at 5krpm on 225s no skidding and no clutch slippage either.

engine has new seals on all corners.

Any input is appreciated this build has taught me alot of things and I hope this somehow gets stickied for any novice GT4 owners looking for quick power to learn from my mistakes. Just to name a few:

Over boosting with stock pistons and rings on a used engine around 19 psi caused major blow by and permanent smoking raised oil through the dip stick and flooded the factory catch can with oil. almost caught on fire.

No matter how much boost and Water and alky injection you put in the stock ECU pulls timing and that torque pushing you into your seat is no longer present.

Read EBAY items 5 TIMES before buying, and make sure It is for the correct GEN reguarding the head/ head gaskets etc.

When you make your budget, Multiply it times 2 and that will be amount of money you need.

Make your mechanic your best friend, if not, bust his balls until he finishes the build.

recirculating the BOV and venting to atmosphere is a personal choice.

Launch control is fun as hell, loud and I recomend an exhaust cut out (electric if possible) to avoid cops and to not blow the **** out of your muffler.

CHANGE ALLL FILTERS WHEN DOING A BUILD, You do not want any past grime getting into a brand spanking clean new engine.

Just brought the car home, im breaking it in only till 4k rpm max boost its seen is 6 psi and pulls strong and healthy! no smoking at all oil is as clear as water.

Forum Currency! = Pics!!

lookin good afroman!!

http://www.nengun.com/os-giken/racing-clut...in-plate-racing

Get this clutch ! The OS Giken twin-plate clutch is awesome, i ****ing love it on mine!

Hahaha afroman isnt me thats the dude who does all the electric gizmo stuff i took the pics, haha I dont have 2k to drop on a damn clutch no matter how good it is lol...4

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Aug 20, 2011 - 11:48 PM

Ok i have been boosting around 20 psi all day and tonight for some reason I could not go past 10.5 psi!!! when i got home my turbo was RED hot glowing ...I am going to check it out tomorrow morning altho I believe that it will still be hot until tomorrow lol! could the exhaust fins have melted??

I am probably going with a Borg Warner EFR 6758 a ct-26 to T25 adapter and a 3" Stainless Vband 90 degreee with flex that already has 2 o2 bungs...

thats around 1900 $ I am selling my sandrail for 3k so hopefully by this weekend once I have sold it the new parts will come in...


The turbo lag is killing me some POS Toyota Duet actually raced me last night and I was having trouble dissapearing from him...eventually I did at 180km/h for a few mins on the freeway...

Just had to stop by and say those rims are nice man. What brand are they? Also a borg warner turbo?? EFR range right? Thats some serious money but im sure will be worth it in the end....Why that one btw, and also post up them dyno results when you can...we need more 3sgte's with the borg warner turbos lol..

They are Advan replicas! Advan Sugarray is what it says on the wheels 17", Yes Borg Warner EFR 6758.

Its serious money but so is the horsepower range I am looking for and after going thru so much turbo lag I was looking for something that spools quick but gets gt30 power....now between looking at garrets and this and that and reading mr2oc forums I saw a guy who blew his GT3071 and was looking for sub500 hp and quicker spool...I ended up finding this turbo and was quite impressed with it, first time i saw a BOV on the intake shell of the turbo lol...it feeds right back into the mouth of the blades...I figured what the hell...spending 1200$ for a garret and 1600$ for a borg warner theres not much difference but this turbo seems to be built pretty well from what I read on NASIOC they compare this turbo to the garret GTX turbos...



oh and there are no Dyno's in paraguay...



some info on the turbo

* Dual Row Ceramic Ball Bearings - lowest friction and fastest spool/response, most extreme durability, built-in oil control orifice - (aka oil restrictor) **no restrictor can be used with EFR turbos
* Watercooled Center Section - watercooling is recommended, 14mm banjo bolts
* Double seals on both turbine and compressor end for extreme durability and resistance to any oil seepage
* Boost Control Solenoid Valve Integrated to Compressor Housing
* Integrated Speed Sensor mounting provision

EFR 6758 is a versatile turbocharger with very large map width for outstanding power potential even at high boost - and does it in a small package. This is an excellent turbocharger for autocross, rally, drift, road racing and street driven applications. This turbo uses a 67mm OD compressor with a 53.9mm inducer to support a remarkable 49lb/min max flow rate. The low inertia 58mm Gamma-Ti turbine wheel is the optimal match for the FMW compressor wheel. EFR 6758 uses the smallest-sized EFR compressor housing, fitting in the tightest engine bays particularly twin turbo V6 or V8 applications. Ideal for use in single turbo applications for the 300-490hp range, or as twin turbo applications 550-900+hp. Ceramic Ball Bearing only, watercooling recommended.
Compressor Specifications

* Compressor Wheel OD (exducer): 67mm
* Compressor Wheel Inducer: 53.9mm
* Max Flow Rate: 49 lb/min
* Built-in BOV: All EFR compressor housings incorporate an integrated BOV.
* Compressor Housing: 2.5" inlet, 2.0" hose coupler outlet

Turbine Specifications

* Turbine type: Low Inertia Gamma-Ti Turbine Wheel
* Turbine Wheel OD: 58mm
* Stainless Steel Investment cast Housing
* 0.64 A/R T25 undivided (Internal WG)
* Turbine outlet: GT-Vband (aka small 3" vband) ~92mm OD for all EFR turbos

This post has been edited by Neon90424: Aug 25, 2011 - 12:14 PM

For some reason my car was without a drop of water! the temp gauge didnt go into the red though but I am seriously bummed about this new problem