6G Celicas Forums

the s54 he is running a stock s54 ring and pinion. All that was changed out was the dif. I know this because he bought my transmission.

im the guy who did the write up on the mrS lsd diff in an s54 and here is the thread on it. Along with links where i got all my info from

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...&hl=s54+lsd

This post has been edited by urbandork: Jun 11, 2011 - 12:33 AM

Im Afraid you may be right Rusty, here is some video footage! I think I do have a 4.529 final drive gear ratio.

God that thing sounds beautiful, regardless of what ratio you have.

hmm not sure what could be your issue, the fuel is an obvious one, as would be a longer final drive, but not a lot you can do about that, the intake is another, without your stock airbox not much you can do about that either lol. I know you and your freinds car feel different have you compared( not raced) them to see if there is a difference? remember what you feel is the change in torque rather than constant torque and the beams has a more even and flatter torque curve so you could feel less despite it being faster. The mr2 beams airbox had a revision the celica never did to my knowlodge to help with the maf, so even on the stock box there can still be issues, good old maf, achilles heal of the beams.

are you getting a nice surge around 4000rpm? or is the midrange quite flat and constant. really the only thing you can do is get it on a dyno and see what your a/f is anything up till then is clutching at straws.


oh and agreed that is a fine sounding car, would sound termandous revving out to just over 8000rpm bit like its eating the road.

This post has been edited by Edophus: Jun 18, 2011 - 6:16 PM

ahh yea crummy 95 octane. Well with a 4.529 final drive, I will gain more torque right??? Another thing I'm a bit dissatisfied is with my current gearing. only 85 vs 91 mph in 3rd gear. My 4th gear does top out at 107mph in 4th gear, weak!! My top speed has been knocked down a whole 12 mph. I read something on beams forums that the Redtop motor will still produce peak power until 8,000 rpm. The member Protok has a video floating somewhere on youtube of him taking his ST202 to 8 grand. So does this mean you can do it on a stock ecu or does it have to be standalone?? what do you know about 8k on Redtop Motor?? So here's my way of fixing that in the future sometime:



My MAF has a few tricks up my sleeve. Hopefully that will all get sorted out by Thursday or even by Wednesday. Torque actually seems pretty good I think, but ya Dyno Test for sure.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: May 6, 2012 - 4:29 PM

I'm trying to sort out my Air/Fuel Ratio's at the moment with Derrick's AEM Wideband sensor and Honeycomb Airflow Straighteners. Hopefully I can get my hands on an oem Intake box within the next week. Once I get a sensible Air/Fuel Ratio readings, I'll fill up the car with racing fuel and make some video's!! jobless atm

I haven't kept up on this thread, what kind of A/F problems have you been having ?

wide open throttle at 7,000 rpm is at 11.4 Ratio.... Wideband sensor is installed behind steering rack/subframe. I know its a bit away down the system, but it was the best place I could put it at. My whole exhaust is one piece from the downpipe back. At cruising speed it fluctuates from 14.1 to 15.2 ratio.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 26, 2011 - 10:11 PM

sounds normal.
I had a wideband on my 5s and that's totally normal with that motor.
If you think you're too rich, put the OEM fuel pump back in, the walbro pushes way too much.
I had put one in my 5s when I was going to turbo (instead went 3s) and it was super rich.

time 4 turbo beams with aftermarket ecu?

hmm you mean sounds normal with my walbro fuel pump or sounds normal for the beams engine?? I was going to originally buy an oem fuel pump, but I thought the beams and 5s were different. I was going to go with the walbro 190lph When I bought the walbro, I bought it because I thought the more the better. I never had in mind to turbo the beams motor at all. I love the sound on the N/A and quick response.

I would indeed love to turbo my motor but with stock internals. I know I would have to run boost at 6-7psi max and then it would only be a matter of time before I would blow my seals on the pistons right??? Not to turbo savvy. If I were to turbo the beams motor I wouldn't want more than 40 hp and 40 pounds of torque at the crank. Preferably about 30 hp and 30 ft lbs torque would be better. Any more than than and I would just be waiting it spinning my tires.

I'm running on 95ron = 91 octane and I know for a fact that my engine is retarding timing. Is this another cause of my rich air/fuel ratio's???

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jun 27, 2011 - 12:57 AM

If you wanted turbo you shouldn't have gotten a BEAMS.

You just have some bugs to work out to get it running right.
You should probably get it on a dyno to see where you are standing.
Malfunctioning sensors are a nightmare, hopefully it's something simply like your SRI creating turbulent air.

Best of luck.

Lol, Screw the bugs, spending time and money just to get stock worrking correctly, may aswell go straight for the best possible setup, make it a project car rather than putting it on just DD duties. Beams engine with small turbo, map sensor conversion & ecu. Keep your VVT-i and run 10 pounds on a peashooter like a T28.

ya I want to fix my current problem right now. And then get it on a dyno. My plans was never to have turbo celica. I love the N/A sound! Its my only car that I have, my other daily driver could possibly be a honda 80cc scooter. I wouldn't want my celica to only be a project car. I would love to switch it to map right about now!! Oh well all in good time, just have to be patient.

I would like the specs to be of a beams blacktop with a standalone ecu. So basically I would love an additional 20 hp in N/A form.

Lol your beams sounds similar to my Si....

I'd love to know how you smogged your celica with the current setup. Must have a good friend.

fyi, my beams was coughing and loosing power, slapped a new afm and now is all good, im using 93 octane here, and with the oem pump.... you are too rich.

disappointment discovery over the past couple of days. I went to 76 gas station for A. You can get free gas for life if you fill up with 10 gal or more and use a scratcher to see if you won any prizes. B. Mix 100 octane racing Fuel with 91 octane and I've achieved a very solid 93 octane mixture.

Turns out I'm still running rich!! Basically the same readings as when I was using 91 octane. So I'm getting two sides to the story. Batman says I'm fine and you say Im rich??? I thought, that with the 91 octane I was running rich because ecu was retarding timing and sending more fuel into my pistons. uggh what a drag. My next step is to buy the two 1 inch honeycomb filter, taping them together and installing them in front of the MAF Sensor. I'm also going to check pressure at the fuel rail....

Oh Norberto, so you bought a brand new MAF Sensor??

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jul 12, 2011 - 1:40 PM

you are running a little rich.

Few solutions:
Put the OEM fp back in
Use a stock airbox.

what do you think the A/F should be ?

i had an extra afm at home. Then i cleaned the old one with carburetor cleaner...

put the oem pump back.... listen to the caped guy!!!

seriously the beams runs well on the oem pump. Ill take a video of mine tomorrow...

Stop measuring the A/F ratio for now.. and start with the pump...

I love driving my BEAMs you should too. Start with the simple things....

I got this from an actual tuner place that posts on honda tech:

Back to the original question of what a/f is good for n/a tuning, i have found anywhere in the range of 12.8~14:1 to be sufficient. What i typically do with n/a cars is run them at various target a/f's under wot on the dyno. So from 12:5:1, 13:1, 13.5:1 and 14:1. I measure the torque production from each a/f. I compare each torque curve at the various a/f levels, and see where the engine likes to make peak torque. At resonance points, and different areas in the rpm band the engine typically likes different a/f values. I have been able to pick up 3-5 ft-lbs of torque in various parts of the rpm band by doing this.

This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jul 12, 2011 - 7:09 PM