6G Celicas Forums

Also wouldn't me doing a boost leak test and putting 15 or 16lbs through the piping make the bov leak if it was that? Because when we hooked that up. the bov didn't open or leak any air?

Well what it is.. is that that the bov spring is either to weak or to strong making it open to early or to late when u shift. That's why the tial type bov is better so a boost test really won't help u there. Because its different when u are driving

Well man. I'm really hoping that you are right.. That would totally make my day so much better.. A buddy of mine has a tial sitting in his room. I may have to borrow it and see if that fixes the problem.. Cause i've been going crazy trying and trying to figure it out. This engine is amazing. And love the feeling of it. But i just wish that i could have full boost and no hesitations.. Cause thats exactly what happens in every gear when its past 9lbs.

Yeah try that and run stock boost first. Set up the stock way. And see if it runs fine after that if so u fixed your problem and you were turning your boost up to high. Take note to u may have a bad boost controller. That's why I said set it up the stock way first with that tial bov.and let me know how it turns out

blitz bov is a good bov aslong as u adjust it right???

im more a fan of the hks ssqv type though, theres no adjustment it just works on vacuum, ...

Yeah pole type bov's are good bov's.they cost a lot of money but to me worth it.I'm not a big fan of hks I don't like the way they sound and the fact u can't adjust them but that's just me. I feel those are made for cars that boost high psi boost levels but again that's just me and what I think

well bad news guys. changed bov with my buddy.s hks that pushes 2o easy. and nothing changed with it on my car. still does it.. so don't know what the deal is. only other thing could it be anything with the waist gate and the berk tech down pipe? and gotta still get exhaust done. but figured i.d wait till i get this figured out before i go to get that done.. but any more ideas? lol. thanks for your help for sure. i'm willing to try anything lol.

oh and brenton. i don't have a boost controller.. lol.

Run a pole type bov not hks..... and I think that ct26 turbo on the gen3 with that berk down will have to be fixed so that waste gate can open all the way.and if your exhaust isn't. Done u might not be getting enough back pressure which is making u lag also did u check your boost controller and make sure everything is good there. That's pretty much everything u can check outside. make sure u don't have intake leak if u have a fmic set make sure your intercooler doesn't have a hole in it. And check your pipe. If your running water to air make sure your pump is working right. And make sure u have a good hard vac going to your bov. If u are running a boost controller manny make sure its hooked up right.and your waste gate is plugged up right. U should only be using one line off the waste gate the other one should be plugged. And the big thing is make sure your vac lines are hooked up right


I don't know about the ct26 turbo but my ct20b only boost 9 stock. If your boosting 15 stock without a boost controller something is wrong

This post has been edited by brenton1919: Aug 4, 2011 - 11:17 PM

there is your problem, you always hold some detail so people can't help you efficiently. if you are pushing 15 psi with no boost controller. then you have
1- a leak on your hoses to the actuator
2- missing a hose completely
3- a hose crimped / twisted with restricted flow.

inspect your hoses going to / coming from the actuator. look for diagrams on how they should be set up and compare to yours and see where the problem is. at best on a stock setup you'll be pushing around 13 PSI not 15-16

already checked all lines.. jim told me with front mount and full exhaust i.d be pushing fifteen or so pounds with stock set up. and no boost controller.. we've pressure checked all lines.. but i guess i'll maybe get a controller and try to turn it down. and prob take my down pipe off and check if waist gate is opening correctly.

My guess is a leak in your lines somewhere. Otherwise, like Culpable04 said, you should be at 13psi MAX. Also, you should check & make sure all your ignition components are good (Spark plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, distributor). My 3s was feeling REALLY sluggish whenever my boost hit 1 bar & I changed out everything except the distributor & had a much better response. If you're planning on running your engine hard, I'd suggest MSD 8.5mm wires & for plugs, NGK BKR7Eix's & make sure the plugs are the iridium ones. It's best to go with original factory Toyota parts for cap & rotor in my opinion. That's only if you think your ignition components are bad, or just not keeping up with your setup.


-Ryan

ya i'm gonna keep checking things out. the plugs only have couple hundred miles on them. and cap rotor and plug wire.s were all brand new from toyota. so i'll have to do some more checking on waist gate and the actuater. we'll figure it out hopefully lol. and i'm running same plugs you suggested lol.

Also another quick question.. Now i've been doing some thinking. and as i'm running front mount air-to-air instead of the factory top mount water-to-air. I have the diagnosis thing jumped so i don't throw a code. But the question i'm asking is. Am i supposed to get rid of the water lines that run to the turbo? or just leave them hooked up? Hoping to get to work on it this week sometime.. Been pretty busy lately lol.

Alright guys well havn't had time to upload any pics of dropping engine in and everything.. So here ya go..


After getting ACT 6 puck clutch installed


After i got the transmission lined back up and bolted to block.


Slowly starting to drop engine into the car


After we got her in the car. Getting ready to tow her back to my house to install everything else.


After installing my intercooler piping (testing)


Testing the front mount placement


After getting it running and we put bumper back on (love the front mount)


A random shot i took yesterday..

Well hope ya guys enjoy.. I almost have 3k miles on it since i got her running.. I'm still having that problem. But hopefully get her fixed.. Jim told me a boost controller would fix my problems.. Hopefully he's right lol.. thanks everyone for your help

nerver get rid of the water lines that go to the turbo !

ya never did. just asked.. but car runs pretty good. it's fun

OUTSTANDING BRO!!! youre gonna LOOVE THIS!

on a side note... im REALLY against you taking out your crash bar for your intercooler... not worth the risk. be safe man!

Thanks man. And ya i know i had a custom crash bar made when body kit got installed it was a steel bar.. But problem was we couldn't fit it in there with the intercooler. So we left it out.. I know its not safe. But i know a lot of people take it out just to get body kit to fit.. But i'll be fine.. (hopefully) lol.. Just hoping when i get exhaust and a boost controller.. I can fix my flutter problem when i'm WOT and hitting thirteen to fifteen lbs. lol.

I don't think the few layers of aluminum that are our crash bar, serve much purpose.