6G Celicas Forums

I running into an issue where my passenger rear window would have issues going back up after going down. At first I thought it was my button but after getting another one installed I still get the same issue. I spoke to a local junk yard employee who said it's something to do with the motor. I find it odd because when I press up I don't hear the motor click or anything that will signal a power going to the motor. When I press down I hear it click. Anyone has any idea what this might be? If it is the motor where would I get a new one? Does toyota still sell it? Also anyone know where I can get a diagram of the vert rear windows?

Funny how I had the same problem a long time ago, it wouldn't go up, then the "mechanic" did something with the switch and re routed another switch back there.

But now mine won't go down.
I'm guessing it's something do with the switch?
Check those with a voltmeter and see of currents flowing when u press up/down viseversa.

It can't hurt
Hope this helps.

I tested the switch last night and it's working just fine. I did some search on the web and came across a few saying that it was the regulator. I'm planning on going to the junk yard again today as there currently is one 97 vert there. Problem is that this yard I go too isn't cheap but its the only with a vert at the moment.

It seems hard to test that switch because the switch is dependent on the door switches and the right quarter window switch. If you try a new switch I can understand but a used one could have the same problem. I pulled my hair getting my window to go up and down without stopping but with the switch cleaning thread I have cleaned mine two times now and my window is working great after 2 years now. Definatly take it apart and look for the black gook(varnish) some sandpaper and or a nail file will get it like new. Would you mind letting me know if the vert in junkyard has a perfect drivers side fender?

Testing the switch is very easy. When you have it out, examine the contacts and from there you add power and a multi meter. Power can come from a simple battery, and all you have to do is make sure the switch sends power when pressing it in both open and close. The multi meter aka volt meter will let you know if it works or not.

I went to the local junk yard and got the motor and regulator for $75. I believe the side fender is great shape.

While installing the new used motor and regulator from the junk yard, I found that the old one work just fine by using a battery and connecting it directly to the regulator. I used the same method of testing the switch but this time I check the voltage at the connector from the regulator. I found that when hitting down I would get a good 12v but the up will hit only about 9-10v. I'm Guessing it's something to do with the wiring at this point. Maybe the switch is bad too, but I'm not sure at this point. I just wiggle the wires and at some point it started hitting 12v again. It's working again now so i guess I just reused the orginal motor as do further testing. It sucks that I took everything apart even the motor and regulator just to put it back in, live and learn I guess.

Hmm, let me know how that turn out. And if ur planning to sell your extra motor/regulator PM me, I might need one too.