Steering wheel swap guide, this is not common "how-to" but just small guide... |
Steering wheel swap guide, this is not common "how-to" but just small guide... |
Jan 29, 2010 - 5:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 27, '05 From Vienna, Austria Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I removed mine about a year ago without a puller but it took about 10-15 minutes.
-------------------- cya, abraxxa
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Jan 30, 2010 - 1:21 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I needed a puller to remove my 4 spoke wheel, definitely NO way I would've gotten it w/out a puller, but to remove the 3 spoke wheel I don't expect I'd need a puller whatsoever. My guess, Yarik, since yours has been removed once already, is that you may not need one.
If you do need one, you can get it from Autozone; they "rent" them - you buy it for $20, use it, and return it for a refund (their policy!) -------------------- |
Jan 30, 2010 - 1:56 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 3, '06 From Czech Republic (Europe) Currently Offline Reputation: 56 (100%) |
I removed mine about a year ago without a puller but it took about 10-15 minutes. exactly. depends on wheel... old ST st.wheel was impossible to remove w/o puller but at GT-four it was easy. So unless you give a try you never know -------------------- No more replicas... This is evolution... This is SS-four :)
________[Featured Celica of 6gc.net @ 2010]_________ |
Feb 16, 2010 - 3:50 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
no more fuss.. the missing link ladies n gentlemen.. you don't need to splice any wires just buy this adapter have to order from here not your dealer .. http://toyota.spx.com/detail.aspx?id=407&p=173&g=21 Just thought I'd update this with my own findings, I was able to order this part off of http://www.handsontools.com/; prior to ordering I emailed to confirm part is in stock - part is in stock and will ship within 48 hrs. Part costs $16 on this site, but shipping is a bit high at $10 for UPS ground. Edit: sub-"herness"? lol This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 16, 2010 - 4:02 PM -------------------- |
Feb 16, 2010 - 4:01 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I just looked over my notes, it's not super clear. From the 6gen connector from the clockspring there's 3 wires red white white w/black stripe right ? (and the black horn) 7 gen to 6 gen red to red black (cut) to white white to white w/black that all I got, I took them both apart and saw the diff, check itr out good luck Can anyone confirm this? I spliced in my 7th gen cruise stalk this weekend but it's not working. On the 7th gen stalk, the black is crimped in with the white w/black wire, so I basically did the same with the clockspring side of the harness, cut in the W and W/B to the same on the stalk. I'm thinking this is where I went wrong - do I need to separate the B and the W/B on the stalk and splice them in separately to the clockspring side? Also, would this possibly cause an airbag ecu code? I spliced in my airbag again, blue to black, yellow to red, reset the airbag ecu but the light is still on. I ran diagnostics on it, it's Code 12. Anyone else get this problem? I have to run through DEQ in a month, and am pretty sure I won't pass if my SRS Warning light is on. Help! -------------------- |
Feb 16, 2010 - 4:15 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '08 From Orlando, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
I just looked over my notes, it's not super clear. From the 6gen connector from the clockspring there's 3 wires red white white w/black stripe right ? (and the black horn) 7 gen to 6 gen red to red black (cut) to white white to white w/black that all I got, I took them both apart and saw the diff, check itr out good luck Can anyone confirm this? I spliced in my 7th gen cruise stalk this weekend but it's not working. On the 7th gen stalk, the black is crimped in with the white w/black wire, so I basically did the same with the clockspring side of the harness, cut in the W and W/B to the same on the stalk. I'm thinking this is where I went wrong - do I need to separate the B and the W/B on the stalk and splice them in separately to the clockspring side? Also, would this possibly cause an airbag ecu code? I spliced in my airbag again, blue to black, yellow to red, reset the airbag ecu but the light is still on. I ran diagnostics on it, it's Code 12. Anyone else get this problem? I have to run through DEQ in a month, and am pretty sure I won't pass if my SRS Warning light is on. Help! how did you clear the airbag code? At the DLC? -------------------- ◊◊◊ My F/S Thread! ◊◊◊
QUOTE (14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out. QUOTE Ferdi says (11:29) No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings. |
Feb 16, 2010 - 4:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
Since this thread is pretty much the most thorough how-to-swap-your-steering wheel, I'd love to see it completed with information on how to splice in the 7th gen cruise stalk for those of us not lucky enough to get a 98-99 or whatever it was that's plug-n-play. As a side note, in the interest of consolidating info, here is how to clear the airbag code, as per the BGB for a '95 USDM Celica QUOTE CLEARING CODES 1) At DLC, connect a jumper wire to terminal Tc. See Figs. 11 and 12. Connect another jumper wire to terminal AB. Turn ignition switch to ACC or ON position. Wait about 6 seconds. 2) Starting with terminal Tc, apply body ground alternately to terminal Tc and terminal AB twice each, in cycles of 1/2 to 1 1/2 seconds (sequence is: Tc, AB, Tc, AB). Finally, keep applying body ground to terminal Tc until air bag warning light flashes quickly, indicating codes are cleared. NOTE: When alternately connecting jumper probes to terminals, simultaneously release one probe from one terminal while connecting other probe to other terminal. If time interval between probings exceeds 0.2 second, codes will not clear. Edit: Samir, I'll email you the PDF out of the BGB - it's got diagrams and PICTURES! lol Edit again: Here's the PDFs for anyone else who wants them. "srs.pdf" has the wiring diagram, "airbag restraint system.pdf" contains trouble shooting, reset info and codes interpretation This post has been edited by GriffGirl: Feb 16, 2010 - 5:06 PM -------------------- |
Feb 16, 2010 - 4:55 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '08 From Orlando, Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
ive got the BGB, thats why i was asking if thats how you cleared it. In that case, im gonna guess something bigger is wrong, incorrect wiring or something? code 12 is not very specific....
-------------------- ◊◊◊ My F/S Thread! ◊◊◊
QUOTE (14:19:21) Daniel: That was a JDM hole in the side of the box too. There was so much JDM trapped inside that box that they couldn't contain it, so they had to put a JDM hole in the box to let the JDM out. QUOTE Ferdi says (11:29) No, it looks like a hooker put her acid vag on your hood. Acid vag = bigger problem than a few dings. |
Feb 16, 2010 - 5:09 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 7, '07 From Portland, Oregon Currently Offline Reputation: 67 (96%) |
I think you're right, I think it's something with my connections actually.
Today I ordered the adapter harness - a bit too little, too late perhaps, I don't know. I depinned the clock-spring side of the connector, but didn't actually CUT anything off, so it's possible I could re-pin the connector, use the adapter, and be good to go! -------------------- |
Sep 15, 2011 - 10:02 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
Hey guys,
I am thinking hard about doing this swap, but I see a lot of people who are having trouble with it and I need to drive this car daily. I have a few questions, and I know some of them have been answered, but I want to be 100% confident and clear before a buy the parts to start the swap. My car is a 95 USDM by the way. First off, if I am lucky and able to find a 98-99 wheel do I still need to do splicing and modding to get the airbag to connect? What about the Rav4 wheel (looks pretty much the same imo)? Regarding cruise control, will I not be able to use my existing 6g cruise control stalk? Shopping list: 7th gen Wheel or Rav4 wheel or 98-99 6gen wheel 7th gen airbag Airbag connector adapter ??? |
Sep 15, 2011 - 11:22 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Nov 27, '05 From Vienna, Austria Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Just buy the adapter posted above.
-------------------- cya, abraxxa
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:39 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:46 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '09 From yonkers, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
buy the adapter and just leave the cruise control it had thats what i did (with a 7th gen wheel)
-------------------- *Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job) WTB Reasonably priced Projectors just Lows |
Sep 15, 2011 - 12:51 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
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Sep 22, 2011 - 10:05 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 2, '05 From Guam Currently Offline Reputation: 15 (100%) |
i disabled my cruise control, the red stitch steering wheel didn't have the extra cruise control lever, but I've never used it anyway.
-------------------- 94 Celica GT
|Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tom's|Competition Clutch|5Zigen|Apexi| |Laille/Beatrush|Magnecor|Denso|Royal Purple|Optima|PIAA|PW JDM|Megan Racing|Nitto| |Work|Greddy|Samco|Project Mu|H&R|Gates|Moog|Rota|Yokohama|Epman|1320|Upgr8 04 Celica GT |Toyota OEM Japan|Toyota Racing Development|Tein|BC Racing|Greddy| |
Sep 23, 2011 - 8:30 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
Hey guys, got my steering wheel on, I would like to wire up my CC lever. Does anyone still have the splicing information, or can anyone confirm that the connections batman posted are correct? One of the CC levers I have has 3 wires coming off of it, and the other has 2.
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Sep 23, 2011 - 8:51 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '09 From yonkers, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
i used the old cc in my old steering wheel had but don't know about using the splicing.
-------------------- *Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job) WTB Reasonably priced Projectors just Lows |
Sep 23, 2011 - 9:41 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
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Sep 24, 2011 - 12:58 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 15, '09 From yonkers, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
which steering wheel are you using because the old cc should fit just not going to be straight out would be angled down something like this \ mine defenatly fit but like i said im using the 7th gen leather wheel have no idea about the other ones ill see if i can take a pic tomorrow.
-------------------- *Thing i want for my car(i wish i had money)*
-light blue tint (next step will do this right after i get my paint job) WTB Reasonably priced Projectors just Lows |
Sep 24, 2011 - 4:06 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
which steering wheel are you using because the old cc should fit just not going to be straight out would be angled down something like this \ mine defenatly fit but like i said im using the 7th gen leather wheel have no idea about the other ones ill see if i can take a pic tomorrow. The ebay listing says that it is off of an 03 celica, but it looks more like a rav4 wheel to me, no leather wrapping, just the same material as our e-brake. The CC off of my car has 3 mounting screws, but the new wheel only has 2 mounting holes, and the mounting area is much smaller making it so that the old one will not fit. |
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