6G Celicas Forums

From the thread....

I don't know if that applies to you.

Grab a DVOM and check the sweep of the TPS, though typically they won't drop in/out, they'll fall out of range at the same position when they have a bad spot...however I have seen them fail intermittently though just once and on an older GM. It would go from correct to closed throttle/full throttle at random when the motor/wire harness moved around. harness was solid, inside the TPS it was broken/flaky contact between the terminal pins and the sensor itself.

Do a 'wiggle test' on all the connectors and the splices in the engine harness and at the ECM to check for drop outs. It would help to have a scanner with good fast data for this, but something that drops out like that you should be able to hear in how it runs, even at idle.

Getting a sub harness made up to piggyback off of the cam position sensor. The idea is that the pulse signal from the cam position sensor should satisfy the A/T code.


I think I posted this in the non-6gc thread, but to keep things in order - this is from the NOS Forum Fest that happened last Saturday.


I got talking with one guy for an hour or so about the swap... only to find that I was speaking with Kris from KO Racing. He offered me a killer deal on a Hydra Nemesis EMS that I probably can't refuse. I'll probably be taking him up on that in a couple months - because I went and picked up these tonight:


Sparco Roadsters. Brand new. Before heading out to get these I called Wedge Engineering and placed an order for brackets, Sparco sliders, and side mounts.... Too much money spent in one day... These seats are stupid comfortable. I've been sitting in one for a while now and I can't believe how good they feel. WAY better quality than the Corbeau TRS seats I had for a breif period of time in the yelli celi.

Your winning it mate!

Haven't updated this thread for a while...

Got my Sparcos installed.

They sat about an inch too tall for me with the Sparco sliders, so I modified the brackets and bolted them straight to the car. Now they sit perfect!


Yesterday I went to a car audio/video store because they were having a tent sale... and I picked up this beauty:


A Pioneer AVIC X920BT. It's last year's model, but it goes for $700+ normally, and I got it for $299! Woo! Got it all installed and all of the functionality set up. Just in time for the Puget Sound Toyota Owners Fest.

I was thinking of picking one of those units up, what do you think of it?

It's pretty nice. I haven't had a lot of time to play with it, but from what I have seen, the GPS and hands free calling work well - and it streams Pandora from my iPhone which is fun. TONS of included features and lots of customization. I'm going to upload a new splash screen for boot up tomorrow when I'm at work because I need to do it from MicroSD and I don't have any of those laying around.

I do like how it handles iPod integration. It is a lot easier to control than I thought it would be. It was definitely a no-brainer at the price I got it for.

Nice thread, good work.

I'm jealous of the deal you got on that headunit.

Is this your daily?

Daily driver, yes sir.

I love this build thread. It's been a great source of info for me as I begin my own 1MZ swap.

I haven't seen anything about using the fuel return lines. Are you not using a fuel return? Also are you still using the N/A fuel pump?

Appreciate all the effort you've gone to to document this, great photos.

your engine in stock form produces 210 hp right?? Doesn't it use a MAF Sensor on the Intake piping??? as the same one used on the 3sge beams redtop!!

I used the early 1MZ, which uses the same return system as my MR2, so the entire fuel system was plug and play. I am still using the N/A pump. I thought of replacing it, but from the research I did on MR2OC everyone said the N/A pump would work fine if you aren't building for a ton of power.




Stock form is ~200 at the crank. I found that my power is low because when on WOT it pulls timing. I'm working on the fix now.

isnt it 190 in non VVT?

Wiki:



This post has been edited by stephen_lee: Oct 11, 2011 - 2:22 PM

Ah, yes. I snagged it from the wrong spot in the wiki.

i wonder where the 168 figure came from?

Probably from another vehicle, for which the engine was detuned.

IDK. That 168 is right around where stock WHP would be. 190 at the crank... Mine would be somewhere around 190whp with the mods if it wasn't retarding timing.


Got some insight as to what might be causing that issue, though. The EGR system sits on the intake manifold, a pipe runs down to a cooling plate on the backside of the block, and then another pipe from the cooling plate to the exhaust manifold. I couldn't hook up the exhaust portion of it because of my custom headers, so the cooling plate to exhaust part is missing. This is allowing unmetered air into the intake instead of inert gas, which *might* be the cause for running lean under heavy loads and ultimately pulling timing. I'm going to look into deleting the EGR entirely this weekend, or at least blocking off the EGR to the intake.

if that hole is before the egr valve, it wouldnt matter. the egr system SHOULD be closed under all conditions except cruise

I had a photoshoot for a feature on a PNW-based automotive lifestyle blog this last weekend. Only three photos have been processed so far. Here is a quick teaser: