6G Celicas Forums

Hello, I've recently bought a 1994 Celica ST, The car sometimes shuts down when i come to a complete stop, the rpm would fluctuate between 800-500 shake and studder then shuts off, mostly at red lights and when the car is on drive. However, if i leave it on neutral at red lights it doesn't shut off. I've went to 2 mechanics and they fixed the tps sensor which help for a few days, but then the problem occurs again. I've went to a 3rd mechanic recently and now he's saying it's the transmission and he needs to take it out to figure out the problem charging me 695.00, which i think might be b.s. so i didn't go through with it. Spark plugs & wires are already replaced with NGK, transmission fluid was replaced with toyota transmission fluid, oil change/oil filter replaced as well, ANY HELP OR SUGGESSTIONS please thank you.

This post has been edited by themanjsq: Nov 1, 2011 - 5:16 PM

could be dirty injectors, weak fuel pump, its not transmission related. the reason it stalls in drive is because there is more of a load on the engine.

I was having idle problems. Fluctuating between 950 up to almost 2500 RPM.
I was told check all vacuum lines.
I found the PCV valve was busted off. Replaced it along with all but 2 vacuum lines.
Then I had a steady high idle. I just now found a problem with the A/C high idle valve.
Since my A/C is not hooked up, I capped off the places the hoses were connected.
Now it's a much better 1000 RPM idle.

In short, check all vacuum lines & idle components.
I'm learning alot from this site! Great group of people who have become family!!!

What transmission--
Auto or 5 speed?
Do you know what the motor is?

how is your gas mileage? does it stutter or seem to stall in high rpm/high load (flooring it)

IAC
Vac leak
TPS
Idle Up Valve (when applicable)
Timing
Ignition Coil

any codes??

On a MAP metered car, the vac leaks wont cause low idle/stalling. just high idle

IAC is a good place to start.

Hello, thank you everyone for your help/responses, my car is an automatic 1.8, i have floored it when entering the highway, the car doesn't studder at high rpm nor stall, the car drives fine and smooth just the stalling problem. I'm going to take it to another mechanic today, i'll post update on what he says. again thanks for your help, this site is awesome!

i'm betting all you need to do is clean the throttle body/idle air control valve.

How much does it cost to get the iac cleaned? or how much is the part plus installation?

no idea as i do it all myself, whatever an hours worth of labor is.

the part is $$$ and hardly ever actually fails, just needs cleaned

I've been quoted between $65 and $80 dollars to have the IAC/Throttle Body cleaned at several local Toyota dealerships. Check local dealer websites for service coupons if you don't really want to do the work yourself.

Also, if you happen to know, when was the last time the O2 sensors were changed? I had a '97 Pontiac Grand Am that did almost the exact same thing your Celica is doing and it turned out to be it needed sensors replaced. Just a thought but definitely clean the TB and IAC before going for sensors.

Does it only happen when the car is hot? In my car 2 of the rod bearings spun. When they would heat up there was so much resistance on the rods from expansion it would literally shut the car off.

Also once it shuts off does it turnover immediately when you go to start it again? I went through the same crap trying to diagnose it, didnt actually figure it out until i got rod knock.

This post has been edited by czwalga: Nov 2, 2011 - 12:07 PM

Idle air control valve. Guaranteed. I drove a maxims that would not run atall unless my foot was in the gas. Clutch in, stall, not moving stall, foot to the floor it ram like our always should. Iac should be.around 100. Just look it up at on auto zone . Com and get an aftermarket one or try to clean and refurbish yours

Anyone replace the gaskets involved when removing/replacing the IACV for cleaning?

new part should have come with one.... if not, small bit of gasket maker, or coating of grease.... and i mean small; def can't hurt..

actually, i have to drive it for a bit to warm up, but once its been driven for a bit, then the shutting down on idle occurs, it actually happens when im on reverse too when trying to parallel park lol. i've taken it to the mechanic today i told him what i thought it could be (idle air control valve needs cleaning) but when i got back to him, he said he fixed it, he said adjusted the timing belt and a wire that was bad which wasnt giving enough power (idk), but when i got home after driving for a bit, i sat there with my foot on the brake and the car on drive, and eventually the problem occurred again =(. I contacted the mechanic and he said he'll check it again, maybe he'll listen to me this time and clean it. UGH! thanks again for everyones help i really appreciate it!

the idle air control valve at autozone is pretty cheap compared to others, duralast for $124.99 or should i get STANDARD for which ranges from $200-300. do you get what you paid for? or it doesn't matter the brand?

its a used car. 5s or 7a I'm assuming. If it can't be cleaned to where it operates reliably then get a new one. As to which one, I would ABSOLUTELY not get the "standard" one. It's an iac. At that price you could buy two before you made the cost of the other one. i've never had a problem with autozone/napa/advanced auto parts on my DD. If you raced this thing it would be one thing. Easy life of DD, get the cheaper one. It'll work fine.... but that's just my .02

Let it heat up, then drive it hard for like 5 minutes, (high RPM). Get back in your driveway, shut the car off and in 30 seconds try to restart it. Does it start, or just keep trying to start.

I know I killed a battery because i was on the starter so long trying to get it start after I drove it hard for a little.