6G Celicas Forums

Well I've been using Valvoline 10W-30 Full synthetic and Mobil1 oil filter for about 2 changes now and I've noticed much better filtration from the filter but I'm not convinced that the oil is doing its job.

While getting oil for a change I decided to go with Mobil1 oil and filter, I'm hoping things run smoother and my oil doesn't burn as quickly (mind you it's been very very hot here the past few weeks).

Is anyone else using both Mobil1 filter and oil? how has it been working out for you?

the 7afe is known to burn oil from both rings and the valve seals. so thats probably where yu're losing it.

i dont trust any filter other than toyota.. plus theyre about 6$ anyways..

I use mobil1 10w30 high mileage or 15w40 diesel both full synthetic.

So it's normal to lose oil lol

how much are you losing?

lets just say If I were to not add oil for about 1800 miles it would be on low.

This post has been edited by NYp8tBaller07: Jul 21, 2011 - 4:08 PM

The 7afe is indeed known to burn oil
Mine used around 1L of 15w-40 castrol every 250 miles @130.000miles.
I've even heard people saying their 7afe was using 1L every 600 miles after having put only 80.000miles on the engine.
My engine is currently being refurbished including oversized pistons since the cylinder walls were damaged.

I've spent quite some money on oil and probable fixes, so my advice would be to either sell, rebuild or swap.

i add about a qrt every 150/200 miles, i would fix it but im gonna be pulling the 3s from my mr2 soon and rebuilding it

Mobil 1 is damn good oil man. I have several buds who use it on their autocross cars and they love it. One of my buds has a thoroughly built honda crx turbo-ed and built inside and out and runs it on mobil 1 and has been for years.

Try 1 can of cd2 on your next oil change.

my 7afe has 105k mile at the moment. and it does not burn oil. I change my oil every 5k miles and i have never needed to add oil between oil changes.

My current 7a @ 225k doesnt burn oil either..

But I had one at 180k that did, and another at 127k that did as well.

yea my 7afe burned oil at 100k :facepalm:

my corolla eats as much oil as it does gas...stupid 5 qts every ~1.5 weeks

you can try stop leak or engine restore to help the seals a bit, but likely the rings are worn and causing some of that, and that you can't do anything about besides replacing the rings.

my original motor in my 95 celi (7afe) had 130k on it when i had a lean oil condition cause a jernal on the crank to spin.. i had been auto crossing with the car and had some oil burnning but not much (but still getting worse as time went on), at my last auto cross i had done a full check (you would have to be crazy to race w/o doing so) so i know i was at my required 5 qt lvl. i dont remember but i think that last change was even with royal purple, (10w-30) and a few ounces of seafoam. this combo had alway given me great results. 3 weeks later is when the event occured. when i got home and checked my oil, i had only about 1qt in the pan. so in 3 weeks i had 4 qts burn off!!! i check all over there was no leak. i did not have any significant amout of blueish/black smoke comming out the tail pipe... all of the researched that pulled up suggested blow by the rings, bad valves seats or bad valve seals.. or any combination or all of these conditions. i do remember that after the car would be warm, that if i opened the fill cap fot the oil, that there would be a small amount of smoke to come from inside the head.

the motor that i am in the proccess of re-building right now (a 96 7afe) shows signs of ALOT of oil being burned off, the seals were in pretty bad shape and am going to have the valve seats recut and the valves cut to match. every single valve leaks. at 218k on it, it was definatly on its way out. the sheer amount of carbon/oil build up on the face of the pistons and valves .. WOW nasty.. it seems that the 7a has a bad issue w/ all of the sealing elements failing after a given period of time. and i find it odd that there are a few examples out there that do not suffer from said conditions. for this motor i will be doing a carful break-in period. once i see that the oil system is well presurised, and that all checks out, i plan to do the "drive it like you stole it" method for the first 10-15 min of actual opertation. (supposed to help quick seal the new piston rings) and then do a controlled alternating engine RPM for the remaining 15-20 min.. then change oil..

i am hopeing that carfule attention to the break in, and a few choice mods will help with the life of the motor, and reliability under low boost. (target of 8-10 lbs on a ct26) i will be logging all conditions that i can at intervals.. interested in what i will find.

Well it looks like i have a tiny leak in the valve cover gasket so I'm guessing its coming from there. If I keep it topped then its not so bad. I'm due for another change in about 200 miles, anything I can add to help?

just replace the gasket and make sure you use some gasket maker/sealer on the required spots.. its a 10-15 min affair.. taking your time to remove the the old crap. i would do the spark plug tube seals and new acorn seals aswell wile your at it..

ill have to see how much they are given i dont have too much money with clinical starting next week. till then is there anything i can add to it?

here you go.. not too expencive, and a better solution than anything els out there.

thanks man =), ill have to get that next

NP

I know when I replaced my engine, I pulled the Tranny of my 7A and there was SO much oil in the housing. so if you cant find it you might need to look around there

Kevin