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> So I Hit Another Car
post Jun 5, 2011 - 7:37 PM
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brk34

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Project is moving along and I plan to look locally for a hood. Waiting for the epoxy that I used to fix a crack to cure.
post Jun 7, 2011 - 8:50 PM
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brk34

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Epoxy cured fine and I found a hood in a local junk yard. Problem is they don't ship. My options are 1) see if it will fit in my moms station wagon (or on it's roof) 2) rent a truck from home depot for ~$30. Any other ideas?
post Jun 10, 2011 - 9:30 PM
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brk34

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Guess no on the ideas. Found why the car wouldn't start reliably or shift out of park. When it stopped running while idling in my driveway I checked the wring and found a lose plug that I somehow missed despite checking several times.
post Jun 14, 2011 - 11:19 PM
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lilgreenyoda

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QUOTE (brk34 @ Jun 11, 2011 - 2:30 AM) *
Guess no on the ideas.


Out my way, we make friends with someone that has a truck and ask to borrow it and/or make an outing out of the deal...
post Aug 24, 2011 - 5:55 PM
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brk34

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Update
Got done with summer classes and drove to the junk yard and had them deliver the hood. Only $75 with free delivery. Worked out great just have to install the hood. Should be close to getting it on the road. Bumper and interior and it should be good.
post Aug 27, 2011 - 1:52 AM
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ricochet1490



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You've done some good work. I had to do something VERY similar haha. I found an entire other car for really cheap that had all of my parts. I got one of the A/C condensor bolts loose somehow, the other met a cut off wheel on my grinder lol. But here's my question for you, what did you do to get your airbag code to clear? I never did worry about clearing my codes as I was more concerned with getting it on the road. Should just be a computer reset through the diagnostic port right? I mean, I changed all parts with undamaged components... still screwed. so I am curious. But pm if you have any other questions about putting the front end back together and getting her back on the road. Congrats!


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post Aug 27, 2011 - 11:20 AM
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brk34

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You connect certain pins in the diagnostic port to ground in a specific manner. You also short two pins iirc. Find a copy of the factory manual and you're all set.
post Aug 27, 2011 - 11:39 AM
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ricochet1490



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QUOTE (brk34 @ Aug 27, 2011 - 11:20 AM) *
You connect certain pins in the diagnostic port to ground in a specific manner. You also short two pins iirc. Find a copy of the factory manual and you're all set.

I just wanted to make sure that was how to do it. The Celicatech has an online BGB and that's what it said to do, just making sure we were on the same page smile.gif


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post Aug 29, 2011 - 3:35 PM
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brk34

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Managed to get the hood installed and roughly centered. I will have to clean off the junkyard markings. I will upload pictures when I can.
post Aug 29, 2011 - 6:44 PM
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brk34

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Having problems getting the hood lock back in place any tips or pictures of an installation? For some reason it won't lock onto the hood.
post Aug 29, 2011 - 7:27 PM
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ricochet1490



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it's sitting too low. After i hit my deer, mine was. you have to do one of two things. Either A, find a way to pull the core support up(which means possibly damaging stuff tucked underneath of the lip, wiring etc. or B, what I did, take a side grinder with a cut off wheel, or if you have a plasma cutter or acetylene torch those will also work and my be required.... you need to modify the latch by cutting the holes out to be slots that run downward so you can slide the whole assembly up (some of the sheet metal shielding will need cut as well). That's what I did to get it to close because none of my stuff was busted, rad, condenser etc. and I didn't want to take it out. your latch bolts are flanged, so its no prob as long as you're within about 3/4 of an inch or so, you just need to tighten them down really good. Hope that helps... thats what my issue was anyway Especially if you know that your latch is otherwise functioning properly

This post has been edited by ricochet1490: Aug 29, 2011 - 7:29 PM


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post Aug 29, 2011 - 7:37 PM
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ricochet1490



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just looking at your pictures though, they're small, but it looks like your core support went up?! I would check to make sure your latch isn't locked over as if it were "shut"... that is if you can eliminate height of your latch being an issue. When I replaced my hood I literally bolted it on as it can only go in one place, slid it toward the windshield as far as I could and tightened it down, and it nearly latched perfect with the exception of it being too low...gaping and everything was perfect.... good luck


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post Aug 30, 2011 - 3:06 PM
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brk34

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I will check the height of the latch and the position (lock/unlock). I need to upload new pictures since I came up with a way to bend up the core support w/o damage to the wiring bundle.
post Sep 1, 2011 - 6:55 PM
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brk34

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The new hood has a fiberglass? insulater on the underside is this normal? The hood is from a GT, was this a difference between the GT and the ST models?
post Sep 1, 2011 - 11:15 PM
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ricochet1490



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totally normal. That "insulator" is a fire smother. ON the off chance that your motor catches on fire, that melts down around the engine to keep it from spreading and flaming up. It smothers it out. At least that's how I understand it


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post Sep 11, 2011 - 4:56 PM
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brk34

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I managed to get the hood to latch. I removed the wiring harness from underneath and then using a c-clamp, chain and a big piece of wood moved it forward. To push it up I used a long piece of wood and a jack.
post Sep 11, 2011 - 5:07 PM
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congrats!


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post Sep 17, 2011 - 2:11 PM
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brk34

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Started putting back the headlight. Noticed I need to bend back the piece that the bottom of the high beam bolts to. The part is named REINFORCEMENT SUB-ASSY, FRONT FENDER, TOP LH 53808‑20010. Looks cheaper to fix it just need to bend it and try to fit it.
post Dec 19, 2011 - 3:00 PM
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brk34

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Back again. Finals are just about done so I'm going to start working on it again. Sunroof is still leaking and it looks like I need to caulk it again.Also some part fell off. Looks like an exhaust hanger. I'll have a picture up soon.

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