6G Celicas Forums

What year is your car ?? How many miles ?? When did this problem start ?? What was the last mod/maintenance you did ?? Seriously if you don't even know how to post your car info you expect help ?? Well since I'm not a master mechanic (like the rest of these guys who posted) I would found out what the CEL is before I start diagnosing parts.

CEL=Check Engine Light

**I'm just joking about the master mechanic part so don't start throwing a tantrum lol**

^ You need to chill BUT you are also correct a year & model would be helpful.



Actually yes the voltage regulator will affect it, because if the volt reg is going bad it will stop flow from the alt. to the battery. I have seen this on many of cars as I work on them for a living, BUT that was me diading the ticking as I thought he was talking about the tick you get from a "dead" battery. Then again i've never heard an engine tick when its cranking except for bent valves or worn bearing.
Once again its not going to be the module itself that would cause an intermediate issue, but a wire causing a short to ground.
ALSO you have yet to check the fuel system.

An engine needs 3 things fuel, air, and compression to run.

1: Spark- First you want 2 start by checking that you have spark to the wires, an easy way is a screwdriver(sparkplug) at the end of the plug. If you dont have spark there you move to the coil plug, disconnect it and leave it just off the prong to allow the spark to jump. If no spark is there. Then you check the module, specs can be found in a chilton/haynes manual. If you dont have acces to one of these I would be more then happy to supply you with the info you need strait from toyota. P.S. If you have spark from coil but not 2 wires it's the cap/rotor

2: Fuel- Turn the key into the on possession, does the fuel pump turn on(it's a faint winding noise), If it does not go to the fuse box check to see if the fuse is blown, if not take your multi meter and check for 12v. If you have 12v move on to the fuel pump relay and check it for voltage. If 12v is there then you move on to the pump, does the pump have 12v. If the pump is in order then move on to you fuel rail. Crank the motor and use a fuel pressure gauge to check for fuel pressure(can be found in chilton/haynes). If it is LOW this can cause an inop of you injectors ability to pump fuel, if fuel pressure is correct move on to the injectors. Take a test light(noid light) and plug it into the injector and check for pulse width modulation by cranking the motor, if the light flashes repetitively then you Injectors are working.

3: Compression- Use a compression gauge to check for adequate psi.

If you have a bad or shorting sensor this will only affect spark, the fuel system is its own system and will only be affected by it own parts.
BTW I hade the same issue and fried 3 modules until I found out that my wiring loom was touching my egr tube causing the mod to short out. Thats the difference of thinking it and KNOWING IT

This post has been edited by hatchy_gt-s: Apr 26, 2012 - 1:08 PM

He is having intermitten(spelling?) no combustion conditions, but the engine is running smooth most of the time. The spark plug wires, cap and rotor can almost be ruled out. They would cause a misfire condition, not a nofire condition.Also the compression can be totally ruled out. There is absolutely no way he is getting intermitten compression unless I'm a total idiot about engines.

The fuse to the fuel pump doesnt need to be checked, unless it is somehow growing back through some form of magic every time it blows itself(this is an intermitten problem)

The module and coil WILL cause intermitten failures, one is a giant Heatsink the other is usually oil filled. This is because they both get extremely hot and will often stop working id there is a fault until they cool down.

The fuel system is not its own independent system on toyotas, the blue and yellow wire from the distributor are actually what control the injectors. A failed ignition system on a toyota can potentially kill the fuel injection system.


If the voltage regulator was damaged, most likely it would give TOO much electricity which would cook the battery(it would vent all the electolyte) and cause the electronics on the car to go ape****(things will turn on by themselves, ie stereo and headlights). But a voltage regulator isnt as common as a failed diode(which introduces alternating current and once again cooks the battery and makes the electronics go ape****) and most commonly just failed windings on the alternator(in which case its as active as a brick). Anyway you look at it the 9 times out of ten the battery is bad or both not the alternator by itself.

Yeah there seems to be an echo, an echo that is long winded in description

Sorry, sometimes I forget to explain myself fully to others. its a 97 SX 5sFE engine (so similar to your GT?) with 260,000 km. I've owned it for 4 years and it has always been maintained every 5000km or less. I bought it when it had 240,000km

Sorry Intermittent(You spells wrong 2) mine was auto txt.

I was just stating the steps on how to check a crank no start. I was giving him the tools to be able to diagnose this himself so that he could learn and not just do.

No, a bad voltage regulator would not cause an over voltage as ANY manufacture would have safety features to do the exact opposite.

The blue and yellow wire do NOT control the injectors but are an additional signal that tells the computer what cylinder its on as injectors fire before spark not during or after, same can be said about the crank/cam position they only inform the computer on where the engine is.

If it was an over heating issue he would see it happen after X amount of time but he isnt its happening at totally random times from long drives to not even out of the drive way, which reduces it to a short to ground issue.

God I feel like I'm in a ASE Tech A/Tech B senario