6G Celicas Forums

its not necessary but you can see the studs are no longer in horizontal position and the endlinks become a b*tch to take out because now you have to remove it a certain way. and you f'en destroy those factory length endlinks with a low drop height. plus small height drops to me are waste of money and time to do 1" drop. in general lowering the car does make it handle better cus you are lowering the center of gravity however, suspension is many different factors that must be considered, aftermarket parts and tuning the suspension for a specific application and so on and so forth. but yea you dont need shorter endlinks but you can tell the difference betweeen a good drop height that its tougher to get it in there and out plus companies supply the shorter ones too because of these drop heights. but shorter endlinks or adjustable endlinks is common talks in forums and is known by the industry because of adjustability and drop heights. or else they would just sell factory lengths with just better bushings and no adjustability (adjustability for tuning and length adjustment). my questions for the most part in this thread is just to ask about the products itself.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 28, 2012 - 5:37 PM

I have found this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CELICA-ST182-ST1...f#ht_1251wt_952

is for the t18 celicas nut if I am not mistaken there are members that use t18s endlinks for the t20s, but again I am not sure.

so what is your opinion on this?

And something else about the polyurethane , I heard that there are need to grease them frequently or else they squeek
is this true or it is a problem of some certain manufacturers?

Not sure about PU in the end links but I've had it in my front LCAs for about a year now and still no squeeking and I haven't greased then since I put then in.
Also, just put PU around my sway bar in the rear and haven't heard anything from then yet

I just installed the RacingBeat end links in my car a few days ago, replacing the 4 year old AutoZone specials. I didn't notice any immediate huge difference with them, but these are definitely much sturdier and much better quality. After a few days of driving and taking a few small corners, I can tell that the car feels a bit tighter. Overall I'm very pleased with these and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

I also ran into a snag with shipping, and customer service was very quick to correct the issue and get them out to me a few days before I was expecting them.

gt4 racing endlinks have been around for some time, but i dont think anyone ever bought them on this site. i was interested in buying them at one point, they have the same design as the whiteline models. I would more than likely get them the 2nd time around if i still have the car or needed it. they were going for like 169 shipped for all 4 to Guam but IDK it might be cheaper to the states. ask the guy for discount, the site is gt4-racing. I'd be interested to know the results of the install.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 27, 2012 - 11:02 PM

one argue that you need spherical end links as to where the racing beat is just plain bolt on. so who is right? yes I read with racing beat it wears all other parts alot faster. that with spherical end links you put the stress on the sway bar it self as to with racing beat you put stress on the shock.

when i think of it does the sway bar even move much at all??? if so how much??

ahh found this link. the rear suspension on a subaru is the same as our FWD celica's and the same as gt4 celica's. read the first post on this page as written by a suspension company the difference between poly and spherical end links.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...1293&page=2

also another subaru website:

e offer several brands and styles of endlinks. I've sold a whole lot of endlinks and there have been happy customers with every brand and style we sell. Endlinks are a part that can be designed and built in very different ways each having its own drawbacks and advantages. Up until recently the two most popular styles were spherical bearing and urethane bushing endlinks. Both of these designs have issues. Spherical bearing endlinks are known to make noise in some cases. This is usually because dirt has gotten into the bearing. Urethane bushing endlinks have also been known to make noise in some cases. If a bolt doesn't pass through them at a 90 degree angle it puts stress on everything. Other types of endlinks allow free movement, but urethane endlinks resist anything that is not 90 degrees. In many cases this is not severe enough to cause binding and noise problems, but it is definitely a possibility. The other problem with urethane bushings is they are soft. They flex around quite a bit which puts a buffer between the swaybar and lower control arm. They don 't allow the swaybar to do its job as quickly or effectively, so they don’t perform as well.

The new style I have been running and recommending is called a ball link. Whiteline started offering sealed ball link endlinks in 2010. This style of endlink brings together the best of both worlds. They perform significantly better than urethane bushing endlinks since they don't use spongy urethane bushings. They also fit better than urethane bushing endlinks since they allow free movement, but unlike spherical bearing endlinks they don't make noise. They cost a little more than urethane endlinks, but the difference in fit/performance is well worth the price.


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jan 14, 2013 - 6:53 PM

the difference is with spherical bearings (assuming they are centered), the outer strut is able to travel a certain amount before it puts load on the inner strut while cornering. with polyurethane bushings, there is no room for play in the endlinks so as soon as there is suspension travel one strut, it immediately puts load on the opposite strut and that's why some people are against it as it basically behaves as non-independent suspension. for better ride quality on bumpy road surfaces, spherical is better as it allows for more independent suspension travel. however, if you want more oversteer and don't care much about ride quality, polyurethane is better.

these endlinks are a cheap upgrade for oversteer. since our cars are fwd and have a light rear-end, i actually preferred the oversteer. i also didn't care so much about ride quality since i was already on stiffened lowering springs and also coilovers at one point in time. ideally, you want to start off with an aftermarket sway bar first, see if that suits your needs. if there's still too much sway, then consider getting polyurethane end links, or increasing the stiffness in your dampers (if you have coilovers) and/or switch to stiffer springs.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:42 PM

ya here a few vids and I don't see the end link moving much at all. i just can't find the other video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1o-TvZQdek