Official "custom" exhaust thread, for all engines |
Official "custom" exhaust thread, for all engines |
Dec 31, 2011 - 10:22 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 23, '11 From kenton ohio Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can. Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless. Hope this helps, -James- Sounds like you have bad luck with shops. The shop I went to did a great job an used Ss tubing My head cost around 90 an I'm happy with it. An if your worried about the level of work the shop does talk around an see who most people seem to trust Oh an I went with over axle because of 2 reasons I wanted my exhaust close to the car an I didn't know it was possible to run under axle at the time lol didn't do my research quote as well as you are -------------------- 95 gt coupe, v6 swap weekend toy
99 gt hatch beams swapped wife's 94 st hatch my daily driver http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82235 n |
Jan 10, 2012 - 3:28 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
please tell me these guys are out of their minds. They want to charge me $3000 for a custom made Stainless Steel SUS304 exhaust system. haha that won't even be including the resonator and muffler of my choice. All this I've been hearing you won't find anything cheaper than $1000 dollars. The $1,000 i heard was for the header and down-pipe alone, from some guys over at the beams redtop forums.... what the helk!!!
-------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
Jan 10, 2012 - 10:37 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 2, '07 From Berlin, WI Currently Offline Reputation: 18 (100%) |
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can. Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless. Hope this helps, -James- looks like I know who to go to for my exhaust. what's up with ur car anyway? -------------------- *1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS *1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser *2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost 2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun. |
Jan 10, 2012 - 10:55 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 19, '11 From Paraguay, Winchestertonfieldville Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
****, for 3 grand you can import a blitz nur spec from japan lol
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Jan 10, 2012 - 1:49 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 4, '05 From western MD/NOVA Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can. Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless. Hope this helps, -James- He speaks the truth though, the BEST way IS to just do it your self.. plot it out, buy the bends, cut the cuts, do all the prep work (and make sure to mark the alignment marks) and then take a weekend to bring it to a friend who has the ability to weld it.. though IMO if you are going to go SS, get it TIG welded. ive charge friends a 24pk of dew and pizza's for the days' worth of work.. for full fab i'll usually charge about 1/4 of the going rate.. that way i get more practice and some $$ in my pocket. if you do the prep im sure you can get it done in the span of a weekend, and not have to go driving off w/o an exhaust.. -------------------- |
Jan 11, 2012 - 12:00 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
****, for 3 grand you can import a blitz nur spec from japan lol haha well turns out these guys are top notch. the company I would buy the material from provides exhaust systems for NHRA race cars. So you can imagine why they products are so expensive. the thing is that they don't do the fab work. Some guy 3 garages over does the fabrication.... but still seriously they are out of their minds. I might go to mexico to fab up or just buy the Stainless Steel SUS304 material haha I'm only 2 hours from Tijuana Mexico hehe -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
Jan 11, 2012 - 12:42 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 23, '11 From kenton ohio Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) |
****, for 3 grand you can import a blitz nur spec from japan lol haha well turns out these guys are top notch. the company I would buy the material from provides exhaust systems for NHRA race cars. So you can imagine why they products are so expensive. the thing is that they don't do the fab work. Some guy 3 garages over does the fabrication.... but still seriously they are out of their minds. I might go to mexico to fab up or just buy the Stainless Steel SUS304 material haha I'm only 2 hours from Tijuana Mexico hehe What ever you do don't drink the water lol -------------------- 95 gt coupe, v6 swap weekend toy
99 gt hatch beams swapped wife's 94 st hatch my daily driver http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82235 n |
Jan 11, 2012 - 12:29 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '10 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
Hey guys, I know it isn't a custom exhaust, but I have the chance to buy a brand new Greddy SP exhaust for $390, does this sound like a decent deal? This is the first I have seen for sale in forever, so it is hard for me to gauge a good price.
EDIT: I went ahead and pulled the trigger on this, hopefully I didn't get ripped off, but from what I can tell the Greddy SP has a nice mellow sound, and I can install it myself. The exhaust I had been planning was going to cost me ~600, so I saved a good bit, and got a brand new exhaust that I haven't seen available for a long time. This post has been edited by Arsaces: Jan 11, 2012 - 1:19 PM |
Jan 11, 2012 - 2:29 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 24, '09 From Appleton, Wisconsin 54915 Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) |
I wouldn't suggest you let ANY shops do any exhaust work. From my experience they are pretty useless unless they have a mandrel bender that can handle stainless steel piping and an actual WELDER working there. I made the mistake of having a shop make me a downpipe, they said aluminized steel would be best(i said i wanted stainless, they refused ) The bends were mediocre at best and the weld job was so HORRIBLE i actually walked up to the person welding and their manager and told them to allow me to weld it (they weren't happy, lol). Then they proceeded to charge me $200 for it. So i made sure to let them know i would be spreading the word about their handy work. Maybe its just the shops ive been to but the people are lazy, inexperienced and overcharge to the max. Or maybe my standards are too high? I just expected them to fab me a downpipe that wouldn't leak and wasn't welded in the same place 5 times to cover a single seam. Is that too much to ask? (They failed too.) Come to think of it when i had my tires put on and alignment done, they underinflated my tires and took my celica for a joyride. Undecided, If anything i would suggest you map out the way you want your exhaust system to be mounted. Buy the exhaust tubing you need, cut and do a mock fit up. Then bring it to a friend that has a welder and have them weld it up. It will be much cheaper that way if your only spending money on the parts and giving a friend some cash for the work. You can buy stainless or aluminized U-bends, J-bends, UJ- bends, 45deg, 60deg and 90deg bends and straight piping online. And if you can't find anyone, and you're willing to drive to appleton on a weekend, let me know before hand and im sure i can weld it for you. I have a Miller MIG welder i used to cover up the shops welds. Right now i can't work on mine so i might as well help others anyway i can. Btw, There are quite a few members that use the "ebay" header and have great success with them. No need to spend $180 on a $100 header unless its for preference cause in the end unless specified, they are all stainless. Hope this helps, -James- looks like I know who to go to for my exhaust. what's up with ur car anyway? When ever you want your exhaust done, let me know, I'll do what i can. Im going to try to find some stainless wire for my miller and get a tank of straight argon for it. I can't afford the TIG welder i want but im sure a MIG will do just fine. Otherwise i can weld it with a torch and stainless filler rod. :-D BTW, I can only work on weekends. I work at Oshkosh Corp and they have me working 45+ hours a week. |
Apr 12, 2012 - 12:02 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 2, '12 From texas hill country Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
wow so much information to absorb
i have a 5sfe 99 gt. im trying to determine whether or not the stock header is be better for cruising or fast takeoffs or is it a middle ground or does it just suck. i want to replace my first cat with a new one possibly hi flow but get rid of the second since the computer doesn't know its there anyway. if i do get an aftermarket header, do they all delete the first cat? im also trying to shed a little weight. im hoping that an aftermarket header will weigh significantly less than the stock cast iron one. any input on that? who has dyno charts to prove gains with their header? |
May 10, 2012 - 6:27 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
wow so much information to absorb i have a 5sfe 99 gt. im trying to determine whether or not the stock header is be better for cruising or fast takeoffs or is it a middle ground or does it just suck. i want to replace my first cat with a new one possibly hi flow but get rid of the second since the computer doesn't know its there anyway. if i do get an aftermarket header, do they all delete the first cat? im also trying to shed a little weight. im hoping that an aftermarket header will weigh significantly less than the stock cast iron one. any input on that? who has dyno charts to prove gains with their header? the header design thats sold on ebay for the 5sfe isn't the greatest. It abruptly goes from 4 to 1 in a matter of 6-8 inches. It needs to be a gradual design. So not very much hp with that header, but better than oem for sure. on another note, take a look at this 1996 ITR bpipe setup. Better and smoother flowing than the 3sge beams motor: vs Heat shields removed This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Sep 12, 2013 - 11:19 PM -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
May 19, 2012 - 2:40 PM |
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Moderator Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
Alright, I need everyone's advice. I know literally nothing about aftermarket exhausts in terms of which are the freest flowing, loudest, etc. I've been running the factory 2" GT exhaust with my BEAMS for nearly a year now, with the exhaust reduced right after the B pipe. It's time to upgrade. I'm still deciding between the stock 2.25" exhaust for the BEAMS or going with 2.5". My main focus isn't power, it's volume. I want this to be as quiet as possible. I'm currently looking at a Magnaflow high flow cat and a Vibrant Performance ultra quiet resonator ( http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/inde...=1022_1033_1055 ) with either a Flowmaster 40 series or a Vibrant Performance flat black Streetpower muffler ( http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/inde...=1022_1031_1109 ). Any insight as to which I would be better off with? Once again, my primary goal is as quiet as possible. bloodMoney has advised me to get a second resonator installed if I still want it quieter.
This post has been edited by richee3: May 19, 2012 - 2:41 PM -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
May 21, 2012 - 12:11 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
great choice for the vibrant resonator, and any magnaflow or flowmaster oem canister style muffler will be suffice enough. If you decide to fit the high flow catalytic converter it won't be loud. It'd just be a waste of money putting on two resonator.
Well assuming most exhaust shops do crush bent piping. You can get 2.25 inch (oem piping) over the rear subframe. what do you mean volume??! -------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
May 21, 2012 - 9:48 AM |
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Moderator Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
I like my car quiet Anything louder than stock is too loud, which is why I kept the GT 2" system in the first place. I believe this is far too restrictive and causing some minor issues with the BEAMS, so I need something larger but I'd like it to be as quiet as possible.
Oh, and my local exhaust shop does mandrel bending This post has been edited by richee3: May 21, 2012 - 9:49 AM -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
May 24, 2012 - 10:59 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 14, '08 From St. Louis Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
Richee, Actually, I have pretty much the exhaust that you're looking at.
ebay 5sfe header, 2.5" pipe, magnaflow hi-flow cat, Vibrant ultra-quiet resonator, and magnaflow muffler. Its not quiet, louder than stock for sure, but sounds good. However, lately I think I may have torn my flex pipe or something because its gotten relatively loud up front. I've been thinking about putting my stock header back on in preparation for selling/trading the car so that I could then sell the header and my short ram intake to someone here for cheap. -------------------- '99 Celica GT - Sold
'11 Mazdaspeed3 |
May 25, 2012 - 12:05 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 31, '11 From Rochester, NY Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
I've got a Tanabe Medallion G-Power JASMA header and a 2.25" exhaust that goes into a Vibrant Performance ultra-quiet resonator and Vibrant Performance straight through muffler. Working on getting the down pipe made because the headers angle funny at the flange at the bottom. (They're designed for the 2.0 3S-GE motor originally, but fit perfect on the 5S-FE [btw all the S motors have the same specs for exhaust header mounts] and give added tube length for longer draw and higher performance.)
My co-worker is going to help me re-route it under the axle. Idc about mandrel bent exhaust because the exhaust isn't hitting the inside wall of the pipe... the whole idea of Mandrel bending isn't that special. It's like the idea of intakes making a huge difference. You wont feel a difference. The only thing I can see that mandrel bending is good for is keeping rust away from the folds/nooks in the exhaust. I may still buy a mandrel bent section of pipe though, simply because it looks clean and nice haha. It's going to get painted in ceramic exhaust paint anyway. This post has been edited by RabidTRD: May 25, 2012 - 12:08 AM -------------------- 1994 Toyota Celica GT-S 5S-FE 190k Miles. Project car 1992 Toyota Celica GT 5S-FE 170k Miles. Daily driver/beater 1999 Toyota Camry LE 5S-FE 216K Miles. RIP You will be missed. *ASE Certified General Manager |
May 26, 2012 - 1:35 PM |
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Moderator Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
Richee, Actually, I have pretty much the exhaust that you're looking at. ebay 5sfe header, 2.5" pipe, magnaflow hi-flow cat, Vibrant ultra-quiet resonator, and magnaflow muffler. Its not quiet, louder than stock for sure, but sounds good. However, lately I think I may have torn my flex pipe or something because its gotten relatively loud up front. I've been thinking about putting my stock header back on in preparation for selling/trading the car so that I could then sell the header and my short ram intake to someone here for cheap. Hmm... I was hoping to hear a little better than that. I've accepted that my setup will be louder than stock but I'm hoping it will only be marginally louder. I've heard bloodMoney's Flowmaster 40 series and it's pretty quiet, but it's still on stock piping. Why are you selling the car? [btw all the S motors have the same specs for exhaust header mounts] I'm going to have to respectfully disagree BEAMS headers are not interchangeable with any other engine. They have to be as difficult as possible in every way they can Would both of you guys say that the Ultra Quiet resonator is a good investment? This post has been edited by richee3: May 26, 2012 - 1:39 PM -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
May 27, 2012 - 12:32 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 24, '08 From Orange County, CA Currently Offline Reputation: 33 (100%) |
yea vibrant or magnaflow 14 inch resonator either or!!!
-------------------- Group buy to replicate Narrow E series transaxle parts
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...p;#entry1107514 |
Jun 3, 2012 - 2:37 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 20, '12 From Florida Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
So...after reading all of this,I have a7afe and I'm going to buy headers off of Ebay, and go with 2.50 piping magnaflow cat, and possibly dynomax muffler. I'm looking not get become a bumble bee, there are enough of those in fl. Any recommendations on if this would sound good? Looking for a deep tone. Had dynomax before and loved the sound on both corollas I used to have. Also what size cat cause when I look to do buy there are so many different lengths or does it matter how long u need it?
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Jun 3, 2012 - 4:10 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 4, '12 From US Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
I know it's all subjective but I find dynomax mufflers loud and tinny.
Borlas are deep and loud. Magnaflow are deep and low, not loud... I love Magnaflow mufflers, especially their stock-looking oval ones. -------------------- 1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold
1994 Celica GT Liftback |
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