6G Celicas Forums

Are they knock-off ebay parts or the real deal that you are using?

my couplers are from vibrant performance, and I believe my pipes are as well. My blow off is the real deal Tial Q, hopefully putting another spring in there will help (A friend has some lying around) from what ive read on Tial's spring settings, i need an 10 or 11psi spring as the 3ssgte vac ranges from 18-20.

does that vaccum reading sound correct? I remember it always reading about 19 or 20 on the ninja turtle 1. and it was about 18 before taking the manifold off IIRC.

took off BOV (tial Q) and shimmed it to strenghten the spring, as it was opening under idle.

took off downpipe and inspected wastegate flap which would stick open a little when we played with the actuator rod, adjusted it a little bit, and took it for a ride.

Unfortunately STILL no boost is being made. I have an extra wastegate from a ct20B hopefully we can test that one and the one currently on the car further.

my next step will be taking the cap off of the top of the wastegate and switching it with the line running from the turbo which is now hooked to the line at the bottom of the wastegate.

I cant believe just threading the head could cause all of this foolishness....


also checked the hot side of turbo no shaft play, and it spins freely.

hey guys, brief update....

cam (boosted185/phoenixtech) came up to visit for a drift event, and we talked about the problem, and he noticed that the w/g rod was actually bent a bit, (as suspected). he suggested replacing and all would be well!

here's the WEIRD part....


while i was at a light I ran out of my car to engage in random foolishness, but to make a long story short, i did a wheelhopping burnout, and then i noticed that my boost kicked in. apparently the vibration shook something loose, causing the w/g to free up a bit I suppose.


WEIRD o.O im still not satisfied with the consistency of the boost (will only hit 6.5psi instead of high7's) which means the w/g is still open partially but im glad i know exactly what it is, however not the question is how to go about unsticking it (as was stated above)


the w/g isnt getting hung up on anything so i guess it was just acting "weird". I have no idea why

thanks for the help! everyone!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: May 27, 2012 - 7:15 AM

Matt, is your turbo clocked? If it is, make sure the plate holding the wastegate is not flexing/moving when you boost.

actually no, its still in its stock position, it was boosting ok yesterday, then this morning when i was driving, it wouldnt go into boost again, at first it went to 5psi, then eventually back down to 0psi. going to see if anyone has a ct20b wastegate, I will also try to fiddle around with the rod. Just not sure exactly which direction to go. really trying to avoid buying another one

Are you still using the stock VSV?

yeah stock VSV still in place

No it's not. The VSV was eliminated when you went to the Tru-Boost.

thats right, i confused it with something else. thanks cam!

quick update, the car is still not building boost, tested the wastegate and it would not hold vaccum. SO I used my BACKUP wastegate off my old ct20b, would be my luck that that one didnt work either so a good friend of mine made a custom bracket for me and made some snazzy welding mods to a new rod and we came up with this:




these are the old wastegates:





took the car out for a drive and it held to 3lbs then eventually dropped, and would not build boost at all eventually. got some advice and im inclined to believe that the turbo has gone bad. i have NO idea how it could have gone bad as it worked fine before.

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Jun 5, 2012 - 8:13 PM

Matt...

1. Out of all the 3sgte owners over all the years, none of them had ever had a bad wastegate actuator that needed to be replaced.
2. when a turbo "goes bad" it either produces ZERO boost (because the exhaust fins are missing) or it produces boost like normal but spits out lots of blue smoke from oil burning.

A bad turbo or a bad wastegate is not your problem.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 6, 2012 - 9:01 AM

Can you take a general picture of your engine bay, intercooler piping, and a close up of the turbo/downpipe/manifold area?

How are you measuring boost? What brand of boost gauge are you using and where is it connected to?





NO IT DOES NOT!
The difference between 6.5 or 7.5 or whatever is due to the accuracy of the boost gauge, and also the elevation of where you live and the weather temperature outside. Just because the wastegate is said to be set to 7psi from the factory, doesn't mean that you will get EXACTLY 7.0psi.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 5, 2012 - 9:58 PM

Put the stock wastegate back on.
Remove the boost controller and just connect the port from the turbo to the port on the wastegate together with some good quality 4mm fuel line hose. Then take the car for a ride an see if you can make anywhere from 5-8psi of boost. If you can, everything is working correctly and you need to then install your boost controller and set it up for more boost.




Because you put some crazy aftermarket wastegate actuator on that was never meant to be used with this turbo and your flapper door is probably blowing open every time you boost.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jun 6, 2012 - 9:02 AM

Im hoping its not either w/g or turbo, I took out my w/g and a friend of mine tested it using a hand held pump with a vaccum meter on it, and neither of my old w/g would hold vaccum. Additionally, I can pull the wastegate rod by hand, which was previously difficult to do.




I will definately take pics of the engine bay ic piping etc. I am measuring boost by way of AEM tru boost. The Tru boost is not controlling anything at the moment, and is only connected to read PSI.
As far as the inaccurate reading I appreciate you clearing that part up for me! I was going by a number that was quite consistent from a certain period of time to it not being consistent at all, however it wont get that high anymore.



The boost controller was not hooked to the turbo or wastegate until i broke the motor in I have always used the 4mm fuel line hose going from the turbo to the port on the wastegate, i have never messed with it or anything The car behaves in the exact same way as when I put the new wastegate on. boost goes to zero (no smoke, and all fins are intact on the turbo)

I DO hear a loud whirring noise when under load as if the car is spooling, I dont think it is a leak because Ive used the boost leak tester for the system and heard nothing.

I'll take some pics tonight. I really appreciate all the help!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Jun 6, 2012 - 2:48 PM

hey man, if you checked you wastegate and turbo and its working properly. them im almost 100% sure you got a leak somewhere. i was having trouble boosting a while back and i also tested for leaks and although i couldnt hear any i moved my hand around couplings and pipes and i felt a strong current of air coming from my BOV. and sure enough the o-ring connecting the bov to the bov flange wasnt sealing right. i bought a thicker o-ring and added silicone all around...


and... shhhhassssam! im boosting normally.....

i too was hearing a loud noise when i was spooling, but i didnt think it was a leak,...instead i was like: " man, this turbo spools loud..." lol
and now that the leak is gone, my spooling is not as loud as before with the leak

forgot to mention, i also tightened the arm on the internal wastegate a few more turns cause it was just snug..now its a bit tighter, to ensure a proper seal




i hope this helps........

This post has been edited by batcavee00: Jun 20, 2012 - 4:19 PM

you might want to check that alloy plate from time to time as it may bend, i would have that piece made from steel and painted

oh its secured pretty thick, would be pretty hard for it to bend. Im going to remove the BOV and just put an aluminum pipe in its place and see what happens.

in all my troubles with turbochargers and boost on the 3sgte, the problem has ALWAYS been too much boost.

when my original ct20b went out, it made a very loud whine like a dieing animal, and then it made 0 boost as the turbo shaft snapped somewhere in the centre cartridge,

my car has always been able to make atleast 10psi boost with the clamps undone so i highly doubt its "just a boost leak"

also, using a 3psi spring in a 44mm tial wastegate im still getting creep up to 10-12psi

sounds dumb, but did you overlook checking out both sides of the turbo? you spun one end freely, but did that equally spin the other end??? to me it seems theoretically impossible to make 0 boost short of not having the turbo hooked up at all

Have you tried using a boost leak tester, it's easy to make one.
Cheers: Dom

hey mate, I heard no loud whine, but I have checked my cold side and hot side before no shaft play, and both spun freely. some friend and i were kickin some ideas around and we believe my wastegate flap is staying open somehow. but there is no way to tell short of putting it on a dyno and putting it under load to see. I am going to take my downpipe off again to be SURE there is no play and in going to look at the fins on the hot side to be sure theyre not chipped or anything (which i doubt)

that new wastegate I have is VERY stiff, so i couldnt understand why i was still gettin no boost until a pal of mine said it may be so stiff that its just stuck in its position. so this is prompting me to take off my downpipe and look at the flap to see if it is open a crack, as he says this would cause me to build no boost EVEN if its just open slightly




thanks dom, yeah i used a home made boost leak tester and put it on the intake side of the turbo, i only turned it up to like 3-5 psi but i heard no leaking air its looking like this is either turbo or flapper issue