6G Celicas Forums

Answer this: WHERE IS IT LEAKING FROM?
If it's just off the oil pump, it's not that hard to do and you don't have to replace everything either. If it's running fine otherwise, just leave it. From what I know, I still have the original head gasket in mine and she's at 236,000 miles. I just have to replace the gasket on my oil pump this summer and the leak on my 5s should go away.

so wheres a good place to buy a 7afe whole gasket set then i guess ill just rebuild my engine like you said it will be brand new, and i wont have to worry about worrying about it being a bad jdm engine

Mechanic guy i know looked at it and said its mostly on the right side of motor. You can jusy see it all over the right side. Its all over the place right where the timing belt is. Thing that concerns me is, now my oil light is on and wont go off even tho it has oil in it. And my car has always been silent, couldnt even hear it run. Now i can def hear it. You guys are talking thousands...**** i duno what to do now.

clean it off and then run the motor so you know where its leaking. i thought it was already clarified that you needed to either rebuild or buy a new engine, in this case, if its just leaking oil and not overheating/mixing, then just fix the leak, and drive it again till you really need a rebuild. unless you have compression issues. if you take it to a mechanic that could cost about 2k or so, but if you rebuild your motor, if you knew how or willing to and have the tools, it could save you. but the bottom line is figure out the true problem before getting any solutions yet.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 13, 2012 - 11:27 PM

Ya trd, it somehow still goes like hell!! Just runs a good bit louder than it did, and the oil light stays on. Other than that it still runs great. So from all u guys have told me i should just get the seals replaced for right now.?

Yup, fix it and run it till it dies

I had been toying with the thought of buying myself a used 5sfe for my car so when something dies on it (timing belt, water pump, main seals, etc), I can just swap the entire shortblock instead of trying to fix it in the car. I don't know if that would really save me any time or not, but it may be cheaper to buy a shortblock and do the work yourself instead of having someone else change a timing belt.

Depending on your resources, it is another option you have. But definitely make sure that you know exactly what the problem is first and get prices for shops to fix that. That way you have a baseline to compare against.

Get it rebuilt man or just buy a used one and swap it out. It'd prolly be close to 2k either way at the end of the day, here's your keys, have a nice day...

I was leaking 3 quarts a week due to oil pump cover. There are 4 places the leak can be coming from. You need to just take off the timing cover to see everything. Cam seals(2) probably not, front crank seal (mabey but mine was fine, oil pump cover seal is cheap and will fall apart and just dissapear. You can visually see what you need by removing the timing belt cover. It is easy, cut off the belts, undo motor mount, take out fender splash, remove harmonic balanncer(I had to buy a chain wrench) put a jack under engine with wood block, undo timing covers carefully raising and lowring to get to them, and wip clean. I never put my cover back on yet. i think someday I should do water pump. I say cut off the belts because you can get new ones on by just prying them on and rotating engine.The steering belt tensioner for that is a pita. Save many $$ possibly.
Good luck

This post has been edited by xrav22: Jun 15, 2012 - 8:32 PM

well guys, it happened... was going down road an hour ago and it blew. so, i need a cheap engine now.. would one of those cheap jdm ones work? is it just plug and play or what? i read somewhere that the harness is in a different spot. WHERE CAN I GET A CHEAP RELIABLE 7AFE NOW? FUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!

Ebay has some for less than $700. Most are compression tested, inspected, and come with a 30 - 90 limited warranty.

Junkyard, wherever you get it from run a compression test on it before you start wrenching on it.

You should only need the bottom end, and it will be far cheaper for you to purchase the tools and an engine crane and do it yourself than to try to pay someone else to do it.

plus, paying a buddy in pizza and beer to help will save you a ton of time and money.

This post has been edited by jimmykay: Jun 16, 2012 - 9:48 AM

its called an FRS now.

dont worry about JDM engines and where stuff is, you are going to ONLY use the loong block, you will use all of your manifolds and sensors and wiring.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jun 16, 2012 - 11:05 AM

Hmm...so i can use. a jdm engine? Wont matter bout the wire harness goin into a different spot?

If you get a JDM 7A-FE all you will need IMHO is the shortblock( the block with pistons, rods, crankshaft, bearings, and rings assembled) or as Smaay said a longblock(short block with oil pan, cylinder head, oil pump, timing components, headgasket and camshafts assembled) would be easier.
You would reuse your existing wiring, ECU, ignition system, intake manifold and sensors not the ones with the jdm engine. Its the easiest route and the only way to legally pass federal emissions.

Why not buy one from a local scrap yard
A good 7a shouldn't be to hard to find state side

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Toyota-Celica...f7b&vxp=mtr

Yes it is for GT didn't notice he had ST.

This post has been edited by xrav22: Jun 16, 2012 - 9:17 PM

thats a 5sfe

You could just pull off all of the accessories yourself, remove the head, and then just pull your block out and bring it to a machine shop to have it cleaned and machined and rebuilt. I bet that'd cost you 3 or 4 hundred bucks and it'd be good as new. Then you could put it back in yourself and install all the accessories on. Just going off what others said and adding a bit more.