6G Celicas Forums

Member name: Jay
Market: USDM
Year: 95
Model: GT
Frame & Type: ST204 convertible
Engine: factory --> swapped. 5S-FE --> Gen III 3sgte
transmission: stock

Update: Just installed an Innovate Motorsports dual gauge, pressure/temp gauge with two 3-way switches, one for selecting between coolant and oil pressure and one for selecting between coolant and oil temp. (Jan 2015)

Video of the car running here! and a time lapse video of the GTFour front end install here

(recent pic Jan 2016)


installed 7th gen steering wheel from a shiftronic model Celica!! Found in junkyard for cheap. Using the buttons for I/C sprayers.


I figure it's about time for me to start my old thread again. I bought a 3sgte that had been parted out, got it for a good deal, but I needed a lot of hard to find parts. I would start a thread when I was on a roll then I hit a stopping point because of a lack of certain key parts. Spent a long time trying to find everything, and now I have all of the engine parts and I'm not too far from completion.



Significant other mods:
Engine block basics:
45k miles
.20 overbore, JN pistons, eagle rods (compression raised to 9.0:1)
stock head gasket
knife-edged crankshaft (with custom crank scraper to block oil from being kicked up inside the engine and keep it in the pan)
ARP main studs (with the little section shaved out of the oil pan for them to fit)

Engine head:
non-turbo 3sge head WITH turbo cams/springs and 3sgTe powder coated valve cover
HKS cam adjustable cam gears (currently set at 0)
ARP head studs

Accessories:
4th gen alternator, direct bolt in (and higher output)
4th gen compressor, direct bolt in
stock power steering pump (new though)

Electrical:
Autronic SM4 EMS
4 wire o2 sensor upgrade (currently not in use)
Haltech Dual Channel Wideband controller (one sensor), output to ecu.
Innovate Motorsports dual series pressure/temperature gauge
Two 3-way switches to select between oil/coolant pressure and oil/coolant temp in dual gauge
3-way switch triggering secondary relays to turn the fans on. (switch off = relay off, system works as if stock...switch on pos1 = relays triggered on and fans are always on...switch on pos2 = relay is triggered on when the EMS is set to trigger it on.

Turbo:
stock CT20b
FMIC air/air for Nissan S14/S15(removed/replaced)
Mishimoto FMIC mounted to crashbar
HKS SSQV BOV
MAP sensor is built in to the Autronic
K&N filter (with blue rim) conical 4 inch inlet
stock VSV controlled by Autronic

Trans:
stock st204 5sfe trans
Aisin clutch with TRD pads riveted in place
Fizanda flywheel

Fuel:
stock genIII injectors, upgraded fuel pump (walbro, gss342 for mazda mx3)

Coolant sys:
Mishimoto radiator
Silicone hoses (blue )
3-way switch controlling two 5-pin relays breaking the connection for the stock fans (on/off/on = relay-on.always-ground/relay-off.factory-controlled-fans/relay-on.SM4-controlled)

Ignition system:
Audi 1.8t individual coils
distributor is stock and the pickup inside is only used to give the Autronic the engine time. (set at 0 degrees instead of normal advance, timing is advanced in the ECU)
NGK iridium IK24 spark plugs(killed by strong Audi ign coils)
BKR6E plugs (have to change every 10k miles)

Exhaust:
aftermarket downpipe (3inch)
3 inch mandrel bent piping into 3 inch magnaflow catalytic into 2.5 inch reducer (interchangeable resonator if I unbolt the cat)
2.5 inch piping into Borla universal turbo muffler

Other:
cheap ebay breather filter for crank vent.
custom air filter heat shield
custom battery tray mounted above trans mount
custom fuse box for SM4 and extra components
modified washer fluid reservoir to mount around FMIC piping

Wiring was a little bit of a mess at this stage because I was in the middle of building the new harness...




This post has been edited by match220: Mar 21, 2016 - 8:05 PM

A 3s swapped vert would be an amazing summer car hood luck

and some old pictures..

FMIC from s14/s15 hyrbid


just the head


Making the arp main studs fit..

The most recent video update

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWvn3Lzv5Jg

This is gonna a quick one Hawaii Cars FTW!!!

I'm still working on wiring, so it's still a little bit of a mess until everything is done.

intake and some intercooler routing, waiting on some silicone tubing to squeeze between the intake pipe and I havanother 90 bend to aim it down off of the turbo.

individual coils from jetta 1.8t

4th gen alt..and trying to figure out how to route the other half of the intake

intercooler


This post has been edited by match220: Jun 23, 2012 - 6:39 AM

And here's some pics of my injector wire-in, I'm actually going to post a pinout for each of the 3sgte connectors on the harness and how to connect an autronic to them for distributorless or distributed setups. I'll probably start the thread over in "forced induction" later on tonight or tomorrow (if I have time)

Did a little plastic fabricating the other day..I had a busted timing belt cover that someone gave me which was the result of a snapped belt. I cut out a window and put off-brand cheap Plexiglas on the inside with 4 LEDs wired in series so they can run on approximately 13 - 14 volts. (each LED is 3.2 - 3.5 volts).

The wiring was done outside of the cover away from the belt for obvious reasons. The only wire on the inside of the cover is running across the bottom in one of the pictures. I drilled tiny holes that are spaced as far apart as the LED +/- legs are, so that the legs stuck out of the cover and only the light was inside, bent the legs so they wouldn't let the LED slip through and soldered them together. Covered it all with black RTV and put a thick coat of truckbed liner over the outside of the cover so it covered the wires and RTV. You can barely tell.









This post has been edited by match220: May 25, 2012 - 11:32 PM

Just finished making a heatshield airbox today. The plastic that I used is from the undercarriage of a mustang and an Evo. I save them and make things from time to time if someone is throwing it away. I mocked up the fit with cardboard first so I could get the spacing under the hood right. Then I cut the pieces out from the shape of the cardboard and put some extra vacuum line around the top to make it look nice. You can't tell from this picture but the two pieces of plastic are riveted together. There is a 1 inch 90 degree lip on the piece parallel with the front of the car that I used to rivet into the other piece that is parallel to the side of the car.

In front of the fuse panel there is a hole that leads to behind the bumper that was used for the factory air intake setup. It fed into the upper airbox. I've taken it out for now. Since the heat from the engine is now kept away from the air intake cool air should be sucked in from the hole in front of the fuse panel and the other hole behind the fender that is also in front of the fuse panel.

nice work so far.... lotta blue hose haha

I know, it was such a tight bend I had to go with the blue hose so I could connect a coupler to the turbo and bend it immediately. As it is right now it barely touches the hood. And I had to use a long coupler to run beside the starter positive and not arc.

nice build man! i hope those bulps are in there good, wouldnt want them to come out and get caught up in the cam gear =/

Those LED's in the cam cover are awesome. Really digging the car.

Thanks..and it's not possible for the bulbs to come loose..I made sure of that. The two legs on the bulbs are sticking through to the outside of the cover and they are bent around and soldered on that side then covered with black silicone.

A close-up of the LEDs in the timing cover and why they won't come loose...since I'm sure people are wondering how I safely did it.

Each LED has two legs coming off of the back side of it, so I drilled two tiny holes in the cover that are wide enough for both legs to stick through. Then I folded each leg in a different direction so that the negative leg of one LED would face the positive leg of the other LED. Each of the LEDs are wired from the outside of the cover and they are all bent so that they don't come loose, and they were positioned so they could be easily wired in series so that they share the 13-14 volts that the alt puts out. As I said earlier, black RTV gasket maker is covering the wires and then it was painted over with truck-bed liner to give it a nice textured look that didn't look like cheesy flat black paint.

The only way I would imagine that they would come loose was if the belt snapped, in which case it won't matter if they get hung in anything.

A picture is worth 1000 words.

Here is the side view of my little air filter heat shield. Also, I found a battery that is the right size so I didn't have to work on a trunk mount battery setup. The battery posts are recessed in the top a little, which I like so I don't have to worry about it arcing on the hood. It is made for a german car, I don't remember which one. I will be making a mount for the bottom of the battery now, and I'm going to put a little fuse box beside the battery that will hold fuses for the new computer, walbro fuelpump, and other little lights around the car. I might even make the fuse panel like a little door with some kill switches underneath.

the newest video (also updated in first post)..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e74ZLAIMW3o

finished all wiring except for connecting power to the coils and to the SM4. Not worrying about the o2 sensor just yet, that's the only wiring that remains other than power and ground.

Connected the walbro fuel pump (walbro gss342 for an mx3)

routed most of the piping to and from the intercooler, used mostly 45 degree bends where I could. Only 3 short 90 degree bends and two long mandrel 90 degree bends.

I had to remove the passenger side radiator fan to make room for the intake tubing, I might put a ton of smaller fans on it later on.



This post has been edited by match220: Jun 23, 2012 - 5:33 AM

beautiful thus far

U need a fabricator!

1 weld = cheaper than 1 silicone and 2 T bolt clamps

welders aren't cheap in hawaii dude..I wish I could have done it that way. I would rather have it welded and not worry about couplers coming loose. And I can weld a little bit, but I wouldn't trust myself on aluminum, and on that note I wouldn't trust any back-yard welders to weld aluminum and make it air tight.

not to mention it was a lot of tight spaces, and paying a welder to figure out how to route the tubing would have costed a lot

what I have been thinking about though is selling the tubing as a FMIC kit for the celica on ebay for like $100, even though I paid around $150 for the stuff. Prior to the sell I could have a welder copy the bends that I made to route it around everything.

This post has been edited by match220: Jun 23, 2012 - 7:09 PM