 ECU help please |
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 Jul 6, 2012 - 12:56 AM
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Enthusiast  Joined Apr 22, '12 From florida Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%)  |
sounds like fun....(Tons of sarcasm implied) If anyone else has an easier way please let me know
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Jul 6, 2012 - 1:26 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined May 13, '06 From Kaimuki, HI Currently Offline Reputation: 10 (100%) |
QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 7:56 PM)  sounds like fun....(Tons of sarcasm implied) If anyone else has an easier way please let me know lol..well, the sucky thing about it is the location of it and how the screws hold in the ECU. The A/C controls are directly above the ECU and they are pretty hard to remove, but even if you did remove them, you wouldn't be able to get to the screws holding in the ECU because they are on the sides facing the passenger and driver side. That's why you have to remove the center console, I suppose you can loosen the center console and try to pry it back far enough to get to the screws, but your body will be twisted and contorted just to where you can see behind the sides of the console and get the screwdriver in there. Someone might know another way but I can't see how it would be easier. -------------------- -Jay
95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other 01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished 02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve |
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Jul 6, 2012 - 5:57 AM
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 Moderator Joined Jun 29, '08 From Denver Currently Offline Reputation: 59 (100%) |
Mine has never been that difficult. I removed the center console and then removed the 10mm bolts that hold the mounting brackets, then pulled it out with the brackets still attached.
The center console puts up a fight the first time but is easy after that. Just take your time, make sure you remove all the screws, then pull. If I recall correctly, it's 2 12mm bolts under the arm rest, a few screws under the shift and radio bezel, then a couple of screws on the sides. The arm rest needs to come completely out and but the glove box and panel in front of the driver's legs can be gently pried out of the way. I think the a/c controls need to come out as well. It sounds complicated but once you see it and do it, it can be done in just a few minutes. This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 6, 2012 - 6:05 AM -------------------- "Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us to use the search button!
 2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage. 1998 Celica GT- BEAMS Swapped. 2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium. 2021 GMC Sierra AT4. |
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Jul 6, 2012 - 7:58 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 11:29 PM) thanks for the reply, now here is an issue i'm facing, ive never taken the ecu out of the celica before. I've done it in other cars. anyone have a DIY on removing the ecu? In the driver and passengerside footwells, next to the glove box and accelerator pedal, the carpet goes underneath the plastic of the dash. Just pull this carpet out of the way and remove the screws holding the ECU in with a stubby screwdriver You dont have to remove the center console, you may as well remove the engine to change the oil. |
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Jul 6, 2012 - 8:50 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Apr 18, '06 From Calgary, Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 37 (100%) |
QUOTE (match220 @ Jul 5, 2012 - 10:39 PM) QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 5, 2012 - 6:29 PM) thanks for the reply, now here is an issue i'm facing, ive never taken the ecu out of the celica before. I've done it in other cars. anyone have a DIY on removing the ecu? in my celica i had a ridiculously hard time just getting the center console out. What I ended up doing is popping off the cover around the radio and the other piece that goes around the shifter, then cutting the two thin plastic pieces in half so I could split the two halves of the center console. You won't be able to notice where it was cut once you put it all back together because the piece around the radio covers it. The pieces that I'm talking about are right in the middle of where the radio and A/C controls go. Once that is cut and the screws are undone that hold it in you can take out one or both of the sides of the center console and it is easier to get to the ECU. Then it's just a matter of getting to the screws that hold it in. If you don't want to cut the center console in half you will probably have to take out the center armrest as well as one of the seats, and then pull the console out that way. Either way, it's hard to get to the ECU. ... or you could just peel back the carpet on the passenger side, unplug the wire harness, and unscrew the ECU mounts from behind the center console...  ... mine just came right out; didn't have to chop anything up to get to it. This post has been edited by KAOS: Jul 6, 2012 - 8:51 AM -------------------- |
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Jul 6, 2012 - 1:50 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 22, '12 From florida Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
Yeah so I got the edu and swapped it, now the car won't turn over, it clicks once and that's it. I'm going to test the battery when the rain dies down
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Jul 6, 2012 - 7:39 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (gotian @ Jul 6, 2012 - 2:50 PM) Yeah so I got the edu and swapped it, now the car won't turn over, it clicks once and that's it. I'm going to test the battery when the rain dies down If a Battery Terminal is loose then when the ignition is turned ON everything while light up normal. However when the key is turned to START the car clicks then totally looses power. Double check your wires at the distributor and the ECU. A loose connection can cause crazy electrical problems. Verify that the Check Engine Light illuminates when the key is turned to ON. This means its getting power. Verify that both ECUs are indeed identical, from vehicles with identical equipment and above all the Distributors are the same. Have the battery tested. You can set it in a trashbag in the trunk of your car and have it Tested and Charged for free at an autoparts store. Wire Brush the battery terminals and put some baking soda on the clamps. My personal rule for battery clamp tightness is that with my thumb and forefinger I should not be able to twist the clamp loose. Oh and always double check your grounds. 
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Jul 7, 2012 - 12:17 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 22, '12 From florida Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
i work at autozone, distributor is new and the same, the ecu is the same. Battery might have died from the door being left open, dont know. But i will be continuing tomorrow.
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Jul 7, 2012 - 7:30 AM
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 Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
can someone show me a picture of obd plugs?
i wanted obd usb cable for my car but i'm told its not obd its toyota proprietry??? -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Jul 7, 2012 - 8:02 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 24, '11 From 704 Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) |
ODBI plug is not only Toyota proprietary, its Celica proprietary. I say this because I went up to the shop the first time my check engine light ever came on and grabbed the Toyota OBDI adapter plug and it will NOT fit because 2 of the terminals are jumped together with a metal jumper bracket that to knowledge doesn't come out. Now don't quote me on that, for all I know the jumper bracket could pull out but I really didn't want to mess with it cause it looked like it was there for good. Lol.
If I'm wrong and it does come out, then you'll need a Toyota OBDI to OBDII adapter. OBDI plugs are proprietary, OBDII are standard. This post has been edited by travisxcore: Jul 7, 2012 - 8:03 PM |
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Jul 7, 2012 - 9:06 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...mp;#entry968098
I have the same connector he has in my engine bay... i have no connectors under the steering wheel or anything like that. mine is a 1996 jdm gtfour model QUOTE (UVZ164 @ May 15, 2012 - 6:49 PM) Hi guys,
I have a 97 ZR model (the Australian GT). I was under the impression that 96+ models were all OBD II, but maybe thats only in America? I was recently trying to find the OBDII port on my car but i couldnt... I looked all under the dash around where the pedals are, on the pass side but nothing. Under the hood theres the diagnostics box infront of where the pass sits (driver for the us guys) i have attached a photo of it.   Is this the OBD I port where I connect the E1 and TE1 terminals and look for flashes inside the car? Can anyone post a pic of their OBDII port just incase im having a seniors moment? Thanks -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Jul 7, 2012 - 9:11 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
so what can i do with that port so i can use a program on my laptop like ECUtalk
can i buy an OBDI cable and hack the connector and manually poke the prongs into my diag port? This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 7, 2012 - 9:14 PM -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
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Jul 9, 2012 - 1:23 AM
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '11 From Haltom City, Texas Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
QUOTE (delusionz @ Jul 7, 2012 - 10:11 PM) so what can i do with that port so i can use a program on my laptop like ECUtalk can i buy an OBDI cable and hack the connector and manually poke the prongs into my diag port? Its really just raw data for diagnostics. You couldnt communicate with the ECU through it if thats what your thinking. |
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Jul 9, 2012 - 3:54 PM
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Enthusiast Joined Apr 22, '12 From florida Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
so after installing the new ecu it would not fire up, just crank. I put the old one back and it fired up but shut off. We put the diagnostic scanner back on and it threw only one code this time. Code 14 no signal to igniter. I have another igniter coming in by wednesday so hopefully thats it, mine looked like something blew up inside and was leaking something from the sides of it, plus all it does is get really hot when I try to crank it.
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