6G Celicas Forums

I apologize if this info is somewhere else, I searched and could not locate what I needed.

I am taking a 3rd gen 3S out of a 97' (ST ODB2) celica and putting it into my 94' (GT ODB1) celica. I have swapped a 3S into a 94' before, but not a 3rd gen and not into a ODB2 car.

Is there any differences in wiring in the engine to an ODB2 car vice the ODB1 car? Will I need to rewire anything or will this be plug and play?

Thanks!

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This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 13, 2012 - 2:04 PM

I dont think you need to do any changes to the wiring, the engine was never made OBD2 so is an OBD1 engine, if anything, the changes were on the OBD2 car, but that wont affect your swap.

is a straight swap from what I can tell.

Thanks Culp
Thats what I was thinking, I just wanted to make sure before I pulled it all out of the car.

so i went to start the car up after swapping in the motor and get power, but it will not crank over when I turn the key.. the clock dims and no power to the starter at all..

Part of me thinks there is an issue with the wiring harness being set up to mate to the interior harness of an ODB1 car and me using it on an ODB2 car... either that or I missed something, but I'm fairly certain everything is plugged in..

thoughts?

from my experience so far, there are slight differences in the chassis side wire harness between obd I and obd II cars. Most notably is the number 12 pin on the EA1 connector. The usdm obdII cars have pin 12 as a ground, whereas the 3sgte harness needs that been for the aux fuel pump relay. I do not believe obd I cars have this problem

pin twelve on here correct?

yup. My '99 st204 has a white/black wire at the pin 12 location, but the 3sgte harness needs a wire coming from the aux relay box in that spot. Luckily there is no problem with unpinning that white/black wire since it is only a ground. I posted a few photos in my swap thread if you need a better look, you can see the wire I'm talking about in one of the pictures:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...mp;#entry974364

So I compared the factory car harness (EA1 plug) from the car the engine was swapped into with the my car its going into and everything checks out on that side of things. This harness doesn't have the relay box that goes on the radiator, so I'm not sure if that changes how the EA1 is wired, but I don't think that is the issue. My next step is to look at the plugs that go into the dash harness next to the ECU..

sounds like a dead battery.
Or a bad starter, bad/loose battery terminals, battery ground not secure.
I really don't think it's the wiring.

Give me a call Jesse.

I have some other questions about your swap too, I think I have some ideas.

This post has been edited by Batman722: Jul 14, 2012 - 10:02 AM

mine was all of the above Jesse, battery was low from sitting otu for a while, starter was bad and had two bad grounds

I'm sure we just figured it out.

Stay tuned, I think Jesse is gonna post an update today

A. Dustin is the man
B. The car runs!
C. for anyone with this problem in the future, my issue was that the car is a manual from the factory, but the car that the motor had been in in the past was an automatic from the factory (converted to manual) so the nuetral start switch wire (same signal as the clutch depressed switch) was in a different spot in the harness. The three plugs that go into the dash harness next to the ECU was where the issue was.. all I had to do was move that black signal wire to the correct spot and shazam the car started right up! Dustin (batman722) was familiar with the different location of this wire and was able to help me sort it all out

Dustin you are a life saver !

This post has been edited by jcbass7: Jul 14, 2012 - 12:07 PM

shhweeett!! atta boy guys!