6G Celicas Forums

Yea I just looked at your profile pics an it looked amazing

I love the lip that was on it

I forgot what transpired but when I swapped in the engine I changed the front since I had it with the engine clip. My plans were to mod the lip to work with the bumper. Jim has the lip and one of my side skirts so looks like my plans are shot.

Edit. I remember I liked the st205 hood over my hood but if I wanted the hood I had to use the bumper so I figured as long as I had my lip I would be happy.

This post has been edited by supershannon77: Jul 16, 2012 - 8:54 PM

Go with a cop an photos of the parts an get them back

Good to see the car is back in its real owners hands.


-Andrew

have you been throwing codes? ie. has your check engine light been blinnking? there is a thread on here somewhere that tells you how to make your car trip the codes. I honestly cant remember. to change your knock sensor should be pretty easy. iirc u have a 3s right? if so your knock sensor is almost dead center on the back of your block. a large socket (19mm iirc) will get it out. hard part is paying the $$$ for a new one. they arent cheap!


sorry i cant remember how to check codes, but hope this points u in the right direction!


and jim needs to be kicked in the babymakers.

Cleans up real well!

No idea on the knock sensor, but I'll dig through my manuals tonight, as I was planning to anyway for my own education.

Or, PM an email address, and I'll send the 3s repair manuals over to ya stat.

knock sensors are a common 3sgte issue. is the engine obdi or obdii... what year is it? i found some good info on this topic awhile back. ill have to dig it up.


i believe it is 27mm, just like the oil switch.

I remember Jim saying he thought the knock sensor was an issue with the wire and not the actually sensor itself, so fingers crossed thats the truth. I'm not sure how soon I will get back over to the car to check it out. The car is at my brothers and they have a baby that can come any minute now. Still, I hope over the weekend I can get over there and wash it nice and check out the knock sensor and take a bunch of pictures maybe check the codes and change out a relay that is preventing the top mount from working.

Also I went back and read a little of my previous and A: I need to edit my typing lol and B: the reason I changed out the front end was because the hood wouldn't close with the top mount on the car.

Shannon!

I never knew Jim had your baby after the split (FB stalking...) but I'm glad to see you have it back; no one deserves that car or good fortune more than you do.

If I were in the area I'd offer some help/labor but all I can provide is a ton of good luck and hope.

^ Stalker

Ok I am going to post some engine pics. I couldn't locate my knock sensor but I didn't try very hard. The car is idling nice and right now no check engine lights I just have to drive it a bit to really see if a light pops up. My engine is very dirty and it wasn't a very clean swap which I'm a little ashamed of but hey, its running so thats what matters. I found some random plugs on hooked hanging out. If you have any ideas what they are that would be nice. Once I can get the car inspected I will be driving it often and looking for any issues it may have.

Also I was unsure if he actually put the heat exchanger on and he did so at least I have that and the high flow pump to go along with the nice turbo kit. (I should had taken nicer shots of the kit)







random plug


another plug


another plug




Oh, their were a few other plugs but I didn't get to get pics of bc I wanted to spend so time few my niece but on off the fan and I think one or two more. Some of which are hooked up but just hanging around not bolted down or anything.

When I first read this I was like

Then I realized what you meant.

Shannon, I wouldn't say your swap isn't clean. It just needs some very minor polishing. Bolt a couple of small things down, drive it, and enjoy it! I know you'll have the car where you want it soon.

the 2nd plug is the level sensor for the IC shannon, no worries about that one, he probably bridged the plug that it goes to, thats what everyone does, you can pull that little rubber cover off, snip off the 2 wires, and put the rubber cover back in place, and be done with it, or leave it if you ever want to convert it back, although chances are the other half of the plug is gone. (still fixable back to stock if you really wanted too tho)
cant really see what the first one is.

if your not throwing any codes, then the knock sensor should be all set, but if you wanna take a look at it, you can get to it from the drivers side of the car, by reaching back and under the intake manifold and feeling down onto the block for it between cylinder 3&4, although i find it easier to access by putting the car up on jack stands and getting to it from under the car, looking up at the back of the block its real easy to see and get to.
if ya do get a code 52, gimme a call, i have a spare i can send out to you.

lets make a plan for you to come up for a weekend, we'll get that bay back in tip top shape like it should be for ya, no problem.
dustin and steff were over last night and we were talking about getting you up here to get ya all fixed up, its a shame jim did you like this.

you guys may have had your diffrences, but this is just some serious bullsh*t that jim is pulling.

::EDIT:: also have washer nozzles here

Ok, I messed around a little with the car. I switched out the relay for the WTA intercooler. I just really am not sure how to tell if the pumps working or not. Is there a sure way to tell? It was late so I didn't drive around but Sunday I will. The top of the intercooler just seemed slightly warm to touch but not hot. Also I thought we wrap the intercooler but I guess we didn't or Jim swapped out the charge coolers. I'm really itching to get this baby back into tip top shape!

def in need of a good wire tucking looking good tho!

ah, so mad but yet so happy for you.
just glad to see that you got it back.

Dunno if you got the knock sensor issue fixed but here is the one I used: http://atsracing.net/Parts/Details/EL-KNOCKSENSOR

Much cheaper than oem toyota and also much better. The toyota knock sensors are notoriously overly sensitive.

They may have been designed overly sensitive for a reason.
And I believe the GM sensor listens on a different frequency.

Dunno if it matters now, but the first plug is for you injector resistor, second plug is your AC VSV [or the EVAP VSV, but IIRC that's on the canister] and the third is the IC level switch.

Glad to see you're taking control of this.

Life always gets too busy. I haven't been able to do much with the car bc of life but my brother has messed around a little.

The car was sitting a few weeks and he went to start it and its dead. A brand new battery. He has been jumping it when he needs. Today he ran it for 2 hrs and drove it around and once he turned the car off it would not start. He thinks its the alternator and it may be but I also think something could be draining the battery. I do know why its drained in the first place.

Its a optima red top relocated to the truck. What things can you guys recommend to check to diagnose?

Last time I was working on the car I couldn't get the IC pump to work so tomorrow or sunday or both ill be messing around again. Any help would be much appreciated!

There's a way to hook up an ammeter in series between the battery and cables, then can see your amperage draw. Then start pulling fuses and watch for the amperage draw to drop.

Thanks, Stevenson came by helped me out. If was not the alternator, the battery was being drained by the W2A intercooler pump which is why that also wasn't working. Looks like ill order that and be back in business. I can't thank Stevenson enough.