6G Celicas Forums

Much thanks sir!

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Some more needed items ordered today. Roughly 200 bucks...

Not sure if Koyo is a great brand, but read plenty of reviews for other vehicles and all have stated positive.

So if its a bad deal, I'll be sure to let you folks know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190466924875?ssP...984.m1423.l2649



If all goes well, that'll save me a few coins, and hassle getting it all in one.

Now to find a water and oil pump, then some seals and I'll be nearly complete....O yea, spark wires, and distributor cap =/

koyo is a very good brand. They make our oem bearings

Ah some good news then!

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This $##@#&% crank pulley bolt!

Using the universal pulley holder, and it ending up bending the thing, and now it just pops out whenever attempting to remove the bolt.

Used a breaker bar with a 4 1/2 foot pole on the end and still nothing.

Not even sure if a impact wrench would have the same luck, unless I buy a chain wrench and find somewhere to brace it. Or buy the SST 09962-01000 kit for 80 bucks...which I'm not looking to invest that much for one damn bolt, but I may not have a choice.

I'm to the point where I don't care if a crank pulley gets damaged from a chain wrench...excuse to buy a shiny new alloy one.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 19, 2012 - 5:47 PM

You tried the starter trick yet?

Would love too, but not really possible with the flywheel, trannie, and starter taken off.

The engine is on a stand pretty disassembled.

I discovered yesterday the threaded holes on the pulley, so going to acquire those bolts, and make them work with my universal puller. If I have too, i'll buy a electric impact just to get this bish off =/

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 20, 2012 - 8:28 AM

If you go that route make sure its a big one
Mine is 160foot pounds an couldn't get the bolt out of my crank pulley

Hmm good to know...I was about to get a lower foot pounds one...There is this one with 220 I might try. Thats if the pole on breaker bar doesn't work method.

Going to put the flywheel back on, and see if I can take the universal holder and put the flywheel bolts through it to hold the crank, then pry the hell out of it with a the breaker and closet pole

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 20, 2012 - 1:15 PM

VICTORY!

Alrighty, my solution was simple, and I'm annoyed I didn't think of this before.

I took a flywheel bolt, and my pry bar. Inserted 1 flywheel bolt nearly all the way, so it didn't damage the threads. Then stuck the prybar in between that and the engine stand mounts where it connects to the case.

Took my steel pole, and breaker bar. Popped right off...i was kind of annoyed how easily it popped off without all the special tools. Just simple thinking...atleast its off and I can move on now!

Time get some shiz done today.



Bolt from hell!


Learning the right tools for the job, make things so simple.




More to come today, as this was my morning run. Get more done once the red bull kicks in, to hot to stay out long.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 21, 2012 - 8:27 AM

Moar progress!



Plugs don't look fouled at all, and I would say she was ran and taken care off pretty well it seems. The oil on the top of the plugs is from the valve cover being just not tight enough, so some of that leaked, but no biggie. The seals are just fine, as well the valve cover gaskets.


Huge sigh of relief once I got this far, everything looks good, no sludge, and no damage. I guess just the outside of the engine looked like a turd that needed some polishing!


Not much I do at this point besides wait on parts to arrive from the UK. Be a couple weeks it seems, for timing belt, tensioner, and pulleys.

I may update later on with some of the petty cosmetics.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 21, 2012 - 10:56 AM

e154f sold yesterday.

Time to do a little shopping, not much, but each dollar returned is a new part.

Interesting enough, Jim asked for my address last night...so maybe I'll be getting my parts, or a restraining order..we'll see soon =P

Bearings and belt came in the other day.

tensioner pulley was not a koyo, but is a NSK. Not exactly what I thought, but it will work, and is still a good bearing. No sounds on either, and smooth spinning. Going to save the old one just incase.

And got these goodies in today as well..



This post has been edited by rave2n: Jul 30, 2012 - 9:38 AM

outstanding work! way to keep at it for sure!
timing systems always look so daunting lol

TY!

Yea, I'm not going to deny working on this side of the engine is a bit...out of my comfort zone. I can turn a wrench or two, but never dug this deep into an engine, much less taken it apart so much. All in all, I'm learning fast, and it doesn't appear as difficult as I first thought.

Did make some progress yesterday.

Removed the oil pan(s) and the cover that goes under the crank so I could remove the oil pickup, to simply remove the oil pump.

Forgot to order a gasket for the oil pump, so I'm on hold waiting for that to arrive from the UK. I thought about just using some flexible high temp gasket, but it just didn't seem like a good idea. I figure if Toyota had a real gasket, I should replace it with a real gasket. Going to spend some time cleaning up all these items I've taken apart so they are nice and shiny when reinstalled. Don't want any leaks after all this work. Want to drop this engine, and not have to worry about that for quite some time.

Did get all my relays in for the IC and FP, so I may start wiring those up this weekend, and do some testing.

Anyone have any tips to get the timing to default? From what I understand, the crank has to be at 0 degrees on the timing cover, and piston one at TDC, I have that all in place, or can simply return it there with 2 spins of the crank. The part i'm worried about it the cam pulleys...when removing the belt, those moved slightly. From what I'm reading, you line those up with a notch that is on the inside of the cam to the head. Basically the pulley itself has a dot on one of the spokes with simply would appear to face all the way to the top from what I'm seeing.

Just trying to avoid having the timing off a tooth or whatever. Any insight would be much appreciated, as once that gasket gets in, everything will be put back together, then it is time to focus on the items in the bay itself.

Cleaning up some items while I wait for 1 gasket!

Forgot to get a picture before the first soak in simple green...half way into the soak.


A bit cleaner today after a rinse, degreaser and some steel wool.



Waiting to be done!

In your words, getting it done. Cool stuff, having your hands that deep in the most important bits. Glad you're gaining knowledge because that **** is about to be put down.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Aug 4, 2012 - 12:54 PM

Lol after this, your swap will be cake =P

I'm almost more excited about seeing your 3S go in...

some of that gunk, can be better handled with pinesol.

http://nighthawk-forums.com/tools-and-equi...egreaser-topic/