6G Celicas Forums

GREAT stuff man!! i will be hitting him up at the end o the summer! i KNOW imma need some really soon! it is definately a MUST for any swapped driver!! i remember posting about these like 2 years ago when my bushings went to $#!T... Toyota got me for a couple hundred dollars buying the entire control arm!

This post has been edited by easternpiro1: Jul 12, 2009 - 9:00 PM

since you have to use grease on the sway bar bushings that are made of polyurethane. Will these start to making noise after 10,000 miles???

not if you use the right kind of grease.

I'm getting ready to replace my front bushings and I'm just trying to make sure I have everything I need before I get started.



In this diagram, is the sleeve part #90389‑21003?

don't bother replacing the sleeve (or crash tube as I've heard it called).
It slides in from the top which means you have to remove (or at least lower a lot) your sub frame.

I bought new ones from the dealer but I didn't replace them, they're completely useless.

Good deal. I saw Manny's post and started wondering if, like the rears, I should get all new nuts and bolts. In that case, I might try to knock these out tomorrow morning and do the rears next week.

the oem crash tubes are about 2mm thick if that. Doesn't the front polyurethane bushings come with grey 3-4mm crash tubes. At least it seems that way in the pictures.

From what I saw today, the crash tube goes through the center of the bushing, through the center of the metal insert in the poly bushing. I didn't get as far as I would have liked... I spent four hours struggling with rounded nuts on the driver side ball joint and a broken nut inside the subframe. I'll check it out more tomorrow.

broken nut in the subframe?

I had the nut inside the car's frame rail (that holds the subframe on) break off. Had to cut my floor pan open

I phrased that poorly. I had a nut inside the subframe break off, not break. The bolt in the lower control arm that runs parallel to the ground, the nut inside the subframe broke away from the subframe. I had to, regrettably, cut the subframe open. Tomorrow I'm welding a new piece of metal in place to close it back up. It beats buying a new subframe.

you should just bring these things to ohio.... LOL nothing wrong with 5 celicas and 3 beams in the garage at once bro

When dropping the subframe for the race car, 3 of the bolts on each side go int o the frame rail.... one bolt threads into a welded nut that is just welded to some thin sheet metal that has a high tendancy to rust out... that welded nut snapped off the sheet metal on each side, not a big deal cause its a track car and the other three bolts go into FRAME instead of just sheet metal.... prolly won't even put it back in.... dunno if this is the bolt you're talking about or not

I got started on my bushings Monday afternoon. Within 30 minutes, I had hit huge snags. The bolt on the driver's side that runs parallel to the ground refused to come out, the lower ball joint nuts had rounded off, and the end links, in their usual fashion, stripped out. Turns out that like I mentioned in my last post, the nut inside the subframe had broken free of the subframe and was spinning freely with the bolt. After 4 hours of trying, I put things back together as well as I could and drove to where I work to use their shop. Driving with a loose bolt in my control arm was a bit nerve racking. Not because the car was uncontrollable, but because it was so strangely normal. I knew there was a problem underneath the car but I couldn't feel it from the driver's seat. Then a bunch more stuff happened that I can skip because it's boring and involved lots of dollars being spent, so I'll just get to the pictures because that's what we're all here for anyway.

Rear bushing on the driver's side wasn't really a part of the control arm anymore. It fell out with no effort whatsoever.




This is the ring around the rear bushing that has been discussed before. I didn't even try to press the new bushing in before taking these out, but I had access to a die grinder that made the removal of these rings very easy.


And a picture of the bushings installed.



Due to Murphy's Law hitting me hard, the total time I had to spend on this job was 12 hours. Yeah, 12 hours for a four hour job at most. Let's just say that nothing went properly for me.

The steering definitely feels tighter now than it did before. I currently have no front sway bar end links so I haven't been pushing the car hard, nor have I launched hard to feel the difference yet. Once I get the new end links, I'll do a bit more testing and see how much better these are.

twosrus are fine for the front, usually a quick shipper too.

Nice hole in your subframe

Thanks! Yeah, it was a PITA. What's worse is by the time I got the passenger side done, I forgot to have one of the other guys weld a new piece of steel over the hole to seal the subframe back up. It's rust waiting to happen until I get it fixed.

Oh dang look at that hole! What a bummer, but good stuff on getting the new bushings in there!

Luckily, i have brand new control arms in the mail and the bushings as well, so doing it before ever being in the car FTW

It seems like lots of people had problems changing these out.
Was a pain in the ass when I did mine too, took a couple days to get it done.

nothing like a good hole, where did u get the parts from?

I got mine from Paul in Poland, the GT4 Racing bushings. I got mine from eBay though, not his website.

http://myworld.ebay.com/gt4goodies/

I've been trying to get a hold of the US distributor on celicatech but have never got a reply. it seems he hasn't been online in over 2 months.

Yeah, I gave up on RdRkt. Same story for me, simply no replies.