6G Celicas Forums

I changed my oil about 2 weeks ago, checked it today...empty. ? Is there a common area that these cars leak oil from? I have only had the car about a month. I park in a dirt drive, but Ii haven't noticed anything.

GT or ST? GT's are known to have leaky valve cover gaskets that drip all over the back of the engine, and ST's have been known to burn oil. You probably wouldn't notice any leaking oil in your driveway unless you left the car running for a little while. I assume you haven't noticed the car smoking at all?

It's a GT. Thanks for the info. I will check that.

Dont forget about the distributor seal as well on the 5s.

I have an St and mine burns, by 3000 miles I have maybe 2 quarts left after filling it with one quart d=-(

from the cam side, valve cover gasket, distributor side, main seal

This post has been edited by trdproven: Aug 26, 2012 - 6:16 PM

My ST is leaking - from the sump (oil pan). Best to get the car on ramps and have a good look underneath. It also helps to remove the plastic eundercover for the engine.

Oil pump seals will just absolutely PISS oil at an amazing rate when driving, barely leak when idling, and then leak NOTHING when the engine is off, and they're very common to leak on the 5S-FE.

The other symptoms of the oil pump seal being bad is that-
It will continue to drip for a while as it runs out the timing cover
The oil light will stay on a long time when you start the vehicle because the pump loses its prime.

Talking about the dizzy. Mine is leaking and my car isn't starting as good as it has before. One time it cranked and just died. I'm thinking it could be because of the dizzy having oil leak. I'm going to be changing it some time this week but I never removed a dizzy before? Anyone know if there's a how to guide somewhere?

On the 5s there are two 12mm bolts holding the distributor to the cylinderhead. Standing in front of the car one bolt is underneath the dist. on the front and one is one the top-backside of the distributor.

There are two plugs that have to be undone, a 2 wire plug for the coilpack and a 3 or 4 wire ug for the cam sensor.

Make sure to take the cap and rotor off first, because you need to remember which direction the rotor is pointing!

you might have to make room by removing some intake parts but IDK havent had a stock intake for a while. Then you can access the north and south bolts of the distributor. you need to make sure you mark in case you need to put it back in the same place. but the distributor has the cap on it that is removed by just like a screw driver, and then the rotor is inside. inspect it as well.

I found a write up on how to replace a 5sfe dizzy leak from a MR2. It should be the same right? And also is it safe to clean with wd40 instead of the brake cleaner? Yes I know it's not safe at all but you get what I mean. Lol.

http://www.mr2.com/forums/non-turbo-engine...html#post529156

EDIT: NVM I sucked it up and did it. I guess it's easier done than said. Lol. So while I was replacing I found some oil inside the dizzy. It was very little though. Probable like 2 drops of oil only. I'm pretty sure the internal o ring needs replacement too but hopefully the external will prevent most of the external oil leaks.

This post has been edited by ILoveMySilly97: Aug 29, 2012 - 11:22 PM

Check the resistance on the ignition coil and pickup coil while you have it apart.

I know on my ST before the engine went,

the thing would lose a good amount of oil in a few days, no clear oil spots on the drive way. well when i pulled the engine to put the 3s in, it came pouring out of the transmission. the rear main went out on me. also explained why the clutch started to slip bad after only a year.

Good luck.
Kevin