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> Tip for fixing Yellowing Headlights
post Sep 5, 2012 - 9:30 PM
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krom8



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I know that our Celica's headlight don't yellow but I've got a Corolla that did. I bought a cleaner kit made just for this problem which cost $10 but it didn't work . I ended up getting them clean with toothpaste. The plain white Crest tooth paste seems to work best. All you do is put some on a paper towel and buff the headlight with it then wipe it off with a clean towel or paper towel. They look like new headlights. Hope this helps someone else on here.

This post has been edited by krom8: Sep 5, 2012 - 9:31 PM


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post Sep 5, 2012 - 9:33 PM
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Box



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I find a product called Blue Magic to work well too.


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post Sep 5, 2012 - 9:42 PM
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Akirad1



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i bought the turtle wax headlight restore kit it comes with little sand paper pads but make sure not to get that stuff on your paint it will eat the clear coat away


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post Sep 5, 2012 - 9:50 PM
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Rubbing compound seems to work well too.


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post Sep 6, 2012 - 1:44 AM
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Hanyo

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1500 grit sand paper.
2000 grit sand paper
rubbing compound
polishing compound.

then wax the head light with your every day car wax with every wash.
post Sep 6, 2012 - 5:44 AM
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smkr3w



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QUOTE (Hanyo @ Sep 5, 2012 - 11:44 PM) *
1500 grit sand paper.
2000 grit sand paper
rubbing compound
polishing compound.

then wax the head light with your every day car wax with every wash.

This.

My roommate and I, came across a guy looking for work, said he could fix the yellow/haze on my roommates car.
and in like 15 min had them super clear with a little bit of wet sanding, rubbing compound and a buffer!


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post Sep 6, 2012 - 8:19 AM
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Special_Edy



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I usually start at 400 grit, then 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, medium cut buffing compound, rubbing compund, polishing compund then wax.

Basically your lowest grit needs to be used the most, because its removing the layar of crap. All the rest of it is just trying to fix the scratches you made with sandpaper.
post Sep 6, 2012 - 8:54 AM
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Nihil



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I think 400 grid paper is to raw for headlights... 800 is the lowest grid I'd use, followed by 1000, 1500, 2000 and then, if acquirable, finish with 3000 grid. Do each sanding in straight moves, no circular sanding, and each grid paper in cross work (800 horizontal, 1000 vertical, 1500 horizontal...).
Keep the surface wet when sanding, water in a sprayer comes most useful.

For polishing until clear you need a paste for polishing plastic (some even say headlights), and you just polish it off until clear... Some even do this with tooth paste, but I've never tried that.


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post Sep 6, 2012 - 10:47 AM
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kurt95gt



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I just use a red scotchbright pad an a can of clear coat


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post Sep 6, 2012 - 11:59 AM
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Special_Edy



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I cleaned both headlights, they both looked like the passenger side but now they are both clean. Wet sanded with 400 grit, then 600, then 800, then 1000, then 1500, then 2000, then medium cut buffingh compound, then rubbing compound, next polishing compound and finally buffed it with wax.


You could use 80 grit sandpaper or whatever if you wanted but you have to step up the grits to get the surface perfectly smooth. You probably want an 800 or grittier to start wirth though because your first rough sanding is what actually removes the old, oxidized plastic and then your just trying to make the surface smooth again. If you dont remove enough material at first then it wont look perfect when its done.
Oh and tape off the paint around the headlight because all these abrasives WILL f*ck your paint up if you oversand or buff.
Another tip, place a garden hose over the headlight with just a trickle coming out. it will clean as you sand and lubricate the sandpaper.

This post has been edited by Special_Edy: Sep 6, 2012 - 12:06 PM

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